Cookie's Workbench - 7/8ths Alan Keef K40
- Thread starter Steve Cook
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Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Only the stuff I'd not fit DCC in (T, Z, 12mm TT and G3)Most ingenious though... and a testament to just how Scattergun some Member's interests actually are - is there any gauge you haven't covered, there..??!!??
I doubt very much I'll ever model in all of the options available, but for the sake of a length of rail and 30 mins to solder in place it seemed sensible. Looks cool too
Back to the garden...
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Would it be to connect a rolling road for this unit? (wondering if it would be useful for sound chips).... probably a daft question, but I'm still watching DCC with great interest from the sidelines 
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
I would have thought the NCE system will power a sound decoder on a rolling road Phill - you'll not be pulling much current at that point so its likely to be OK - Steph will be able to give you a better idea as he has spent more time with sound decoders than I have. One of the advantages of the NCE system is that it is renowned for being able to program just about everything decoder wise, not something that can be said of a lot of starter systems.
westernfan
Western Thunderer
Re the NCE and Roco hand sets ,which one do you find the most user friendly ? Also what type of wireless system does the Roco setup use ?
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Hi WF
I find the NCE system the most user friendly in terms of menu selection and operation (so far). However, the Multimaus handset is just the right size for me, smaller than the main NCE handset but larger than the second throttle I bought. To be fair though, I haven't given the Multimaus a proper run for its money yet, so making a comparison at this early stage probably isn't the best thing to do.
The wireless system is (quoting from the manual) "Stable wireless connection with digital wireless standard 'ZigBee' IEEE 802.15.4 with 2.4GHz". I hope that means something to you! As best as I can sum up, its a 2.4GHz zyztem that does not require line of sight etc for decent and stable communications.
Steve
I find the NCE system the most user friendly in terms of menu selection and operation (so far). However, the Multimaus handset is just the right size for me, smaller than the main NCE handset but larger than the second throttle I bought. To be fair though, I haven't given the Multimaus a proper run for its money yet, so making a comparison at this early stage probably isn't the best thing to do.
The wireless system is (quoting from the manual) "Stable wireless connection with digital wireless standard 'ZigBee' IEEE 802.15.4 with 2.4GHz". I hope that means something to you! As best as I can sum up, its a 2.4GHz zyztem that does not require line of sight etc for decent and stable communications.
Steve
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Spelling mistakes aside (must have come over all German ), 2.4GHz is the same as that used for RC aircraft and cars - they can fly behind buildings or trees and drive behind full size cars without issue, its the same for the railway system. The receiver locks onto the signal from the transmitter and you're away. I've no idea how it works (or any desire to find out TBH) but it does - the only line of sight required is between the operator and the loco he is controlling towards the buffer stops
Steve
), 2.4GHz is the same as that used for RC aircraft and cars - they can fly behind buildings or trees and drive behind full size cars without issue, its the same for the railway system. The receiver locks onto the signal from the transmitter and you're away. I've no idea how it works (or any desire to find out TBH) but it does - the only line of sight required is between the operator and the loco he is controlling towards the buffer stops Steve
westernfan
Western Thunderer
thanks for the heads up on the wireless spec
, so its street legal in the UK ? bit like the am v fm CB scenario wayback when. Must admit the NCE speed control section using the inc and dec fast buttons works very well with a well set up sound decoder one push and the diesel engine notches down or in the case of a kettle the regulator shuts off steam.
, so its street legal in the UK ? bit like the am v fm CB scenario wayback when. Must admit the NCE speed control section using the inc and dec fast buttons works very well with a well set up sound decoder one push and the diesel engine notches down or in the case of a kettle the regulator shuts off steam.
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
No worries WFthanks for the heads up on the wireless spec
As far as I am aware, it is legal for use in the UK (based on the premise that it can be bought directly from UK retailers). I'll be honest, I've been waiting a long time for someone to make a decent, UK legal wireless DCC system - it struck me that it was a large gap in the market and I was surprised no-one had filled it. I've bought the first one thats come along - I would have done so whoever had made it though (a little bit of me wishes it had been NCE, just for compatibility with what I already have).
westernfan
Western Thunderer
Yes too early to really compare, and no doubt the Roco setup is also a good bit of kit . Ive had my power cab for a little over 6 months now and still havent discovered all of its potential one thing i had to buy was the holster for the hand unit as you say its a bit large.
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
The prospect of getting a chance this weekend to run Ragleth on a continuous circuit has seen her stripped down for an overall health check and clean. The main intention was to just nip up the eight screws holding the valve chests to the top of the cylinders - I noticed that whilst still cold, steam oil could be seen weeping out of the joint. However, by the time I'd actually got access to the screws, most of it was apart anyway! Its all had a quick clean, nuts and bolts checked for tightness and the dome polished - everything seems OK so she can go back together tomorrow evening.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Just remember when it goes back together make sure you dont have any bits left over
Rob
Rob
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
This is Steve we are talking about here: those pieces haven't been neatly arrayed just for the photo, you know - he (usually) does it like that anyway.Just remember when it goes back together make sure you dont have any bits left over
Rob
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
I'll do my best RobJust remember when it goes back together make sure you dont have any bits left over
Fortunately, there weren't too many screws to take out (or remember where they went) Yes is the honest answer CME, although loose might be stretching it a bit - more of not quite tight enough. Of the eight screws, two were fine and the other six needed up to a maximum of 1/8th of a turn. It only showed during the first few minutes of running - as soon as the chests and cylinders were up to full temp the slight weeping went away. How much of it is down to paper / fibre gaskets and how much down to thermal expansion properties of differing materials I don't know - hopefully all fixed now though - rock on Saturday
OCD disassembly - my secret is out
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Little and large on the workbench this weekend, the former being a body for the 2mm FS chassis I've posted photos of on the Larkrail challenge thread, the latter being a Slaters MR Van that has been in primer for too long.
Unfortunately its still just in primer, I was going to start on the transfers and hadn't realised they were Methfix - and I hadn't got any meths I've added some to the shopping list for this week and just blackened the wheels instead. Shown here with the little 'un
The 2mm wagon has had one of the associations plastic body kits glued together and an etched roof fitted - the body is being left separate from the chassis to aid painting for the moment.
Working in 2mm has highlighted a few problems areas for me, namely the need to hold things whilst soldering or gluing together. I have no idea who to thank for this simple but effective tool, but its brilliant - a piece of wood, half a wooden clothes peg and a cocktail stick. Its shown here holding the van body upside down to ensure a close fit of the roof on one side.
The bigger project this weekend, in scope if not size, has been the assembly of a Peco O gauge GWR 8t ballast wagon. Nice kit, went together well and the only mucking around was to remove the oversize hinges and replace with more scale versions having glued the side doors shut. Retrospectively I should probably have replaced the brake lever, but I didn't have one, so just glued everything together and enjoyed it.
It needs a wipe over the wheel treads to remove the primer and leave the blackened finish, then I can get on with the painting over the coming week (s).
Steve
Unfortunately its still just in primer, I was going to start on the transfers and hadn't realised they were Methfix - and I hadn't got any meths
I've added some to the shopping list for this week and just blackened the wheels instead. Shown here with the little 'unThe 2mm wagon has had one of the associations plastic body kits glued together and an etched roof fitted - the body is being left separate from the chassis to aid painting for the moment.
Working in 2mm has highlighted a few problems areas for me, namely the need to hold things whilst soldering or gluing together. I have no idea who to thank for this simple but effective tool, but its brilliant - a piece of wood, half a wooden clothes peg and a cocktail stick. Its shown here holding the van body upside down to ensure a close fit of the roof on one side.
The bigger project this weekend, in scope if not size, has been the assembly of a Peco O gauge GWR 8t ballast wagon. Nice kit, went together well and the only mucking around was to remove the oversize hinges and replace with more scale versions having glued the side doors shut. Retrospectively I should probably have replaced the brake lever, but I didn't have one, so just glued everything together and enjoyed it.
It needs a wipe over the wheel treads to remove the primer and leave the blackened finish, then I can get on with the painting over the coming week (s).
Steve
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Cheers CME
I'm sure the Pannier can be sorted, its just finding the time to do it, and the weather if I'm honest (I neglected to put any diodes in my programming track to create the shuttle function, may have to be retro-fit job) so the only place I can test it is outside - way too cold recently.
The Peco wagon was fun to build, it was Barry's article in MRJ200 that made me get the kit out and start building - I was tempted by the chain method he used as well, but decided this time around to just build the thing I dare say some careful filing around the hinges will reduce them enough, it was the amount they projected from the sides that I found the most offensive aspect. I'm intending to fill mine with ballast so have ignored the the unsightly join in the planks along the solebars - good effort on your behalf to fill them
Steve
I'm sure the Pannier can be sorted, its just finding the time to do it, and the weather if I'm honest (I neglected to put any diodes in my programming track to create the shuttle function, may have to be retro-fit job) so the only place I can test it is outside - way too cold recently.
The Peco wagon was fun to build, it was Barry's article in MRJ200 that made me get the kit out and start building - I was tempted by the chain method he used as well, but decided this time around to just build the thing
I dare say some careful filing around the hinges will reduce them enough, it was the amount they projected from the sides that I found the most offensive aspect. I'm intending to fill mine with ballast so have ignored the the unsightly join in the planks along the solebars - good effort on your behalf to fill them Steve
Steve Cook
Flying Squad
Another wagon, another scale
I'm in a dabbling phase at the moment, enjoying building and making things in different scales and with different materials - they all require slightly different techniques and ideas and its that part of the challenge that currently appeals.
This time round its an S scale Midland PO wagon. Its a resin body mounted on MJT rocking W irons with S Scale Society brass coupling hooks and whitemetal axleboxes /springs. The body was mastered by Maurice Hopper and the castings are available through the society. Maurice kindly sent me a copy of the drawing he used so I can copy the brake gear - in this instance a single wooden block and a long brake lever. A strip of phosphor bronze has been filed to shape for the brake lever and a piece of plasticard has become the brake block, the rest of the mounting system still needs fabricating, hopefully an easy enough job over a few evenings this week.
Steve
I'm in a dabbling phase at the moment, enjoying building and making things in different scales and with different materials - they all require slightly different techniques and ideas and its that part of the challenge that currently appeals.
This time round its an S scale Midland PO wagon. Its a resin body mounted on MJT rocking W irons with S Scale Society brass coupling hooks and whitemetal axleboxes /springs. The body was mastered by Maurice Hopper and the castings are available through the society. Maurice kindly sent me a copy of the drawing he used so I can copy the brake gear - in this instance a single wooden block and a long brake lever. A strip of phosphor bronze has been filed to shape for the brake lever and a piece of plasticard has become the brake block, the rest of the mounting system still needs fabricating, hopefully an easy enough job over a few evenings this week.
Steve
queensquare
Western Thunderer
That's a beauty Steve, what livery will it get? I had the good fortune to be able to study Maurice's St Juliot recently, its a little stunner and demonstrates the appeal of S to perfection.
Jerry
Jerry
adrian
Flying Squad
As you say it is very nice - I was very nearly swayed by S scale in my youth, more substance than 2mm but a bigger vista than 4mm. In the end the engineering possible in 7mm won the day for me but I can still appreciate what is still a predominately scratch builders scale - and in Christian units as well!