OK Jan,
You have convinced me. Lets face it, if a pile of house brick can be considered a work of art, then why not!
Adrian,
The attachment of the roof on the Jinty is a nice idea and looks to have worked well. However, as the cab sides on the MOK kit incorporate the eaves of the roof and extend for between 4 and 10 mm under the separate roof etch, it would not be possible to do it that way. In any case, I don't see the need to have the roof removable, if you can remove the floor and back plate as I have done. This allows adequate room to paint the cab interior and fit the glazing. I think its more important to have the roof fixed down tight all round, which I don't think will be possible unless it is soldered in place. Here's the access to the cab, removing the floor gives. The Solderpro gas jet gave a much better result with soldering the front and back roof seams than an electric iron would have. It burned in the confined space without going out, as those cheap pencil like gas jets do, having tried to do similar work with one in the past.
The front and side windows will be no problem to glaze.
The rear ones will be a little tricky being recessed between the cab side and locker, but are still accessible.
These are the modifications to the cab floor to aid fitting. About 10 mm of half etch lip at the bottom of the photo was removed
The casting (ejector control valve) on the bracket on the left hand side had to be moved up to clear the hand wheel on the reverser, as did the pipe from the bottom of the valve, but is barely noticeable through the side window.
I did a bit more cleaning up over lunch time around the cab/bunker area. Not wishing to labour the point, I don't see how you can get this good a fixing if the roof is removable, but if Ken, Adrian or anybody else prove me wrong, then I will eat humble pie.
The "eaves" on the cab side extend under the roof to about the top edge of the riveted disc.
T'other side.
A further refinement that I over looked to mention earlier, is drilling through the casting at the top of the regulator crank to give more of a "forked'' appearance to the end of the regulator rod. It doesn't bring much to the party but only took second to do , so why not? I wonder if I should shorten the spigot with a few strokes of the file. It's amazing how much solder these cruel close ups show. Mind you if the model was this big it would easy to clean it off.
Better get back to work, I've cut myself enough slack already.
Cheers,
Peter