Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Just back from Barrow Road, I'll edit this post in due course to give a fuller report. But, in the mean time...
Stay safe
Mike.
Stay safe
Mike.
Mike G's Workspace.
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Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Quick update on the 63xx...
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Forever the pessimistQuick update on the 63xx...
View attachment 264162
Chassis is completed other than some nuts that need soldering in. I'm not going to add the cosmetic sides. I had my fingers burned on the 51xx with that and I'm not going thru that drama again.
Also completed : cylinders, G hangers, front bogie and all the brakes, and I started the cross heads (which are a great design). Other jobs completed - but cannot be seen - Identified all the parts from the etches that will make up this engine. I did widen the cylinders by 1.3 mm. It's best to pay attention to what other gifted modelers have done on their build.
I have a complete set of Keen Maygib wheels for this kit. The tender wheels are right out of the ark...they have one-eighth axles that you have to cut to length yourself. I haven't had to do that since I built a DJH Hall with Sharman wheels (remember them?). That was 1998!!
Absolutely no problems in the build so far, but I'm sure that'll change!
Stay safe
Mike.
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
I have some sympathy with this point of view, Mike, especially if the absence of the overlays isn't that obvious when the loco is complete, painted, weathered and in operation on the layout. Far more important in my view is a loco that runs well and looks good in overall terms.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
You're absolutely right Captain, running before looks.
You know I said no problems so far...
Once I got the crossheads together, I found that the left hand side was...sticky and far too sticky to ignore. Now I could have used a thinner piston (and probably should have), but I decided to ream out the piston lining. 1.1 mm drill went in did the business and there was a definite improvement, but still not good enough. So in went a 1.2mm drill, down to the bottom of the lining and reverse when suddenly there was a sickening crack and only one third of the drill came out! No, I'm not kidding.
Options:
1. Remove the cylinder cover and then remove the piston liner.
2. Cut the liner in half (hopefully cutting the remaining drill bit at the same time) and then remove the liner.
3. Drill the front piston cover and bash the living day lights out of the drill bit and force it out.
Guess which option I went for, yep, hit and hope. But it did work and saved an enormous amount of work.
I've only ever built 2 etched fireboxes before and one of those was scratch built - the GWR County - I have deep reservations of bending brass around brass that 0.3mm wide, especially when there are some complex curves in one piece.
This is how I started the job.
There are 4 location points in the end pieces, but getting them straight and the right width apart is a challenge. All the holes accepted 0.9mm brass rod, the first one has to be accurately located, otherwise your wasting your time.
I then added some 4mm round tube and soldered those to the shoulders of each corner. It's a case of cut marginally over size and file back for a good fit. Bit like this...
Not as perfect as I'd like but it does line up straight with the front cab etch. Then starting from the centre of the end etches formed with wide wooden lolly pop sticks, saved blistering my dear little pinkies. Bend, solder, bend solder...little bit at a time.
Still some work to do on this with the details. I have cut out the all the bits that make up the footplate and that's next. Pretty pleased with the firebox.
Stay safe
Mike.
You know I said no problems so far...
Once I got the crossheads together, I found that the left hand side was...sticky and far too sticky to ignore. Now I could have used a thinner piston (and probably should have), but I decided to ream out the piston lining. 1.1 mm drill went in did the business and there was a definite improvement, but still not good enough. So in went a 1.2mm drill, down to the bottom of the lining and reverse when suddenly there was a sickening crack and only one third of the drill came out! No, I'm not kidding.
Options:
1. Remove the cylinder cover and then remove the piston liner.
2. Cut the liner in half (hopefully cutting the remaining drill bit at the same time) and then remove the liner.
3. Drill the front piston cover and bash the living day lights out of the drill bit and force it out.
Guess which option I went for, yep, hit and hope. But it did work and saved an enormous amount of work.
I've only ever built 2 etched fireboxes before and one of those was scratch built - the GWR County - I have deep reservations of bending brass around brass that 0.3mm wide, especially when there are some complex curves in one piece.
This is how I started the job.
There are 4 location points in the end pieces, but getting them straight and the right width apart is a challenge. All the holes accepted 0.9mm brass rod, the first one has to be accurately located, otherwise your wasting your time.
I then added some 4mm round tube and soldered those to the shoulders of each corner. It's a case of cut marginally over size and file back for a good fit. Bit like this...
Not as perfect as I'd like but it does line up straight with the front cab etch. Then starting from the centre of the end etches formed with wide wooden lolly pop sticks, saved blistering my dear little pinkies. Bend, solder, bend solder...little bit at a time.
Still some work to do on this with the details. I have cut out the all the bits that make up the footplate and that's next. Pretty pleased with the firebox.
Stay safe
Mike.