7mm Dikitriki's Dark side: A WD 2-8-0
- Thread starter Dikitriki
- Start date
demu1037
Western Thunderer
and five items "progressing" simultaneously!
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi folks
The holidays are over, the Presflos are packed away until next year, my live steam G1 interest bubble is back in orbit, and attention has returned to the rescue of the Patriot, Llandudno.
I'd left it with the chassis mainframes ready to assemble. All the spacers were prepared and the chassis built on a Hobby Holidays chassis jig. All went well, and there's no trace of rock on the fixed axles. I can't add the centre sprung wheelset as it won't sit flat until the weighted body is added!
Now I had to work out how I was going to mount the body in the absence of a footplate.
2 screws under the cab, though I don't know if they will still be accessible once the injectors and pipework are fitted.
and one screw between the cylinders into the smokebox saddle, which of course meant I had to build the cylinder unit first. Which means I had to work out how to make it dismantleable. Here I came across my first problem - the cylinder wrappers were neither long enough nor wide enough. OK, no problem, I just cut some more from sheet brass and rivetted them in the same pattern.
You can also see the washers over the fixing point so that the screw can be tightened without distorting the white-metal smokebox.
Next is to make a plate to fit inside the smokebox..........
The holidays are over, the Presflos are packed away until next year, my live steam G1 interest bubble is back in orbit, and attention has returned to the rescue of the Patriot, Llandudno.
I'd left it with the chassis mainframes ready to assemble. All the spacers were prepared and the chassis built on a Hobby Holidays chassis jig. All went well, and there's no trace of rock on the fixed axles. I can't add the centre sprung wheelset as it won't sit flat until the weighted body is added!
Now I had to work out how I was going to mount the body in the absence of a footplate.
2 screws under the cab, though I don't know if they will still be accessible once the injectors and pipework are fitted.
and one screw between the cylinders into the smokebox saddle, which of course meant I had to build the cylinder unit first. Which means I had to work out how to make it dismantleable. Here I came across my first problem - the cylinder wrappers were neither long enough nor wide enough. OK, no problem, I just cut some more from sheet brass and rivetted them in the same pattern.
You can also see the washers over the fixing point so that the screw can be tightened without distorting the white-metal smokebox.
Next is to make a plate to fit inside the smokebox..........
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
......The plate inside the smokebox...... allows a nut to be soldered to a brass plate formed to the correct radius, which is then soldered in with 100 deg solder. This gives a good strong mounting, with no chance of the nut coming adrift.
All 3 screws tightened, the body is level and perpendicular as necessary, and a major milestone has been reached. I now have a base on which I can build the separate footplates.
And now the second problem rears its head. The designer got the length of the rear footplate under the cab wrong and I have a 'mind the gap' moment.
I also don't like the half etched lines (in the wrong place) to 'assist' in forming the curves. I shall build the footplate and insert an additional piece later, and fill the half-etched lines that remain visible.
The plan now is to do the 2 'main' footplate halves, attach those to the smokebox and firebox, add the valances and finally the front footplate.....probably.
Cheers
Richard
All 3 screws tightened, the body is level and perpendicular as necessary, and a major milestone has been reached. I now have a base on which I can build the separate footplates.
And now the second problem rears its head. The designer got the length of the rear footplate under the cab wrong and I have a 'mind the gap' moment.
I also don't like the half etched lines (in the wrong place) to 'assist' in forming the curves. I shall build the footplate and insert an additional piece later, and fill the half-etched lines that remain visible.
The plan now is to do the 2 'main' footplate halves, attach those to the smokebox and firebox, add the valances and finally the front footplate.....probably.
Cheers
Richard
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
.....surely you mean 'simples'.
Looking forward to seeing the next update.
cheers
Mike
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi
Not too much was happening to the Patriot body as I wanted to see what Andy's etch looked like before I started on the footplate. In the meantime I fitted the overlays to the chassis.....
Not quite as straightforward as it ought to have been as they were not the same size as the mainframes. So I had to fiddle with adjusting the cut outs and it was a bit frustrating. You can see that it is generally smaller all round looking at the front of the chassis and the cut outs for the bogie wheels....
I shalln't loose a lot of sleep, but it shouldn't have happened.
Andy came to the running session on Thursday, and presented me with some spare etches from his Scot kit. the hope was that the footplates would be the same, but of course they are not.
The Scot is longer and the valances are a different shape. However the main part of the footplate is of use. The wheel centres are the same, so I could use the fold up splasher fronts, and use it to space out my half-footplate parts as overlays....
Here the valances and front and rear footplates have been removed, and one of my original 'overlays' has been soldered on. If I've got it right, there is a rebate for the front footplate and the valances can abut the Scot's footplate....
The problem I have now is that the bottom of the smokebox is round, and below the footplate level, so the front 'spacer' will have to be bridged and removed to allow it to sit properly.
It will be a miracle if everything is in the right place after all this
Finally, I have sorted out the front of the valances where it got the PO clout. It took a while to force it back to the right shape and work out the fold marks, bit I got there in the end.
Now to have a think about footplate location.
Cheers
Richard
Not too much was happening to the Patriot body as I wanted to see what Andy's etch looked like before I started on the footplate. In the meantime I fitted the overlays to the chassis.....
Not quite as straightforward as it ought to have been as they were not the same size as the mainframes. So I had to fiddle with adjusting the cut outs and it was a bit frustrating. You can see that it is generally smaller all round looking at the front of the chassis and the cut outs for the bogie wheels....
I shalln't loose a lot of sleep, but it shouldn't have happened.
Andy came to the running session on Thursday, and presented me with some spare etches from his Scot kit. the hope was that the footplates would be the same, but of course they are not.
The Scot is longer and the valances are a different shape. However the main part of the footplate is of use. The wheel centres are the same, so I could use the fold up splasher fronts, and use it to space out my half-footplate parts as overlays....
Here the valances and front and rear footplates have been removed, and one of my original 'overlays' has been soldered on. If I've got it right, there is a rebate for the front footplate and the valances can abut the Scot's footplate....
The problem I have now is that the bottom of the smokebox is round, and below the footplate level, so the front 'spacer' will have to be bridged and removed to allow it to sit properly.
It will be a miracle if everything is in the right place after all this
Finally, I have sorted out the front of the valances where it got the PO clout. It took a while to force it back to the right shape and work out the fold marks, bit I got there in the end.
Now to have a think about footplate location.
Cheers
Richard
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
She's coming together really well Richard, I also agree about the frame overlays, once it's all together painted and weathered I bet you won't notice the slight difference. I have I say that in the past I've steered away from 'part builds' as I hate sorting out the bits I don't like but having watched a few if your rescue jobs it seems to be the way forward, especially if its a kit you can't get anymore. I would have thought the valance was too far gone with the damage caused but it all looks great 
are you able to share your selection criteria, when is a project too far gone to rescue and in your opinion not economically viable ? looking forward to the next instalment
ATB Mick
are you able to share your selection criteria, when is a project too far gone to rescue and in your opinion not economically viable ? looking forward to the next instalment ATB Mick
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi
I'm thinking about Mick's question; I'll reply when I've worked it out.
In the meantime, I have spent a chunk of today working on the footplate....
You can see that I have bridged the footplate at the front, and removed the base material and added the 4 splasher tops from Sheet nickel silver. It's been a time-comsuming task as I have had to screw the chassis to the body after each operation and check repeatedly that each component is tailored to fit. On, off, on off etc. But it had to be done and I am now at the stage where I can solder the footplate to the main body.
I've got one shot at this...... I'm going in........
Richard
I'm thinking about Mick's question; I'll reply when I've worked it out.
In the meantime, I have spent a chunk of today working on the footplate....
You can see that I have bridged the footplate at the front, and removed the base material and added the 4 splasher tops from Sheet nickel silver. It's been a time-comsuming task as I have had to screw the chassis to the body after each operation and check repeatedly that each component is tailored to fit. On, off, on off etc. But it had to be done and I am now at the stage where I can solder the footplate to the main body.
I've got one shot at this...... I'm going in........
Richard
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
As always Richard your work is superb I'm particularly impressed with the cylinders very very neat
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
She's coming together really well Richard, I also agree about the frame overlays, once it's all together painted and weathered I bet you won't notice the slight difference. I have I say that in the past I've steered away from 'part builds' as I hate sorting out the bits I don't like but having watched a few if your rescue jobs it seems to be the way forward, especially if its a kit you can't get anymore. I would have thought the valance was too far gone with the damage caused but it all looks great
ATB Mick
Hi Mick
I'm really not convinced it's the best way to go, but Tony has the right of it, I'm a sucker for a 'bargain' which can, of course, turn into anything but. If you want an unavailable kit, you may not have a choice in the matter though.
With regard to the current Patriot, it's one of my favourite locos in its original form, and I had had enough Chowbent Kits through my hands to believe it would form a good model. I think there are in fact 2 main criteria. First, is it a bargain? Second, if it is fairly priced, is it well-built enough to save me time? So it's got to save me money or time, but rarely both. The Patriot falls into the first category. It was a bargain. Kit, milled rods, all wheels, nameplates, Griffin backhead (OK, for a Stanier loco, but that can be used elsewhere), Slater's hornblocks, a few other detailing bits for £260. The chassis had not been started which was a big plus, and I thought (wrongly) that the body and tender had been built well enough for me to tinker with and finish off. I had not bargained for the PO clout, and that rather forced my hand into a complete rebuild. So it will be a better model, but almost certainly more time consuming. I find it a fun challenge and I also think it hones skills with a bit of scratch-building and lateral thinking.
When buying, I always ask for a set of full-size high resolution photos. If they won't provide, I don't buy. You can get a good idea of the builder's standards from these. Is there any excess solder? Is the build square? Are the fittings nicely cleaned up? I'm not too bothered about the valve gear as I shall almost certainly rebuild it from other sources. Same with the brake gear. In fact, it's a bonus if I use anything other than the mainframes and cylinder formers.
The other Patriot (Gladiator lady Godiva) falls into the second category. I think fairly priced at £770. I have rebuilt the chassis (through choice rather than necessity), but the body is really well-built and painted, as is the tender, so I shall only tinker with the body (new backhead, lubricators and a bit of local repainting and renumber) and it has saved me some 100 hours plus work perhaps.
My latest purchase is from a builder known to me. While he does things different to the way I do, his building and painting is nevertheless good. It's a L&Y 2-4-2 tank, RG7, milled rods, already chipped, great for Heyside and after a 3 hour tinker with extra pick ups and a bit of a rewire, it's ready to go....for £350 - both a bargain and a time-saver. I'll grab a pic when it brightens up. All I intend to do is to weather it. It will receive any extra detailing (and there isn't much in the first place) when I build the one I had from you.
Cheers
Richard
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Thanks John. They did turn out well. The advantage of making the wrappers yourself is that they can be made marginally over-wide and filed back once fitted, giving a really neat appearance. I do spend a lot of time making sure that the wrappers exactly match the formers before soldering, rather than trying to pull them to shape as I go.
Richard
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Thanks Richard. When put this way it all makes perfect sense, especially when it's such a bargain. As you say it does look fun and extremely rewarding when you've taken something to bits with the micro flame, made good any damage and then get a finished article that looks great. I must try and get to more shows and have a good look around the second hand bits. I remember a few years ago turning down a K3 like Tony's as it had been built poorly and at the time I thought it was too far gone. In reality I could have bought it and done a Dikitriki to it
next time I'll have more courage. Looking forward to seeing the L&Y tank ATB Mick
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Right.....back on the Patriot.
The footplate is fitted, level and square, and judging from the splashers, in the right place Getting there now I think. I have checked the valances against the footplate, and I'm about .75mm too long in the footplate (better that way round). A little bit of filing at the front of the footplate will cure that, but in truth, I'm pretty pleased to be that close.
Valances next and then a rather sorry looking front footplate.
Cheers
Richard
The footplate is fitted, level and square, and judging from the splashers, in the right place
Getting there now I think. I have checked the valances against the footplate, and I'm about .75mm too long in the footplate (better that way round). A little bit of filing at the front of the footplate will cure that, but in truth, I'm pretty pleased to be that close.Valances next and then a rather sorry looking front footplate.
Cheers
Richard
Jon Fitness
Western Thunderer
That radial tank...gorgeous loco! Is it a scratchbuild or Lanky kits or something else?
Only things that don't look quite right to my untrained eyes are the front number plate and the bunkerside numbers. Is it me or are they a little small?
JF
Only things that don't look quite right to my untrained eyes are the front number plate and the bunkerside numbers. Is it me or are they a little small?
JF