7mm On Heather's Workbench - another other Twin

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I normally prime with an acrylic rattle can. Because of the glazing, which frankly vexes me due to overly fiddly masking required, on this occasion I went straight on to the bare resin.

I think this was a mistake. Plan B may be called into action.
 

Jon Fitness

Western Thunderer
I have had problems in the past with resin bus kits. All scrubbed up and clean and dry. The primer goes on a treat, perfect coverage and smooth finish but for some reason as soon as the top coat goes on, odd random spots pull away back to the primer. Never found why...
Never had the problem with a JLTRT kit though.
JF
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Bullet bitten.

image.jpeg

Back to mostly bare resin. I began the process of rubbing down the worst areas, and came to the conclusion I was not going to make things better. I extracted the glazing material - one advantage of PVA-based canopy glue, I suppose - and set about the carcass with stripper. Now I'll let it dry, first on the window sill, then in the airing cupboard. Then I'll mask the window apertures from inside and start again with a primer coat like I should have done the first time!
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Interesting...

I painted my JLTRT Toplights (see my RMWeb thread) with Halfords best rattle can and in a couple of very small places, I got a strange patch where the paint simply didn't wet the resin. I could not see any reason why. I wonder about release coats, but I wonder more whether there was some kind of imperfect mixing of the resin. Not enough to make a blemish in the surface, but somehow to affect the paint.

As I'd primed them, this seems to be similar to Jon's findings.

(I think the roof of my Wistow Lion is resin... When I get round to it, I'll be specially careful!)

Best
Simon
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
The paint puddling away is nothing to do with the resin, it's caused by the surface tension of the paint being too low, to cure it teduce the amount of paint and increase air pressure and apply a couple of mist costs gradually building up the paint. Not as easy with a can but still possible. Just waft the paint on from further away. Once dry top coats can be put down normally
 

Jon Fitness

Western Thunderer
Interesting...

I painted my JLTRT Toplights (see my RMWeb thread) with Halfords best rattle can and in a couple of very small places, I got a strange patch where the paint simply didn't wet the resin. I could not see any reason why. I wonder about release coats, but I wonder more whether there was some kind of imperfect mixing of the resin. Not enough to make a blemish in the surface, but somehow to affect the paint.

As I'd primed them, this seems to be similar to Jon's findings.

(I think the roof of my Wistow Lion is resin... When I get round to it, I'll be specially careful!)

Best
Simon

Ooh another wistow bus! Looking forward to seeing that...
JF
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
image.jpeg

That's looking more like it. Using the trusty Badger 200 loaded with Humbrol Gloss Black thinned with white spirit, I laid down a few light coats, on low pressure and small needle setting around and in all the grilles and window apertures. After a short session with a gentle wafting from my old hairdryer, I applied some further layers to a reasonably even coat. I'll let things dry for a day or two before inspection and inevitable sanding of dust specks.

The plan is to get sufficient density over and around the noses, then invert the body and spray the sides and skirts again. Hope the weather stays warm to avoid the need for the oil radiator in the paint shop.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
image.jpeg

No, it's not First World War artillery pieces. It's the component parts, 3D printed for me by Simon T from the drawings he did a couple of years ago, of two English Electic 16SVTs. One is for the current build, the other to super detail the same client's 10000.
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

Have yo made any progress building the EE 16SVTs yet? I'm really interested to see how they turn out :D

Cheers
Lee
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I haven't, I have to say. The mojo is lacking, so I'm picking away at various jobs on various builds, with the aim of making some sort of progress. It kind of looks like it's coaches this week, although I did some work on Western Princess yesterday.

I have three builds nearing completion, and it's reached a point where I need to concentrate on them to clear them away and make more room for new work!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right, time for an update.

The power train of this build has been bugging me for ages. It's a Slater's box and motor, driving one axle with Delrin to a leading axle. From the get-go it had a nasty wobble, and although I've managed to calm the shimmy down somewhat, the client and I agreed the way forward was a proper motor bogie from ABC. Add into the mix I have his earlier build of 10000 which I have been tasked with matching the new build as far as DCC and sound, so we've gone for a whole motor bogie each. I collect the bogies at Telford in a few days, and I shall then need some method of restraining my purse so it doesn't float off into the stratosphere!

So, while I've concentrated in some other builds, including the three that were nearing completion and which are now either delivered or ready to deliver, in the dead space before we trek up to Shropshire I've been fiddling about with the bodywork of 10001.

image.jpeg

Yesterday I tackled the aluminium side strips. More on that in a moment. Today, I decided to make up and fit a bulkhead that's clearly visible through the windows at the No 2 end. The bulkhead separates the control system clean area from the engine room, from what I can tell. What I've done is make a styrene sheet bulkhead with a simulated door and some confection of bracing and conduit (the latter I have no reference for but it looked very bare otherwise. The interior, and engine, will be painted aluminium. All period photos show the main interior colour is metallic, so that's what I shall go for.

image.jpeg

Here's the 16SVT. Mr Thompson should look away now, as some surgery was needed to get the model to sit down properly in the body of the loco. Essentially, I've had to chop away the sump, a lower part of the dynamo/exciter, shave a little off the "side cheeks" by the exciter end, and add a little styrene block to support the other end. I had also asked for the turbo units to be created, but it turns out you can't see them, and they wouldn't fit with the roof on. Ho hum. Still, it looks great, and once it's had a dose of aluminium paint it'll fill the windows nicely.

Now, to the side strip. I had been letting this fester in the brain cell for ages, trying to work out how to best approach it. The strip is a raised moulding, and remained a feature of the twins for their entire lives. At first, I tried masking the sides, leaving the strip clear so I could brush paint it. The Humbrol metallic aluminium I have is like dishwater, and needs several coats to give good coverage. Anyway, the masking sort of worked, but the bits near the moulded grilles are a right royal pain as the strip merges with the grille framing, and paint still wicked under the masking tape. I still need to resolve this, and would probably countenance scribing a demarcation line if I were to do it again. In the end, I've brush painted the strip, carefully, and without masking. Some fettling will be required to remove the inevitable overpaint, but it'll be alright in the end.

If I was to start over, I'd probably paint the strips silver first, then mask them before painting the black.

I have also decided to attempt flush glazing the cabs, since I had to pop the glazing out earlier in the repainting process.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Well it worked out as we thought it would as I worked from an XLTRT drawing and you have a JLTRT plastic floor to accommodate. Shame about the turbos; very glad I didn't draw up the full manifold!
Is it coming to Shropshire?
Simon
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

You suggested pre painting the "aluminium" as an option for the side stripe in future. I wouldn't, as that Humbrol metallic stuff has reflective bits in it! The solvents in any subsequent overlaid paint will always release some of them - and they will merrily float to the surface of the new paint and happily twinkle at you for the rest of time!

Have you considered self adhesive aluminium foil? It is lovely stuff. Cuts easily and cleanly with a scalpel, and whilst it is rather bright and mirror like, can be lightly abraded to give a more acceptable "ally" or burnished steel finish or to improve paint adhesion, it is very thin, and sticks like do-dah!

But here's the best bit; you can buy it in rolls about the same width as wide masking tape, and is available at any good automotive retailer!

I use it on 7mm model roofs for lead flashing, painted with a mix of light grey and gunmetal and also for a couple of model aircraft canopy frames as well as all sorts odd jobs!

Once you have got a roll, you'll probably wonder how you ever lived without it!!!

Pete.
 
Top