DJH 9F 2-10-0

[Ressaldar]

However, sadly not the correct loco for pulling those Summers bogies as it has no compressed air gear. Never mind - at least I won't have to build the bogies to go with it!

Brian

Hi Brian,

the Summers hoppers were not controlled by compressed air - neither braking or discharge, in fact they were unfitted - so no excuse, get on the phone to Warren Shepard straight away and you could have a couple finished before the New Year

https://www.flickr.com/photos/69363...Lo8t-jKEU3K-9ZZ413-4aFet-jqjZgV-jqor2N-jqopMo

cheers

Mike

 

[AJC]

However, sadly not the correct loco for pulling those Summers bogies as it has no compressed air gear. Never mind - at least I won't have to build the bogies to go with it!

Brian - you must be thinking of the Tyne Dock-Consett hoppers (which had vac' brakes and air operated doors). As Mike says, the Summer's hoppers were much less sophisticated...

Adam

 

[oldravendale]

My error indeed. I had confused the two.

Whether we'll run with that stock or not won't be up to me, though. Club will decide, and as for me building them, once this loco is completed I have a few of my own to build.

Brian

 

[oldravendale]

Well, pride before a fall and all that.

Following tests and running on my short 6ft radius reverse curves without any problems I took it to club last night to start running in. The LH crank then promptly unwound itself and the motion jammed, for reasons yet unknown. It didn't even get out of the siding where I first railed it. Must be a spectacularly powerful motor though, as the crank was screwed in to the Slater's wheel and was a very tight fit.

I've put it on the bench and hope to examine this afternoon. I may then just put on one side for a week or two and re-gurd my loins for another attempt.

A bit of a pain in the bum though.

Brian

 

[oldravendale]

An update:

I took down the complete assembly above the crank. I'd noticed that the clearance between the con rod and coupling rod was a bit tight so added a 10BA washer, just to give a bit of clearance. I then ran the loco initially, on the rolling road, coupling and con rod only. Perfect! I added the valve gear assembly. Perfect! I then ran the loco on the reverse curves. Perfect! I then ran it on the rolling road. All afternoon. Perfect!

Still running now. Waddya think of that?????

B

 

[Steph Dale]

Dad,
I think the words 'adequate' and 'perfect' aren't synonyms.
But I'm also pleased you got the loco back together again without undue hitches!
Steph

 

[oldravendale]

So......went to club. Put loco on track. Switched on controller. Off it went! And round and round and round etc etc . And in reverse too.

At the first opportunity I'm back ti the bench so I can finish off the bodywork - still a considerable task. Modelling is on the back burner now, though, as I'm involved in trying to push back two large (110 houses in a village of only 230 houses) planning applications, extending the Conservation Area and writing a Neighbourhood Plan. Something has to give!

However, on the occasional hour or two spare it's good to be able to get away from it all in the workshop.

Photos will follow as building progresses but, at the moment, the loco looks exactly as it did when the valve gear dropped off.

Brian

 

[oldravendale]

So............

I've found a few hours over the last couple of weeks and am close to completing the 9F. I'm well aware that this is built pretty well out of the box - I thought I could build from kits, if slowly, until I came on this forum, but the detail applied to many builds is way beyond me! Nevertheless, despite a few trials I've eventually got there.

Tested on the rolling road today and it went well. I'll be testing it for real on Thursday on the club layout.

Then, as soon as the good weather arrives it'll be time to spray - as Evening Star, unfortunately as it's a loco for club. I'd prefer a workaday black loco myself but was out voted.

Oh - one other thing. The loco is decidedly grubby. That's because I don't use fibreglass pencils under any circumstances since I attracted a fibre in to my thumb about twenty years ago. It's still there and gives me gyp from time to time.

Brian



PS. Still a few days before it'll be finished. I started on the back head today

 

[Scale7JB]

Lovely work Brian... A very imposing beast!!

JB.

 

[john lewsey]

Like it Brian

 

[mickoo]

Very nice, nowt wrong with that

 

[oldravendale]

Thanks chaps.

Particular thanks to Mickoo for the detailed pics of Evening Star and also for the other contributions of the very few bits not on Mick's files. It truly would not have been possible without these, particularly as the instructions left a fair bit to be desired.

BTW, the proper clean up will involve tooth brushes, stencil brushes and Bar Keeper's Friend. And loads of running water.

More when it's finished. It'll be painted alongside the DJH A3.

Brian

 

[Scanlon]

Smashing!

Roger

 

[Ressaldar]

Great stuff Brian.

cheers

Mike

 

[dibateg]

Nice work Brian - it is not the easiest of kits and I'm with you on the fibreglass brushes - they give a good finish, but I hate those pesky fibres.

Tony

 

[oldravendale]

On 5th May 2015 I stated that this would be painted alongside the A3. For reasons not relevant to discussion here it wasn't (although I can give chapter and verse if required). However, as I write this now the loco, tender and various post painting accoutrements are in a washing soda/hot water/aluminium foil bath in the workshop. I suspect that I've already run out of time for the current run of warm weather, but we'll see. In any event, once properly cleaned the loco can be kept warm, dry and dust free until more painting weather arrives. This one will be hand lined - it'll be the third I've done and I'm oh so slow, but the finished article looks much better and more subtle to my eye, and that was the request of club (see below).

Some time ago, and it must have been on this forum as it's the only one to which I pay any attention, there was reference to using Copydex rather than Maskol as a masking agent. I believe that this is because Copydex does not deteriorate over a couple of days, so can be kept in place during the various painting stages. As a recap, this loco is for my club and has been requested as "Evening Star" (I was outvoted - I reckoned black was good!) so I'll have to keep all the pipework and other brassy and coppery bits clean and brassy during priming, painting, masking and painting again. Can it be confirmed that Copydex is the way to go, or should I break out the Maskol? (Which is actually pretty horrible stuff to use on detail parts anyway).

I freely acknowledge that I should have made the pipework removable as a unit which, of course, I would were I building the thing now, but which I've not because I'm still at the back of the class and didn't.................................................................................................................................. think ah........ ead.

Comments, please, and I'll go into town (ho ho - anyone who's been to Tring will understand, but it's the nearest we have) tomorrow and buy some Copydex at enormous expense.

Brian

PS - following my earlier comments about difficulty in finding ancient threads I found this one really easily, so thank you for the advice.

 

[warren haywood]

Brian,
I use copydex after Ian Rathbone put me onto it
Much better than Maskol

 

[oldravendale]

Thank you Warren.

I'll buy some Copydex tomorrow.

B

 

[Silverystreaks]

Very nice 9F build I am waiting to see what the MOK 9F looks in the flesh before committing

The copydex method is one I had not heard of and will use when the need arises

 

[oldravendale]

Approaching the third anniversary of the start of this thread......

Actually, I'm close to the finish line. Painting and lining of loco and tender is complete, with just final bits, like buffer beams and fitting buffers etc to complete. I have a set of plates for loco and tender which includes the water scoop instructions to go on the tender footplate, but I can find no photos of the location for a BRIG tender. I'll be grateful for some help to finalise location.

Photos will follow, but help for now will be appreciated.

Brian