7mm 7mm Mick's Workbench - JLTRT Royal Scot

[mickoo]

Which

Is the kit designed around any particular motor/gearbox Mick?

Cheers
Tony

No that’s down to the users personal choice and as such their own fixing mounts will need devised and fabricating. The woe MOK went through with being wedded to ABC was a prominent reflection aspect.

 

[dibateg]

Which

No that’s down to the users personal choice and as such their own fixing mounts will need devised and fabricating. The woe MOK went through with being wedded to ABC was a prominent reflection aspect.

I fitted an MSC Chaplin 40:1 in my DJH/Piercy B1, so all things being equal the same unit will fit in yours...

Regards
Tony

 

[mickoo]

Quick phone photo of Micks B1 backhead test build, studio shots when I get back in a few days.

 

[7mmMick]

I fitted an MSC Chaplin 40:1 in my DJH/Piercy B1, so all things being equal the same unit will fit in yours...

Regards
Tony

Morning Tony, I've used an ABC Maxon, I have one of the gearboxes designed for the Rover and that fits well so I will most likely fit that. A ABC mini gearbox would world well too and I forget the MSC equivalent, but that of course would work too

 

[7mmMick]

With the B1 awaiting the final small castings it was time to make some headway into some commission work. Of the builds on the books I’m either waiting for wheels or etch work so it makes sense to make a start on 46140, Kings Royal Rifle Corps in early 50’s condition.

https://flic.kr/p/Tm1ZkZ

The etch work in the kit is of the later JLTRT range and not inherited from other legacy ranges. It’s very nice and fits well. The footplate folds up on a cradle to help keep everything square and true.

A couple of bits to watch out for, the instructions point out that the footplate is short at the rear where the cab meets the main footplate. I filled up a 0.4mm filler piece


Next onto the cab, which is a fold up affair with overlays for the external cab. At this point it’s worth adding some cab details to keep everything neat and tidy and also a test for of the backhead. I also drilled out the floor as I always like a mechanical fixing to allow the backhead to be removed. I’ll add the plate with nuts and screws later in the build


And some final photos of the cab and footplate overlays fitted. Onto the front end detail next

 

[7mmMick]

The challenge at the moment with this build is that I won’t have the Harris wheels to complete the loco until October. There is plenty to do in the mean time though so I have been concentrating on preparing the frames as much as possible. There were a lot of castings to clean up, which was very time consuming. Some are not quite perfect and with the range being unavailable at the minute I’m stuck with what I have so some filling and repair was needed. The frame plates were tacked together and cleaned up and then drilled on a jig for the axle box springs which need to be removable. They’re secured with 12Ba countersink screws. I modified some Finney Hornblocks to represent that on the Scot, the drawings from the Wildswan books helped here. The instructions show another type but they weren’t in the kit.
I then attached the frame stretchers I could ready for final assembly. I can’t go much further as the loco will have working centre cylinder and inside motion and I’ve yet to get my head around this. I noticed that @Ian@StEnochs fitted this detail on your build. Do you have any pictures that could help me visualise the drawings please. I’ve searched high and low for detail shots inside the frames of the preserved locos but to no avail sadly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any way, the basic frames so far

Next I cracked on with the cylinder block. Again plenty of nice castings to clean up, the slide bars took some cleaning and polishing ! I don’t like the cast piston rod so cut it off and drilled out the cross head to accept 1.8mm N/S wire. I then used corresponding tube inside the stuffing gland to ensure nice free movement. It’s a bit of a faff but a nicer job in the long run



The remainder of the cylinder block went together well. I won’t take this further as yet until I can be sure all is aligned properly

And finally I’ve built the bogie. The centre casting is nice but not square so needed some filling and fettling to say the least. The bogie looks a nice representation of the prototype

And finally the frames thus far


I’m now pausing the frames and will make a start on the tender

Any help with inside frame photographs will be much appreciated team WT

 

[7mmMick]

And onto the tender we go. I should be able to get well into this build without wheels. A fairly straightforward build so far. A nice solid box for the tender tank. I ran into a couple of issues that are worth mentioning. The angle
strip along the top of the frames needs to be scored and folded, like many parts with the tender. If you’re building one you need a sharp scribe and straight edge. The angle needs to fit around the strengthening webs but I couldn’t make it work so opted to cut sections out for ease, this made for a much neater job.




The rest went together to the basic structure stage very well. The rear bulkhead is just sat in for now. There’s the odd bit of fettling needed to get an accurate fit of parts but nothing major. The sloping section didn’t fit properly so I broke it off and filed back and reattached. A bit of a pain but easy to sort



And the tender thus far

More soon hopefully, the sun is shining though so reduced bench time

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

The challenge at the moment with this build is that I won’t have the Harris wheels to complete the loco until October. There is plenty to do in the mean time though so I have been concentrating on preparing the frames as much as possible. There were a lot of castings to clean up, which was very time consuming. Some are not quite perfect and with the range being unavailable at the minute I’m stuck with what I have so some filling and repair was needed. The frame plates were tacked together and cleaned up and then drilled on a jig for the axle box springs which need to be removable. They’re secured with 12Ba countersink screws. I modified some Finney Hornblocks to represent that on the Scot, the drawings from the Wildswan books helped here. The instructions show another type but they weren’t in the kit. View attachment 266666
I then attached the frame stretchers I could ready for final assembly. I can’t go much further as the loco will have working centre cylinder and inside motion and I’ve yet to get my head around this. I noticed that @Ian@StEnochs fitted this detail on your build. Do you have any pictures that could help me visualise the drawings please. I’ve searched high and low for detail shots inside the frames of the preserved locos but to no avail sadly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Any way, the basic frames so far
View attachment 266667
Next I cracked on with the cylinder block. Again plenty of nice castings to clean up, the slide bars took some cleaning and polishing ! I don’t like the cast piston rod so cut it off and drilled out the cross head to accept 1.8mm N/S wire. I then used corresponding tube inside the stuffing gland to ensure nice free movement. It’s a bit of a faff but a nicer job in the long run
View attachment 266668
View attachment 266669
View attachment 266670
The remainder of the cylinder block went together well. I won’t take this further as yet until I can be sure all is aligned properly
View attachment 266671
And finally I’ve built the bogie. The centre casting is nice but not square so needed some filling and fettling to say the least. The bogie looks a nice representation of the prototype
View attachment 266672
And finally the frames thus far
View attachment 266673
View attachment 266674
I’m now pausing the frames and will make a start on the tender

Any help with inside frame photographs will be much appreciated team WT

Sorry to disappoint Mick but I made the inside cylinder non working. There are so many bits blocking the view, splashers, lubricators etc and it’s gloomy in there so I decided that a cosmetic approximation would be fine. I had sight inside a jubilee inside gear which helped. When the engine is static nothing moves and when the engine moves you cannot see if the gear is moving or not.

I have a wee stock of spare Scot castings if any of yours are defective or missing! Just pm me.

Ian.