Looks like an occlusion mapped CAD modelD1000 relaxing after a spot of preshading with Panzer grey around the grills and shadow areas
View attachment 15698
, clever idea to pre darken shadow areas before the main coat, I like that train of thought!D1000 relaxing after a spot of preshading with Panzer grey around the grills and shadow areas
http://www.westernthunder.me.uk/index.php?attachments/img_1059-jpg.15698/
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Nice work on the cab/body/roof joints Cynric.
What material do you re-instate the rainstrips with please?
Regards
Dan




I can claim no originality for it Aero and military have done it for yearsCynric,
Your technique looks great - but I'd expect nothing less...
Steph

Evergreen strip .20x.20 irrc pre bend it to a hockeystick shape ( i have lasered an mdf former to check it against) then once it is well and truly set sand it back to make it .20x.10. the reason for doing it that way is thay you cant form the shape from .20x.10

........for the basis of a weathered version of this loco, I really like look of the desert sand as it is
. I like the way you have weathered the frills before adding top coat
. Nice and sunny here but very windy.
I can claim no originality for it Aero and military have done it for years
I did consider full modulation but i didnt feel a Wezzie was angular enough, having said that i used a darkened mix under the brow and the valance.
What sort of paint are you using? it is an easy technique as long as the paint for the top coat is thin.It still takes some care to make it work, I know as I've tried and failed! I'm convinced it'll add something to lift the relatively plain sides of the model...
Steph




i might dust a little white filter over the yellow to lighten it a tad and the edges by the marker light need sharpening, but it seems satisfactory. obvious tip here is not to fit the headboard clips etc until the masking has been done, if you are doing full yellow panel its a cakewalk. 
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