Cookie's Workbench - 7/8ths Alan Keef K40

[Simon Dunkley]

Joking apart, I think that models in G1 acquire a "presence" that even 7mm doesn't achieve. This is particularly true for smaller prototypes, a single wagon in 1/32 is a very satisfying "thing" just in itself.

I remember some bugger having an open wagon with him at a show in the South West. Got me into all sorts of distractions, did that.

Who was it again, some idiot with a bookshop?

 

[Steve Cook]

Not sure if I'm blurring the lines a bit with this thread being in 'Western Region', but I'm quite keen for my workbench thread to reflect the 'Scattergun' approach my modelling generally takes.

Apart from a bit of 'touring', workbench time has been its usual chaotic self. Another couple of Parkside kits (clay wagon and 12T van) have been assembled for my EM adventure, but its rained ever since they were completed so I've not even got as far a priming them yet, hence no photos. The Guage 3 wagon has had more weathering applied and is finally assembled, I just haven't taken any photos of it yet.

The 'major' project this weekend was to actually start an S scale kit. I've been a member of the society for a couple of years now, but I've never actually built anything. I have assembled a small collection of unbuilt kits, and have even bought a small layout (Stroudley Green by Maurice Hopper), but S scale has always been shelved a bit because of other projects that have been on the go. With some of those projects nearing completion (and fancying a bit of brass bashing for a change from plastic / resin), an LNER Y7 kit made it out of the gloat box and onto the bench. The basic etches were bought sometime last year, and whilst at Warley this year, I remembered to buy some suitable wheels and crankpins. A set of hornblocks were found in the parts box (they need boring out to the correct axle size), a chimney from the S scale society parts store and some milled frames and rods complete the bits. I still need to purchase motor, gearbox, handrail knobs and various other odds and sods, but my thinking is that by building the body, I'll have a better idea of what size motor and flywheel will fit.

All the bits laid out on the bench

 

[Simon Dunkley]

There is more cleaning up to do, but I'm sick of getting bits of fibreglass stuck in my fingers.

Use "Scotchbrite" cleaning pads. Nothing heavy duty, just the basic ones from a DIY store.

PS - I saw this part assembled loco, and Steve has done a characteristically clean and square job of assembling it.

 

[Graham Powell]

Very nice work. Wish I could get mine as clean!.
rgds
Graham Powell

 

[Neil]

Use "Scotchbrite" cleaning pads. Nothing heavy duty, just the basic ones from a DIY store.

PS - I saw this part assembled loco, and Steve has done a characteristically clean and square job of assembling it.

Good tip, ....  and  ..... hasn't he just. Modelmaking that sharp always make me slightly envious. I can do the arty stuff ok and I'm quite good at camouflaging the wonky bits but trully crisp stuff always eludes me. Still it's good to have something to aim at as my laurels aren't big enough to rest on yet.

 

[Simon Dunkley]

Good tip, ....  and  ..... hasn't he just. Modelmaking that sharp always make me slightly envious. I can do the arty stuff ok and I'm quite good at camouflaging the wonky bits but trully crisp stuff always eludes me. Still it's good to have something to aim at as my laurels aren't big enough to rest on yet.

Things like Scotchbrite are really good for getting rid of the last vestiges of solder from a joint. (Although some people simply smoke them.) To get the worst off, I use a broken Vee shaped needle file, which has been re-ground, as a scraper. The real secret is to find out just how little solder is required, which is somethign Steve mentioned to me: this was before the wine was opened, so it must be true.

The other thing I have used the Scotchbrite for is to wipe hot solder away from a surface that has just been tinned, whilst it is still molten. Takes a bit of practice, and you need to be quick, but it is very effective. Applying flux to two tinned surfaces, and then the iron, can produce a pretty effective joint with minimal cleanign required.

But, prior to that, I think the really important thing is that Steve spent several hours filing off the cusp and tabs, to provide a nice square edge. Draw filing (clapm the metal in a plain-jaw vice, and/or between some pieces of ply, then move the file sideways along the edge - do not more it fore and aft) works best for me when doing this. It requires a nice, gentle action without too much pressure.

 

[Steve Cook]

Cheers for the comments Gents  Photos can tend to flatter a bit though...

Use "Scotchbrite" cleaning pads. Nothing heavy duty, just the basic ones from a DIY store.

Good tip mister  Been using it with a pair of tweezers on the Ruston chassis, certainly less annoying than the fibreglass pencil, if not quite so quick. Fine for the last little bit, but not one to start with 

Steve

 

[iploffy]

I will have to get some Scotchbrite pads as I am sick of picking bits of fibre glass out of my feet good tip
Ian

 

[Simon Dunkley]

Photos can tend to flatter a bit though...

We will all bear that in mind when we next see your mugshot in a photo...

Good tip mister  Been using it with a pair of tweezers on the Ruston chassis, certainly less annoying than the fibreglass pencil, if not quite so quick. Fine for the last little bit, but not one to start with 

Well, it depends on how much wasted soler you spread all over the place to begin with...

In truth, it is not as a gressive as the glass fibre brush, and takes longer, but as indicated: use a scraper made from an old triangular or vee-file (or you can buy one, but the angles need to be less than 90deg) to get rid of the worst, then finish it off with the scotchbrite. The scraper should be used firmly but not too heavily.

And before anyone thinks of me in connection with this advice, it was given to me by Trevor Nunn, and railway modellers don't get any better than that.

 

[Steve Cook]

Well, it depends on how much wasted soler you spread all over the place to begin with...

Cheeky b*gger 

The real secret is to find out just how little solder is required, which is somethign Steve mentioned to me: this was before the wine was opened, so it must be true.

Delayed quoting maybe, but that is, in my opinion, the difference between the act of soldering, and the art of soldering. I'm learning the act OK, the art is defeating me - hence the fibreglass bits all over the bench 

 

[28ten]

I actually find that an old file is too aggressive and can damage the brass, so I favour using scrap brass filed to form a scraper. It's just as effective but it won't damage the model

 

[28ten]

Hi Cynric :wave:

That's a good tip

I saw that Darren Sherwood Jones was using some nice scrapers - ?65+ a set - so I wrote to the supplier in question to order them as 'individuals' (I only wanted two types/sizes) as they were listed as such - they never got back to me :scratch:

CME :wave:

IMHO a wast of money that could be spent on a better iron. I very rarely use a glassfibre brush, because I do everything to avoid excess solder.

 

[Neil]

....  some nice scrapers - ?65+ a set ....

Hells teeth, at that price I'd want them to tell jokes and do the washing up as well, at the very least.

 

[Steve Cook]

In the land of half arsed / half started projects I call home, another pair of previously 'stalled' projects have hit the workbench / kitchen table.

I'm supposed to be having a tidy up and clear out - got friends due over later - but ended up moving a shelf diorama I had started sometime last year. I had got as far as painting and installing a knackered wooden platform and glued the rails to the shelf, but after painting one of the 'grass mats' I'd bought cheaply, it did the one thing that paper does when wet, get proper wrinkly  I cut the mat into suitable strips, put them on a shelf in the cupboard, then placed the shelf diorama on top to flatten them out. After a slightly longer than intended pause, said strips of grass mat have been stuck to the shelf today in preparation for a bit of static grass action. Its all still a bit dayglo, but that will vanish under the static grass...I hope..

 

[Jordan]

I saw that Darren Sherwood Jones was using some nice scrapers - ?65+ a set -

When D.S.J. first showed up in Model Rail - a few years ago, now - telling us all what "good value" JLTRT prices were, I knew then that some people have money to burn.... :scratch: :

 

[Steve Cook]

Bit of progress on the shelf yesterday. Friday's visitor didn't make it home yesterday on account of all of the main roads suffering from huge delays and accidents, we just cracked open another beer and I got him to try his hand at modelling  He's not bad at all (much to his surprise it has to be said), but he found the whole static grass thing fascinating. There is a lot of long grass to remove it has to be said, but I prefer to put a lot on, then remove all the bits which have fallen over whilst the glue dries. Anyway, after two coats of 8mm static grass, plus lots of long grass fibres, it looks like this

 

[Steve Cook]

Too much work and not enough play is a good description of the start of the year for me, but a weekend off and plenty of rain outside gave me the chance to finish off my Gauge 3 wagon and plonk it in the newly aquired light tent for some photos. Still some way to go to get the exposure right (hence the variation in background colour), but it was an interesting way to spend a few hours. Anyway, here are the best results of the photo shoot











Steve

 

[Rob Pulham]

That is lovely Steve

 

[28ten]

The brake lever seems to have come loose  :scratch:
but very nice otherwise 

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Excellent weathering Steve, especially the running gear iron work.

ATB, Col.