4mm Unnamed freight only shunting layout

[Allen M]

Dropper wires, for many years I have used the same method particularly on plastic track. The dropper is a short bit of domestic lighting cable stripped of insulation. Drill a just big enough hole down through the base board about 1/16in (1.5mm) from the rail. This can be the opposite to the viewing side. Now take your bit of thick wire and bend a upside 'L' shape the leg being long enough to reach from the hole under the rail. Thread through hole and turn end under rail. If it slips down put a bit of card/wood between board and leg to support. Touch of flux, in and out quick with a hot iron, good joint and no damage to plastic. If the 'L' lag was over length it can now be cut off. Once ballast and weathering complete will be invisible. It is now easy to join up the other wiring from the under side only as normal 'layout' flexible wire can be twisted to the leg and will hold itself in place for soldering.
Hope this helps
Regards
Allen Morgan

 

[simond]

I agree with Allen’s comments, however as an alternative, solder the dropper to the bottom of a Peco fishplate, you can do that without the fishplate being attached to the rail. No risks to the plastic sleepers, but of course, you will be reliant on the contact between fishplate and rails. Indoors, I’d very much doubt there will be any issue.

 

[matto21]

Thanks for all the comments, especially about soldering wires to rail.

I managed, but it won't win any prizes in the annual "best soldered joint" championship. If I had to describe my soldering technique, it'd be something like trying to paint fine detail using a paint roller!

I'm sure I'm not helped by having a shoddy, cheap soldering iron, but as it's something I do so rarely, I'm reluctant to buy a better one!

What do people recommend for fixing track down - I don't want to use pins, so it'd need to be glue. I've read about various options including Copydex, PVA, Superglue and Evostick. Not having any recent experience, what's the general consensus?

Matt

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Ha-ha - one of those questions - ask 10 people and you'll get 20 answers.

From my own experience I've used both PVA and Copydex. In either case I've spread a thin layer of glue, laid the track (ensuring no glue seeps up into the point mechanisms) and then weighted the ensemble until set.

PVA does vary in quality and I generally use Everbuild 502 (which starts setting after 10 minutes but leaves ample time for minor adjustments). PVA also has the advantage should you decide to remove the track at a later date it can be released with boiling water!

I've also seen Model Railroader articles where 'No Nails' has been used. Apply a bead down the track centreline, even out thinly with a spreader then plonk the track down. However, I haven't tried this yet.

Your little layout is progressing nicely - best way to start. Something small which you are able to complete and use as test bed for various techniques to find out and develop those you become comfortable with .


The notes below regarding Superglue and Evostick are from my own brief on-line searches and other correspondents may have differing opinions.

I would be very reluctant to use Superglue given the pourous nature of the surface on which you are sticking the track to, the poor adhesiveness on plastics and more importantly the potential health hazards by using what would appear to me to be a large quantity (more than the usual few drops from a tube). A copy of the Henkel data sheet from RS is here.

Personally I would avoid Evostick contact adhesives as their solvent based version can melt certain plastics and both solvent and solvent-free gives off fumes - best used in well ventilated areas. In either case the Evostick contact adhesives require leaving until becoming touch dry before bringing both prepared surfaces together. Once brought together there is no (or very little) room for adjustment. Evostick solvent free impact adhesive data sheet. Evostick solvent based impact adhesive data sheet.

 

[matto21]

Ha-ha - one of those questions - ask 10 people and you'll get 20 answers.

From my own experience I've used both PVA and Copydex. In either case I've spread a thin layer of glue, laid the track (ensuring no glue seeps up into the point mechanisms) and then weighted the ensemble until set.

PVA does vary in quality and I generally use Everbuild 502 (which starts setting after 10 minutes but leaves ample time for minor adjustments). PVA also has the advantage should you decide to remove the track at a later date it can be released with boiling water!

I've also seen Model Railroader articles where 'No Nails' has been used. Apply a bead down the track centreline, even out thinly with a spreader then plonk the track down. However, I haven't tried this yet.

Your little layout is progressing nicely - best way to start. Something small which you are able to complete and use as test bed for various techniques to find out and develop those you become comfortable with .


The notes below regarding Superglue and Evostick are from my own brief on-line searches and other correspondents may have differing opinions.

I would be very reluctant to use Superglue given the pourous nature of the surface on which you are sticking the track to, the poor adhesiveness on plastics and more importantly the potential health hazards by using what would appear to me to be a large quantity (more than the usual few drops from a tube). A copy of the Henkel data sheet from RS is here.

Personally I would avoid Evostick contact adhesives as their solvent based version can melt certain plastics and both solvent and solvent-free gives off fumes - best used in well ventilated areas. In either case the Evostick contact adhesives require leaving until becoming touch dry before bringing both prepared surfaces together. Once brought together there is no (or very little) room for adjustment. Evostick solvent free impact adhesive data sheet. Evostick solvent based impact adhesive data sheet.

Thanks Dave, I'm erring towards PVA simply because I cannot stand the smell of Copydex!

You're probably right with regards Superglue and Evostick, especially given the foamboard base, I've just seen it suggested elsewhere a couple of times.

Progress is likely to slow again now - I have a plan to further visually improve my Peco points but will have to wait until I have a bit more time!

Matt

 

[simond]

If you’re planning on granite clippings, PVA can turn them green-ish. I stick my track panels down with the odd blob of blue bottle Evo-stik wood adhesive and get it all wired and working, and then ballast with watered-down (about 50-50) latex, I bought a 2.5 litre plastic bottle of Mapei stuff from Screwfix years back, and I’m still using it.

If I’m building track in situ (I generally avoid this) I’d stick the sleepers down with blue Evo, stick one chaired rail down (MEK) and once it has set, gauge the other from it and stick down with MEK, then ballast with the watered-down Mapei.

I’d definitely not use superglue for the same reasons as Dave gives. You could use Evo-stik contact glue in non-contact mode, but I’d only use the odd drop here or there, and I can’t really see what you’d need it for. It’ll only grab once the solvent has evaporated.

So there you are, two responses and 5 recommended adhesives...

 

[76043]

I used no more nails with Peco styrene based track (streamline points and setrack straights) on blue foam, not the flexitrack base which is an oily plastic. I tried recently to shift some two years after gluing and it was going to trash the blue foam, so I gave up on that idea.

Tony

 

[Phil O]

When I glued down the tandem turnout timbers on Pottery Quay I ash ballasted at the same time. I had previously marked where the rails went with a paint pen, just a small blob that would be covered by a chair.

 

[Alan]

I used Copydex because of you do have to lift the track, there is no damage either to the track of underlay/baseboard.

 

[matto21]

Thanks for all the suggestions - PVA or Copydex it is!

Would people be so kind as to recommend soldering irons? I've come to the conclusion that part of the difficulty I've had is down to a rubbish iron! I know nothing about soldering at all: I don't want to spend a lot of money on something I'll only use occasionally, but when I do, I want something a bit better!

 

[garethashenden]

I do virtually all of my soldering with an Antex 25W iron with a chisel tip. I have it plugged into a temperature controlled station left over from another iron that didn't live very long. The temperature control is nice for soldering whitemetal, but not necessary for anything else.

 

[matto21]

Hi all,

As mentioned on page 1, I'm using a combination of Peco Bullhead track and Code 75 points.

I also said that I'm not really happy with way the points look when used alongside the plain track. As I lack the time and inclination to build track, I've decided to do what I can to improve the overall look. These modifications have been done before, so this isn't necessarily new ground though!

First up, a photo of an unmodified point:




I've replaced the chairs with C&L ones, cut in half. I've only done the side that's visible, and there's a few compromises to ensure stock continues to run smoothly.



I've also replaced the sleepers each side of the tiebar with some leftover Peco Bullhead ones. Again, not perfect, but better than the original.



Overall it's pretty time consuming and fiddly, but the resulting improvement, visually, is worth it (I hope)!



Matt

 

[Lancastrian]

If you don't wish to go down the Evostick route, I've used UHU which allows for adjustment and you only need to coat one surface.

Ian

 

[Tappa]

Matt - what are you using to move the points? If you are using slow action motors, then you can massively improve the appearance of the points by removing the spring and all the bits that go with it. I did that on my last layout when I used Code 75 points.

Jeff

 

[matto21]

Matt - what are you using to move the points? If you are using slow action motors, then you can massively improve the appearance of the points by removing the spring and all the bits that go with it. I did that on my last layout when I used Code 75 points.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Points are manually controlled using wire in the tube. Not sure if I could remove any more bits.

Matt

 

[matto21]

After a mammoth tracklaying session (!), all track is down - I ended up using Copydex.



The two track types look OK together in my humble opinion.

Matt

 

[MartinWales]

Hmmm, you've been busy!

 

[NHY 581]

Splendid.

 

[matto21]

Hello all,

I've been trying to work on some of the buildings that I'll need, although I don't really have any fixed ideas yet.

I've knocked this corrugated tin store/shed up from SE Finecast sheets and a few other bits and bobs.

Now it's finished, I'm not really sure if I even like it too much, but I did enjoy building and painting it!











Matt

 

[NHY 581]

What a smashing little building Matt. Full of character.