7mm Rob's Rolling Stock Workbench

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Looking great Rob, the final version of the roof looks spot on and as Richard says not an easy task to form that. I'm sure my Dad has a copy of Great Central remembered and annoyingly I nearly bought the locomotives illustrated whilst on holiday in Cornwall !! I'll scan the picture for you Rob if I can find the book,

ATB Mick

Cheers Mick:thumbs:
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
More progress on the underframe details - the holes etched for the bearings are way too big so they took a bit of getting central.

The step hangers had a half etch line that I couldn't work out the purpose of which made the steps a little flimsy, so I added a strip of scrap etch behind to strengthen them. Next I need to work out which brakes fit where - I made the mistake of cutting them from the etch and I cannot find where they went to work out which numbers are which. Some are in pairs and the others are individual hangers/shoes.

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And lastly a shot of the roof formers in place

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Heather,
That's what I love about forums, picking up and sharing ideas.

I hope to have the opportunity to say hello at Telford.:thumbs:
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I look forward to meeting you.

The only times I plan to be away from the stand will be for comfort breaks and the WT meet up at one. If I do get the chance, though, I shall be skipping off to spend money and chatting to important people.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Sadly am not sure that I will make the meet up, it will depend on how Chris is bearing up. But I will endeavour to drop by the stand at some point - I want to ask Laurie about some coach roofs for my CPL triplet set.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
A good session last night saw the brakes sorted after a proper DOH! moment - the etched slots that you can see in the underframe are for the individual brakes - You even get FS/S7 spacing (although having re-read the instructions this is a throwback to the kit being scaled up from 4mm and designed as 00/P4).

I now have it up on it's wheels but looking at the photos has confirmed last nights suspicion that one end is higher than the other.....It was 11pm and I wondered if it was my eyes playing tricks.

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7mmMick

Western Thunderer
I always like the first time on its wheels moment. What was the problem last night Rob, did you build it S7. That's not a problem pal it's your inner most urges trying to escape :)) seriously though it's looking good, is the ride height issue an easy fix?

ATB Mick
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
With the Timber wagons off the bench I returned to the CCT.

First I added the brake levers and guards

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Then the instructions said mount the Westinghouse cylinder centrally the drawing being 2D only showed it as being central across the V hangers not which side it sat so I found a square of brass that would mount across the floor void and then I though that perhaps the cylinder would be supported by straps so I made some up followed by a bit of pipework leading to the Westinghouse pump. Having done all that I may have it the wrong way around but it's not likely to be seen so it can stay as it is (mainly because I have had to resolder the vacuum cylinder back on once already due to the heat from solder the mounting plate in place melting the 70 degree solder that I mounted it with).

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Next I had a look at the spring hangers and initially I was a little confused because they come cat in pairs on a mounting block (see the bottom of the photo below). The problem being once you have things like truss rods and brake lever guards etc. soldered to the solebars there is no way on earth that the chunky mounting block will fit any where near - not to mention the rocking mechanism.

My (rather tedious) solution has been to cut them with my piercing saw to make them fit on top/behind the solebars. Two down two more to go this evening......

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Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Robin,

Thank you for the photo showing the brake fittings... I have been trying to get some Westinghouse stuff for several years with no luck (tried the usual suspects at Telford and Reading) because the GWR had a surprising number of NPCS which were dual braked. To fit a GWR vehicle with air brake means getting hold of:-

* air brake cylinder;
* air reservoir;
* triple valve.

The parts in your CCT kit look like fitting the bill for the brake cylinder and air reservoir.... is there a casting for the triple valve?

regards, Graham

[the most interesting GWR dual brake vehicle to date has to be the Outside Framed bogie Siphon to Diagram O11... I have a digital image of one in Lake, with gold lettering, at Perth in 1914]
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I haven't managed much time at the workbench recently but this week I managed a little.

Sometime back I posted some home made vacuum pipes and someone asked for a step by step next time I made some (I think that it might have been Graham).

This is what was included in the kit - the whitemetal ones that is along with the fine beading wire that I use for creating the 'ribbing'
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I started by measuring and cutting some 50mm lengths of 0.7mm brass rod.

I held each one in a pin vice with 25mm protruding and tucked one end of the beading wire down the small gap in the jaws of the pin vice.

Next I wound the beading wire around the protruding wire keeping the strands tight against each other until I had around 5mm left without binding.
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Holding the end still attached to the reel tight I soldered the beading wire in place then snipped the end attached to the reel.

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Removing it from the pin vice I snipped and tidied the other end up and slipped a 10mm length of annealed microbore tube over the long end. I also drilled a hole in the end of a strip of scrap and soldered it over the other end. Cutting it back and rounding each end once it was soldered in place.

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Being the tight Yorkshireman that I am when I use pinheads for rivets I don't throw the shanks away. To create the ring around the top end of the tube I annealed a pin shank and wound it around the other end of the bound section on the long section (the end with the microbore tube on it). Finally snipping it off and soldering it in place.

Next I bent the section of annealed tube to right angles and finally I cut a length of shrink tube and shrank it over the top. I have to confess I am not sure about the shrink tube and I may end up cutting it off.....

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The last pair of pipes will be a tad harder because they have taps on them and I need to work out the best way to represent them - Last night I had a brilliant idea on how to do it but I blowed if I can recall it today.........
 
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