richard carr
Western Thunderer
Hi Dave
Where did you get all the cardan shaft bits from please.
Thanks
Richard
Where did you get all the cardan shaft bits from please.
Thanks
Richard
Yorky D's Küchentisch - North Eastern - a bit more progress
- Thread starter Yorkshire Dave
- Start date
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard
They came from Roxey Mouldings - I found them listed in their 4mm parts. Just type Universal into their search box.
4MA076 Universal Joint for 2mm Shaft
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I have a couple of Mashima 1428 motors and Branchlines gearboxes in with mine which probably gives an idea as to how long I have had the kit.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
The NER ES1 instructions include (to me) a scant paragraph relating to the pantograph - in short there are four options...
1. Build up etches as a dummy pantograph in raised position
2. Build up etches as a dummy pantograph in lowered position
3. Use a non-prototypical HO Sommerfeldt operating version
4. Make up etches as an operational model
And no prizes for the option muggins went for
Hey presto! - an operating version.....
Quite simply the instructions went out of the window and I turned to previous experience based on the 7mm Harton Colliery Siemens Elok (below).
The NER ES1 pantograph (below) is not sprung in the conventional style (above) as the base is too short to include a hidden linkage to prevent the who ensemble rocking when in the raised position. It took alot of work as I cut off the dummy springs from the etch, made up upper arm end hooks from scrap etch and used four springs I had in stock.
This is a cruel crop from a photo on t'nterweb
And to prove it does work...
For a sense of scale here it is in between an O scale DB and a HO SBB pantograph.
Having seen my photos, with hindsight I'm tempted to alter the upper arm spring hooks in order to extend them but as it currently works it may be best left alone. Just need to work on a locking mechansim for the lowered position. On the prototype the pantograph was raised and lowered by an insulated hand operated rod through the cab roof.
1. Build up etches as a dummy pantograph in raised position
2. Build up etches as a dummy pantograph in lowered position
3. Use a non-prototypical HO Sommerfeldt operating version
4. Make up etches as an operational model
And no prizes for the option muggins went for
Hey presto! - an operating version.....
Quite simply the instructions went out of the window and I turned to previous experience based on the 7mm Harton Colliery Siemens Elok (below).
The NER ES1 pantograph (below) is not sprung in the conventional style (above) as the base is too short to include a hidden linkage to prevent the who ensemble rocking when in the raised position. It took alot of work as I cut off the dummy springs from the etch, made up upper arm end hooks from scrap etch and used four springs I had in stock.
This is a cruel crop from a photo on t'nterweb
And to prove it does work...
For a sense of scale here it is in between an O scale DB and a HO SBB pantograph.
Having seen my photos, with hindsight I'm tempted to alter the upper arm spring hooks in order to extend them but as it currently works it may be best left alone. Just need to work on a locking mechansim for the lowered position. On the prototype the pantograph was raised and lowered by an insulated hand operated rod through the cab roof.
NER ES1
New
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Further developments...
The 6 panels (2, cab ends, 2 sides and 2 bonnet/hood covers) were made up. The laminates were soldered using a blowtorch and the bonnet/hood covers were formed after annealing the half etch lines. This still resulted in a slightly multi faceted curve which I gently removed with a file. All the external details such as the handrails, vents and sand box covers were added before assembling the body.
Before adding the sand box covers on the bonnet/hood covers I drilled out a hole to aid soldering. In addition I also drilled out the coupling socket on the internal bufferbeam to take a couplung spring.
Of the additional external buffer beam detail the electric socket is a casting from Precision Scale I had in my 1/48 US parts.
The pantograph.... The lower arm etches have teeth which if built up as non-functional are fine as they do not engage.
However as I made mine functional I squeezed the two supports (blue) together to make the teeth (red) engage. This has greatly increased the stability of the structure and reduced the fore and aft motion of the pantograph so the head remains level whilst touching the contact wire thereby allowing for variations in the contact wire height. Later diamond pantographs have a wider base which allows for a link arm to be installed as base level to prevent the fore and aft motion and keep the structure stable.
While I was tinkering with the pantograph I also added two catches (one on each side) so it can be locked down.
On the prototype the pantograph is raised manually by an insulated rod fixed centrally to the pantograph head and through the cab roof. It's absence is a compromise I've made (thus far) as I have made the pantograph removable with a central screw.
The 6 panels (2, cab ends, 2 sides and 2 bonnet/hood covers) were made up. The laminates were soldered using a blowtorch and the bonnet/hood covers were formed after annealing the half etch lines. This still resulted in a slightly multi faceted curve which I gently removed with a file. All the external details such as the handrails, vents and sand box covers were added before assembling the body.
Before adding the sand box covers on the bonnet/hood covers I drilled out a hole to aid soldering. In addition I also drilled out the coupling socket on the internal bufferbeam to take a couplung spring.
Of the additional external buffer beam detail the electric socket is a casting from Precision Scale I had in my 1/48 US parts.
The pantograph.... The lower arm etches have teeth which if built up as non-functional are fine as they do not engage.
However as I made mine functional I squeezed the two supports (blue) together to make the teeth (red) engage. This has greatly increased the stability of the structure and reduced the fore and aft motion of the pantograph so the head remains level whilst touching the contact wire thereby allowing for variations in the contact wire height. Later diamond pantographs have a wider base which allows for a link arm to be installed as base level to prevent the fore and aft motion and keep the structure stable.
While I was tinkering with the pantograph I also added two catches (one on each side) so it can be locked down.
On the prototype the pantograph is raised manually by an insulated rod fixed centrally to the pantograph head and through the cab roof. It's absence is a compromise I've made (thus far) as I have made the pantograph removable with a central screw.