1/32 finescale in the garden

simond

Western Thunderer
Any NMRA compliant decoder should work on any NMRA compliant system, (that’s pretty much all of them) though of course it needs to be capable of handling the motor stall current without damage.
 

andrew60

Member
Not much work on the garden line at this time of year, so attention has turned to some of the rolling stock projects, and after five years on and off (mostly off) I've completed my two Ken Martin SR PMVs. Those with long memories from a time when there was more 1/32 activity on here, may recall a 'PMV races' thread, involving several contributors. I was never in the race, but I feel like one of those London marathon participants determined to finish the course long after everyone else has packed up and gone home.
IMG_6547.jpeg
Building two has been doubly challenging, and due to bad technique, the amount of surplus solder evident in the picture has probably increased their overall weight. I went my own way on the chassis using Peter Korzilius' W irons and long-discontinued Roxey Mouldings wheels. Axleboxes are Peter K's white metal castings, individually sprung with roller bearings, and scratch-built axlebox covers based around Slaters plastic mouldings. Mostly they run like the wind, except on the sharply curved turnback where the long wheelbase causes a little drag.

IMG_6555.jpeg
Once painted in the warmer weather they will complete my parcels rake, along with the two Tower Models BR BGs and a commissioned Collett full brake. Needless to say, their current 'million dollar gold plus spilt solder' appearance will be replaced by 'total grime' weathering, which is how I remember them in BR service.
 

David Halfpenny

Western Thunderer
Thing is, Andrew, they look Right :)
In particular, the wheels look right, in a way that G1MRA Standard' ones never can.​
As for drag, they damned-well ought to slow down on a curve like that!
I'm seriously considering guard-railing my 2m radius one, not so much to keep the stock on, as to signal, "Yes I know this curve is tight!"​
On the solder front, my attempt to design a totally plug-and-play Resistance Soldering Unit has hit further snags.
However a home-build RSU is still within reach for anyone who can wire a mains plug - a separate conversation of course.​
(There's no significant cost saving in making one's own - it just avoids queuing for a small-batch commercial one.)​
 

andrew60

Member
Thing is, Andrew, they look Right :)
In particular, the wheels look right, in a way that G1MRA Standard' ones never can.​
As for drag, they damned-well ought to slow down on a curve like that!
I'm seriously considering guard-railing my 2m radius one, not so much to keep the stock on, as to signal, "Yes I know this curve is tight!"​
On the solder front, my attempt to design a totally plug-and-play Resistance Soldering Unit has hit further snags.
However a home-build RSU is still within reach for anyone who can wire a mains plug - a separate conversation of course.​
(There's no significant cost saving in making one's own - it just avoids queuing for a small-batch commercial one.)​
Yes, in fairness the PMV instructions advise using resistance soldering, which I didn't, although most of my problems were solved once I started using phosphoric acid flux. The main problems were that the sides buckled when attaching the vertical framing, and if I was doing them again I would consider first soldering strips of metal angle to the inside faces as strengthener. New techniques may render such elaborate etched kits obsolete, but as you say, they look right, and it's hard to beat the crisp edges of metal framework. There are other G1 versions which don't look right at all!
I have thought about check rails on the curves but it would be a lot of faff, and that section is nominally non-scenic. The curve is 8'6'' radius approx and seems okay as long as I maintain consistent cant all the way around.
 
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