Etch Pens - Where to Source/Buy?

[CME & Bottlewasher]

Hi all

I have had a pen/felt tip that has a mild acid in it and is ideal for small touch-in jobs for use in blackening of brass, steel etc. prior to priming and painting etc.

Mine has just run out and I purchased it from a company mentioned in an old MRJ - yet for the life of me I can't remember who they were/or find the article

I have tried Eileen's, with no luck and Maplins have something in stock but I am not sure if it is the same product or not...

<http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=Etching Pen&x=0&y=0>

Can anyone help me (I am not sure that I am calling it by its correct name) ?

Thanks in anticipation.

ATVB

CME

 

[Overseer]

The Maplins pen is just a standard Staedtler permanent ink felt tip as used for overhead projectors (if they still exist). They are used for hand drawing the tracks on circuit boards and act as resist while it is being etched. So it would do the opposite of the one you are looking for. Sorry, can't help with one that does the etching though.

 

[markjj]

Try a glass etching pen possibly from a stained glass window parts supplier or for marking car windows

Mark J

 

[Dog Star]

From what you have said... acid / pen /mrj advert... I think that you maybe talking about the flux pen from CPL (catalogue in a Daifly post last year).

 

[CME & Bottlewasher]

Hi Guys

Thanks - as mentioned this pen is charged with a mild acid, the issue is confused/confusing, as other 'etch pens' are for glass (I have those for security marking et al.) and the Maplin's one/type , so my Google searches have been fruitless to date.

I havnt tried CPL yet....I will though

Thanks for the pointers

ATB

CME

 

[Wizard of the Moor]

http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/CGI/INSR...=Etching+pen&x=-257&y=-143&Ntk=Keyword+Search

Link courtesy of Philip Hall on the Scalefour Society forum.

RS Components also advertise these pens, but the last time I tried to order one I was told that it couldn't be supplied due to confusion over the nature of the acid in the pen. They are a great timesaver for touching in delicate bits of brakegear and the like.

 

[CME & Bottlewasher]

http://www.mscdirect.co.uk/CGI/INSRCH?ns=1&oldNtt=&oldNtk=&oldURLVar=&scrNtt=Etching pen&x=-257&y=-143&Ntk=Keyword Search

Link courtesy of Philip Hall on the Scalefour Society forum.

RS Components also advertise these pens, but the last time I tried to order one I was told that it couldn't be supplied due to confusion over the nature of the acid in the pen. They are a great timesaver for touching in delicate bits of brakegear and the like.

Hi WotM

Thanks for the link, yet have you seen the price

They are really useful though - as you say.

I know I bought mine a while back - and used it sparingly - but I dont think that it cost anywhere near to that price £8/9 maybe (I thought that was juicy enough ). I also have the feeling that although I kept it in a cool, dry place, that I still didnt get it's full potential/full use (as acid seemed to leach out of the end).

Please dont think that I am being mean/tight, yet it aint worth just under £30 to me - I am truly grateful for the link, perhaps I will Google best price for....

<http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/METAL-ETCHING-PEN-p3113.htm>

Although this one is US based the price when converted would be nearer to the sort of price that I have paid for one (in the past) - I will keep looking

Thanks again guys .

Kindest,

CME

 

[Steve Cook]

Hi CME
Any reason you can't use normal chemical blackening solution and cotton buds and / or a small paintbrush?
The pen seems to me to be an unnecessary duplication at best and if leaches out acid over time.....

Steve

 

[CME & Bottlewasher]

Hi CME
Any reason you can't use normal chemical blackening solution and cotton buds and / or a small paintbrush?
The pen seems to me to be an unnecessary duplication at best and if leaches out acid over time.....

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks

Yes that's a good idea and I was pondering very similar earlier - I even tried to source, with the help of WT members an environmental friendly chemical black a while back (which is only available in the US and yet it doesnt work on brass).

When you put it that way, it does make the pen seem a little wasteful

The truth is that the skull and bones on the side of the bottle has tended to put me off of chemical blacking as I am quite clumsy With it being toxic and me being clumsy I have avoided such in larger quantities. Of course I probably use other equally dangerous chemicals anyway.

Kindest,

CME

 

[Steve Cook]

I'm sure you could work around your clumsiness CME if thats what is holding you off. Two options spring immediately to mind, either make a stand for the bottle so you can't knock it over, or decant a small portion of the blackening fluid into a much smaller glass jar so if you do knock it over, there is significantly less fluid to worry about. I suppose the top hat and tails approach is to make a stand for a small glass bottle so you can't knock it over and use a diluted solution to minimise the impact of spillage or drops. Decanting from one container to another is the job of a plastic pipette, I have one dedicated to the task.
Stands don't need to be anything clever, mine is an offcut of 4 x 0.75" timber with two holes in it. One fits a glass MEK bottle tightly, the other holds one of the Carrs plastic containers. As I use Carrs fluxes, chemical blacks and neutralising fluid, the second holes covers most of my 'bottle support' requirements. I didn't have a hole saw small enough so I picked the closest one and lined the hole with cardboard strips until it was a tight fit around the bottle.



Theres no finese involved I'm afraid, its just a simple tool to avoid spillages and worth the 10 minutes it took to make. If nothing else, perhaps its something to add to your consideration list

Steve

 

[Heather Kay]

The truth is that the skull and bones on the side of the bottle has tended to put me off of chemical blacking as I am quite clumsy

A trick I was shown by Derek Mundy (late of Model Signal Engineering) was to use blutack or similar all round the bottom of the bottle. It helps add stability to the bottle, and also sticks to the work surface if you want. I'm currently using it to hold a tub of flux still.

Another idea is to take a thick plywood off cut, or a waste section of kitchen worktop, and cut a hole in it. The bottle of noxious stuff goes in the hole.

If you're worried about getting fluids on your hands, you can wear latex gloves, or those plastic ones they have in petrol stations for the diesel users.

 

[CME & Bottlewasher]

Hi Heather and Steve,

Many thanks for those ideas - very useful and I will give them some thought.

I already use latex et al type gloves for any tricky stuff.

In days gone by when, I did manual work, I took lots of risks and even when careful things went wrong - steel shards in eyes (despite the use of goggles) and battery acid in my face, eyes and mouth due to someone else's negligence.

Does anyone know just how 'dangerous' the blackening chemicals are?

Kind regards, with thanks,

CME

 

[Heather Kay]

The bottle of Birchwood Casey Brass Black I have here has the skull and crossbones, plus:

DANGER: POISON. May be fatal if swallowed. Causes severe eye damage.​

​

If that hasn't put you off, they also list the contents:

Contains selenious acid and phosphoric acid. Corrosive to the eyes and may damage skin upon prolonged contact.​

​

I have been aware of the noxious contents since I started using the stuff, and while I have had the occasional splash on fingers I haven't suffered any lasting effects. I treat it with the respect it deserves, and follow the directions as far as practical. I think if you are sensible, follow the precautions, and ensure the bottle is unable to tip over in use, you should be fine.

 

[CME & Bottlewasher]

The bottle of Birchwood Casey Brass Black I have here has the skull and crossbones, plus:

DANGER: POISON. May be fatal if swallowed. Causes severe eye damage.​

​

If that hasn't put you off, they also list the contents:

Contains selenious acid and phosphoric acid. Corrosive to the eyes and may damage skin upon prolonged contact.​

​

I have been aware of the noxious contents since I started using the stuff, and while I have had the occasional splash on fingers I haven't suffered any lasting effects. I treat it with the respect it deserves, and follow the directions as far as practical. I think if you are sensible, follow the precautions, and ensure the bottle is unable to tip over in use, you should be fine.

Hi Heather



Thanks for the lowdown and the hints and tips - I agree

I will seek some out in due course I expect.

Kind regards,

CME