7mm MOK BR Standard 4MT Tank

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by P A D, 14 May 2018.

  1. Dog Star

    Dog Star Western Thunderer

    Ken (@farnetti), you have made mention of concerns with crank pin bushes in the past and I have not understood what is giving you problems. Sorry to ask about what parts you are using, we are having problems with the S7 wheels and crank pin nuts / return cranks for our MOK BR 4MT and your experiences may assist me to find a solution which works for us.

    What is the source of the coupled wheels for your model? (for example:- S7 wheels from S7 Group Stores... re-profiled FS wheels from Slaters);

    What is the source of the crank pins? (for example:- MOK... Slaters... Derek Mundy (from MSE ?)... S7 Group Stores);

    What is the source of the crank pin nuts? (BA nuts... CPL castings... MOK... comes with Slaters / Mundy crank pins).

    Of course, if anyone else has used the S7 wheels from the S7 Group Stores for their MOK BR 4MT model then your contribution to these questions shall be received gratefully.

    thank you and regards, Graham
  2. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    Hi Ken,
    Good to hear that you have the parts to continue your build.

    As to the stubs on the water gauges, the answer is no they should not be there. At least looking at the ones on 80002. That's how they come in the kit and until now I hadn't realised they were wrong. In fact I think the pipe that the stubs are on should not be there either but I'll investigate that further and consider if I can remove them.

    You may still beat me to the finish as mine is still not painted. In recent times I have got out of the habit of painting my locos before starting the next. Currently the A3, A4, 4MT are built but not painted and I'm well advanced building the David Andrews Stanier 2 6 4, with a Gladiator Stanier Mogul to follow.

    Rob Pulham likes this.
  3. farnetti

    farnetti Western Thunderer

    Thanks Peter, I will be removing them tomorrow and continuing with the cab interior while I try to remember, again, how the chassis all works.

    I keep putting off painting stuff, not something I am confident about. I cannot afford to get it done professionally and will have to get around to it one day.

    Anyway thanks again a will probably be back when I run into other fogginess.

    All the best,

  4. farnetti

    farnetti Western Thunderer

    Hi Graham,

    I bought wheels from S7 stores and crank pins from MOK. My problems have been purely that MOK originally supplied the wrong crank pins in the first instance. I tried to modify these but my skills were not up to the job hence the wait. It was my decision not to use Slaters crank pins.

    There have been absolutely no problems with the S7 wheels supplied by the Society stores.

    I would like to add that MOK have been very apologetic for the unusually prolonged delay for the replacements, which were outside of their control.

    Hope this answers your concerns.

    All the best, Ken
  5. chigley

    chigley Member

    farnetti likes this.
  6. chigley

    chigley Member

    hello simon, nice build, what size tender wheels are used, according to the data sheet they were 3ft 3 1/2 "
  7. SimonT

    SimonT Western Thunderer

    That is what the RCTS book replicates on an official weight diagram. I didn't measure the model ones but just installed them;).
  8. chigley

    chigley Member

    thanks simon. slaters list 3ft 2" so i suppose thats close enough.

  9. chigley

    chigley Member

    just heard from dave MOK 9f is in the post, and the tender wheels slaters 7839br