Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Well, it appears you have your trident/toasting fork ready for that eventuality...
Sorry, I'll get my hat.
Steph
TFW’s workshop
- Thread starter Tim Watson
- Start date
Well, it appears you have your trident/toasting fork ready for that eventuality...
Sorry, I'll get my hat.
Steph
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Remember making one of those at school.
Tim
Tim
A bit quicker than Mons Meg...
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Can you tell what it is yet?
Well it’s fairly obviously two sets of 2mm Scale Association etched rods. The one in the foreground is sold for the modern Farish Jinty conversion, whilst the rather more robust version is also sold for Farish conversions. I think that the one in the foreground is too delicate, being only 10 thou thick across the rods, as it is half etched both sides. Anyway, the thicker ones were used for the Farish Jinty conversion below:
After one days work, it now needs some couplings and weathering; the chimney has been replaced with a correct shaped casting. Quite ironic that the previous Grafar Jinty had a good chimney and poorly shaped dome. It runs really rather well, although I had to make new plain muffs, as the supplied ones were a touch too loose for my taste. All the running gear was chemically blackened before assembly. All in all, a really good introduction to making finescale locos - who would have thought that thirty years ago we would have such high quality commercial models available?
Tim
Well it’s fairly obviously two sets of 2mm Scale Association etched rods. The one in the foreground is sold for the modern Farish Jinty conversion, whilst the rather more robust version is also sold for Farish conversions. I think that the one in the foreground is too delicate, being only 10 thou thick across the rods, as it is half etched both sides. Anyway, the thicker ones were used for the Farish Jinty conversion below:
After one days work, it now needs some couplings and weathering; the chimney has been replaced with a correct shaped casting. Quite ironic that the previous Grafar Jinty had a good chimney and poorly shaped dome. It runs really rather well, although I had to make new plain muffs, as the supplied ones were a touch too loose for my taste. All the running gear was chemically blackened before assembly. All in all, a really good introduction to making finescale locos - who would have thought that thirty years ago we would have such high quality commercial models available?
Tim
Good value loupes
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
My students have sourced these loupes:
https://emea01.safelinks.protection...6yV/1VjZWSttS0u5fNsnZ6AYTNMKpipQs=&reserved=0
They are incredibly good value,
with reasonable optics. They cannot be fitted with prescription lenses, however. Obviously, not quite in the league of the ones I use, but the box is pretty good anyway!
Tim
https://emea01.safelinks.protection...6yV/1VjZWSttS0u5fNsnZ6AYTNMKpipQs=&reserved=0
They are incredibly good value,
with reasonable optics. They cannot be fitted with prescription lenses, however. Obviously, not quite in the league of the ones I use, but the box is pretty good anyway!
Tim
simond
Western Thunderer
It arrived, looks much like it does in the adverts, of course the hunky fashion model is not included...
It all appears to work as advertised, except I found that I had to adjust the convergence of the lens axes - it says “don’t” in the instructions, which are predictably Chinglish - to have a satisfactory stereo view. I’ve not used it in anger yet, but it certainly gives a very good view of small things.
The light is more than powerful enough, it is nearly good on minimum setting, and is really too bright on max.
Field of view is predictably tiny, fingertips, not hands, and the acceptable depth of focus is a bit further away than I’m used to when wearing my usual specs. That’s not an issue, just need to get used to it.
I’m tempted to make a block to fit a spare pair of my usual specs, and bolt the binoculars to them. This would mean that I could use my prescription lenses too. Not sure what effect that would have, probably increase mag and bring the focus closer, I think.
Initial conclusions are that it’s much better than the headband thing I have, and it’ll therefore get rather more use.
Thanks to Tim for the pointer.
Simon
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Absolutely no reason why you shouldn't adjust the convergeance Simon. The way to check that you have them set well is to put your two thumbs together at the working focal point. Close one eye and the thumbs should stay still, ditto for the other eye. Having coaxial illumination is a major boon. Loupes can give you a better posture because they encourage you not to stoop over your work.
Tim
Tim
Poor relation to signals
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
Telegraph poles are often a bit of a Cinderella subject on model railways. On top of Gasworks Tunnel there was the mother and father of a telegraph pole that probably terminated some of the wires before sending them down through the tunnels. In fact the base of it still in-situ.
I played around with this and other images to try and work out what the pole consisted of. We are very fortunate that Bob Jones made some rather good telegraph cross arms to our design many years ago and these can be adapted quite well to a number of configurations. The pole was made from brass rod turned to a long taper, suitable length cross arms were added, soldered on at 90 degrees to each other, as well as bits of brass for the wiring conduits and other bits. The pole is firmly located in the ground of the tunnel top (it may remain a removable item), whilst the railed fence leading up to it was made from square brass section and rod, again well fixed into the ground. There was very little painting, as the pieces were chemically blacked and then dry brush weathered.
Cecily thinks that a mascara brush would have been just as good. Maybe she has a point.
Tim
I played around with this and other images to try and work out what the pole consisted of. We are very fortunate that Bob Jones made some rather good telegraph cross arms to our design many years ago and these can be adapted quite well to a number of configurations. The pole was made from brass rod turned to a long taper, suitable length cross arms were added, soldered on at 90 degrees to each other, as well as bits of brass for the wiring conduits and other bits. The pole is firmly located in the ground of the tunnel top (it may remain a removable item), whilst the railed fence leading up to it was made from square brass section and rod, again well fixed into the ground. There was very little painting, as the pieces were chemically blacked and then dry brush weathered.
Cecily thinks that a mascara brush would have been just as good. Maybe she has a point.
Tim
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
The fun starts once you add the wires ....
....
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Tim,
Chris recently painted that very pole seen here in the late 1930's
Chris recently painted that very pole seen here in the late 1930's
Started new engine 11/11/2018
Tim Watson
Western Thunderer
There were a number of memorial engines specifically so named after the Great War. One of these was Valour, made by the Great Central Railway. It’s name plate commemorated the employees lost during the conflict.
These engines have always been one of my favourites and very appropriate for Copenhagen Fields.
So this will be my next 2mm scale engine. Made a start on the tender frames this evening, so that at least I will remember when the model was started.
Tim
These engines have always been one of my favourites and very appropriate for Copenhagen Fields.
So this will be my next 2mm scale engine. Made a start on the tender frames this evening, so that at least I will remember when the model was started.
Tim
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warren haywood
Western Thunderer
And this is Chris Warfords (Severnmill) version
