Painting and lining

oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
warren haywood said:
All done and dusted :)
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Once again a beautiful job, Warren.

A question if I may. (And quite important as I'm close to starting to paint the 9F which the club has asked to be Evening Star). How do you get the paint behind the smoke deflectors? The obvious answer may be to leave them off until painting is otherwise complete, but then how do you fix them without ruining the paintwork underneath?

Brian
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Thanks Chaps :)

Brian, it's a bit of a cheat really, I suppose if you were doing it correctly you would make the deflectors removeable with angle and screws and attach after painting.
With celly paint you can build up the coverage gradually by spraying at a low angle from both sides and from the top. Also it's possible to bounce the paint off the smokebox and behind the deflectors, the angle and air pressure determines this. From all viewing angles it's nicely covered but I suppose down at the middle bottom out of sight there may be a bare patch!
With the Brit and I guess the 9f is the same, there is a fair old gap between deflector and smokebox so no real problem getting a good coverage behind
Warren
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
warren haywood said:
Brian, it's a bit of a cheat really, I suppose if you were doing it correctly you would make the deflectors removeable with angle and screws and attach after painting.
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That's very helpful, Warren. It points out that I should review my methods of spraying and certainly not try to cover in one coat. Certainly the finish you achieve with several light coats is far an away superior to aything I've achieved so far, but then I've been using spray cans! You have already inspired me to unpack the air brush once again, give it a good clean and have another go with it. Subject to some half way decent results with it (a Badger 200) I may even consider upgrading.

Brian
 
Heather Kay

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I use a Badger 200. It's a perfectly adequate, simple airbrush. I can't get on with those fancy dual-action things, so the one trigger, twiddle-the-end-to-adjust-flow suits me just fine.
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
You've
Heather Kay said:
I use a Badger 200. It's a perfectly adequate, simple airbrush. I can't get on with those fancy dual-action things, so the one trigger, twiddle-the-end-to-adjust-flow suits me just fine.
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You've no idea how comforting it is to read those words, Heather! I hope to get round to some end twiddling during this summer on one of those balmy, hot, wind free days. Come to think of it I'd better emigrate.

Brian
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
I've got a 200 which, these days, is used only for etched primer. I replaced it with an 'Anthem' which is a great thing to use for top coats and weathering; it's also a doddle to clean as it's all held together on bayonet fittings...

Steph
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Iwata for me, Tr2 for celulose and etch primer, this has a .5mm nozzle which is perfect. Also have one of the cheep neo's for weathering with a .3mm nozzle which gives a nice fine mist. If I have to paint anything in enamel I use a revolution CR again with .3mm nozzle.
Warren
 
tomstaf

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
I could never get enough control out of the Bager point and shoot range and thought I just wasn't cut out for airbrushing. Then I discovered the dual action Harder & Steenbeck brushes. Never looked back since and easy to deconstruct for cleaning. You might like them Warren as they're German just like your bow pens ;)

Cheers

Tom
 
warren haywood

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
tomstaf said:
I could never get enough control out of the Bager point and shoot range and thought I just wasn't cut out for airbrushing. Then I discovered the dual action Harder & Steenbeck brushes. Never looked back since and easy to deconstruct for cleaning. You might like them Warren as they're German just like your bow pens ;)

Cheers

Tom
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Cant say I had ever hearted of them so just had a look. Very nice looking bit of kit but a bit fine art for me:) No good for splodging celly on but well worth a look for the weathering experts amongst us!
 
tomstaf

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
warren haywood said:
Cant say I had ever hearted of them so just had a look. Very nice looking bit of kit but a bit fine art for me:) No good for splodging celly on but well worth a look for the weathering experts amongst us!
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You'd be surprised actually. I tried some cellulose through their Evolution 0.4mm no issue. But I'm almost 100% acrylic now and prefer the 0.2mm nozzle.

Cheers

Tom
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
tomstaf said:
But I'm almost 100% acrylic now and prefer the 0.2mm nozzle.
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It just shows how different our experiences are.

I really struggled with acrylics through 0.3mm nozzle and was "put off" airbrushing until Cynric suggested that I get an airbrush with a 0.5mm nozzle I did and I haven't looked back.

I have almost used my stock of rattle cans and I won't be replacing them, much preferring the air brush.
 
tomstaf

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:
It just shows how different our experiences are.

I really struggled with acrylics through 0.3mm nozzle and was "put off" airbrushing until Cynric suggested that I get an airbrush with a 0.5mm nozzle I did and I haven't looked back.

I have almost used my stock of rattle cans and I won't be replacing them, much preferring the air brush.
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Indeed, and that's why I like these forums:) I think it's all about getting used to the different paints and your brush. I use a very low pressure (rarely about 15psi) and spray about 10-15cm max from the model. I spray paint with a 60(paint)/40 mix for Vallejo and so far so good. More like 50/50 for Vallejo varnish and AK acrylics. As ever, practice makes p'...

Cheers
Tom
 
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