7mm Another attempt

[Joe's Garage]

Thank you Dave, again GE influence! Ideal for the tram loco.
Yes Simon I will have a go once back in UK, we have an olive harvest to finish in November beforehand,
Cheers
Julian

 

[Joe's Garage]

A question about these type of platforms, what height would they be?
Thanks
Julian

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

Judging by the photgraphs of the other halts on the Thaxted branch I would have said around 45 cm (18 inches) above ground level.

Henham - also looks interesting for the wood and ash/gravel surface. Sibleys. Mill Road.

 

[Joe's Garage]

Sorry for the belated reply Dave but thank you for that info.
Cheers
Julian

 

[Joe's Garage]

After many distractions and of course the very cold weather I have done a little bit more to the layout. A “little” being the operative word!
The switching and operation of the engine release point had me contemplating the different options. But as you can see I opted for a simple DPDT switch, because I have a few, set into the thin board with code 100 rail soldered to 3 mm copper clad sleepering. Hopefully this will be strong enough to work but now I can run the locos through.
A very simple above board point operation system for a very simple layout me thinks!

 

[Joe's Garage]

I am very much one who likes to recycle so in these two pictures you can see I have added the sleepers, made from coffee stirrers but of course I am sure Captain (?) Yolland from the Railway Inspectorate would have had something to say about the quality of these before allowing passenger operations!
The wooden buffer stops are from the earlier attempt of a simple shunting layout, some fine wooden strip I picked up from somewhere.

 

[Joe's Garage]

I thought it was about time to install the check rails on the points but then I hit an obstacle, well not actually me, it was the tram loco. The old Lima chassis uses very coarse wheels set at about 28 something BBs and was not able to negotiate the point. So out came my trusty Vernier gauge and I eased the wheel sets out to closer to 29mm. I could have gone further but I think they are splined on. Only pushed through the crossing but will try power later.



I was brought up on trusty old style caliper gauges, and like the tram would not part with this set. A very versatile measuring tool and accurate enough for 7mm FS I thinks.

Trouble is I measured the track gauge at the crossing on this old point and somehow it is closer to 33mm. My turned gauges must be oversize or when I built these points I did not allow for the slightly thinner rail section. Something I have learnt along the way is you cannot keep re heating the copper clad sleepers too often as I have done, so the gauge will have to remain.

Lessons learnt.....

Julian

 

[daifly]

Trouble is I measured the track gauge at the crossing on this old point and somehow it is closer to 33mm.

Welcome to ScaleSeven!
Dave

 

[Allen M]

Julian
The risk with just pulling the wheel out is much side slop and possible reduced engagement with the narrow gears and resultant stripping.
I have done several over the years by polling of the none drive side adding a washer and refitting the wheel. The washer can be any material, I normally made one from plasticard of the required thickness.

Regards
Allen

 

[Joe's Garage]

I like that Dave but not this little layout.

Thanks for the warning Allen, I have not finished this little mod yet so will have another go. I will check the mesh.
I presume the gear wheel is part of the driven wheel?
Julian

 

[Allen M]

I presume the gear wheel is part of the driven wheel?Joe

Yes the gear is part of the plastic molded (with metal rim) wheel. Another way to add the spacer is with out removing the wheel completely is to cut a plastic washer with the correct axle size then remove a bit of material and force over like a 'C' clip.
Regards
Allen

 

[Joe's Garage]

Welcome to ScaleSeven!
Dave

Many moons ago I picked up a set of 3 hole disc wheels which do look very fine scale.
I don't think they are S7 but the back to backs are closer to 30mm.
Can anyone help identify this please, I have two axles.
Hopefully you can read my dimensions!




Julian

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

They look like Alan Gibson 7mm wheels.

 

[Scale7JB]

Looks to me like the wheel at the bottom of the picture isn't fully home on the axle where you can see a gap? Push it home and i'd hazard a guess it'll go back to Finescale Back to Back measurement.

JB.

 

[Joe's Garage]

Thanks for that guys, I may not even use them as they are later style wheels for my period.
Julian

 

[Joe's Garage]

Just a couple of photos to show that some progress is being made on this layout. I managed to get out to the "garage" to give the track a coat of black paint and put a road crossing to give an entrance to the station, if you could call it that. Walking our daughter's dog during the week takes us close to the old WCPR trail and I became interested in the building at Wick St Lawrence. Further enquiries gave me details of the building and the way the road crossed the line. Thank you Andrew for the information. I will not claim to be attempting an exact replica but something based upon.

The piece of card is the footprint. The road is only plaster with a dark wash over it with wooden coffee stirrers as planks. More detail to follow later. I know it looks a mess at the moment!




Cheers
Julian

 

[jonte]

That’s a ‘neat’ crossing, Julian (seems I’m going all American!), and the grimy dark colour of the track looks spot on to me.

I meant to ask: I like the simplicity of your TOU, and was wondering whether there’s any over-throw in the switch when it’s switched?

Best,

Jon

 

[Joe's Garage]

Hi Jon
Thanks for that. In answer to the point operation it is just a simple DPDT switch which has about the same throw as the switch rails. I think if there was any overthrow the wire loop/rails have a little give to compensate. Guess with 4mm I would use an Omega loop. The switch is quite tight so will hold point, not sure about long term will just have to see.
I have now got to think of a way to hide both. Under board operation might have been more sensible but I just want to get trains running easily.
There are many impressive lever frame versions on this forum which give much inspiration.
On the US theme that was a lovely crossing sign you made....hmmmm an O gauge SW1 would look quite good, must resist!
Cheers
Julian

 

[jonte]

Hi Jon
Thanks for that. In answer to the point operation it is just a simple DPDT switch which has about the same throw as the switch rails. I think if there was any overthrow the wire loop/rails have a little give to compensate. Guess with 4mm I would use an Omega loop. The switch is quite tight so will hold point, not sure about long term will just have to see.
I have now got to think of a way to hide both. Under board operation might have been more sensible but I just want to get trains running easily.
There are many impressive lever frame versions on this forum which give much inspiration.
On the US theme that was a lovely crossing sign you made....hmmmm an O gauge SW1 would look quite good, must resist!
Cheers
Julian

I see; thanks, Julian. I prefer simple myself, too, so I’m with you on that score. The benefits of the Senior scale, hey, Julian ?

I’m glad you liked the sign. More ‘flavour’ than scale though.

As for the SW1: I’m sure I’ve one somewhere or other but in HO I’m afraid. Yet another import!

As for resisting………….

Keep up the good work.

Jon

 

[Phil O]

I have used DPDT slide switches for point operation on several club exhibition layouts. Use one set of terminals to change the frog polarity. An omega loop takes up any overthrow in 00 and N gauge.