Fredmeister does it again!
- Thread starter Simon
- Start date
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Big coaches
Also - completely personal view - but 1:32 is a sensible scale as it is based on halving proportions (half of a half of a half of a half of a half) and the human eye is very good at bisecting angles, but not very good at dividing angles by strange numbers like 43.5428751...
Ah, thanks.28ten said:
Well, compared to the real thing it never was, but this is more an indication that you have got used to the proportions, etc.I am itching to get my hands on onemaybe its me, but 7mm just doesnt seem big anymore
Also - completely personal view - but 1:32 is a sensible scale as it is based on halving proportions (half of a half of a half of a half of a half) and the human eye is very good at bisecting angles, but not very good at dividing angles by strange numbers like 43.5428751...
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Big coaches
If you are used to 4mm with the large range of RTR, bits and kits, or 7mm with the growing range of RTR, and lots of kits and bits, then you might find Gauge 1 a bit of a shock. It might be a pleasant shock in some respects.
Firstly, a lot of British outline stuff is to the "Greenly" scale of 10mm to the foot, rather than 3/8" to the foot which is so close to being the correct scale for the track gauge one wonders why anyone changed it (I am aware of the supposed reasons, but I think it was down to lazy profiteering not anything else*). This is changing, but new entrants to the marketplace have been caught out by talking to diehards in the G1 world, and have regretted going for 10mm scale and tooling up for it. Worldwide, 1:32 rules and since Aster only produce to 1:32 scale nowadays, then the UK is falling back into step. Gradually!
Secondly, some of the manufacturers have been a bit skimpy in their research. As an example, the Gauge 1 Model Co. 16T mineral wagons are 4" short, as the 16'6" over the headstocks has been applied over the bodywork - including the 4" strengthening piece on the end door. In itself, this can be disguised a bit, but the wheelbase is centred on the over-body dimension, so is off centre. Not by a lot, and many do not notice, but once you have noticed, you cannot but fail to notice it forever more.
Thirdly, there is quite a lot of stuff (compared to S scale!) but a lot less than in 7mm scale. Also, you will find W-irons in whitemetal when brass or nickel silver are much more sensible options.
Fourthly, if you want to produce finescale 2-rail models, a lot of people will tell you that they won't/can't run outdoors. Since N gauge works outdoors, with smaller flanges and much, much lighter stock, this is nonsense. You will need to spring or compensate everything, though. In this scale, springing is quite easy.
However, there are more and more kits of high quality coming onto the market, and the scale is of a sufficient size that injection-moulded resin is strong enough for wagon and loco bodies, and the economies of scale suit the likely demand, too. Etchings can be of scale thickness and still be structurally strong. Some of the components (e.g. Ken Martin's screw couplings) are simply sublime.
If you need to have things made for you, this is probably the wrong scale, but if you are interested then the best thing to do is to visit the G1MRA AGM in Woking (you will need a member to sign you in, but the entrance fee is very small) at the end of November, and to have a look around at the trade, and take a view on whether or not you think there is sufficient available to suit your needs.
If you want to make things for yourself, then it is a great scale to work in, something which you can only get a feel for by giving it a go.
You don't actually need many parts to build a model railway: wheels, axleguards (w-irons), axle box and spring castings, buffers, couplings and brakes are about it, and they are all available...
Anyway, for those thinking about a dabble, whilst I welcome growth in this form of self-satisfaction (ooer missus!) I think it best to be open, honest and fair.
Simon
*OK, they made the UK bodies larger to fit the continental mechanisms. It would have been easy - but not as cheap and therefore not as profitable - to have made smaller mechanisms to suit the British loading gauge. The decline in UK manufacturing, and the short term thinking that leads to a lack of investment in our own long-term economic needs, is not a new thing. It goes back at least 100 years.
Thinking a bit more on this theme, Cynric and anyone else who is thinking about bigger stuff...28ten said:Actually ?550 8) I still think they represent fair value for what they are.
I am itching to get my hands on one
If you are used to 4mm with the large range of RTR, bits and kits, or 7mm with the growing range of RTR, and lots of kits and bits, then you might find Gauge 1 a bit of a shock. It might be a pleasant shock in some respects.
Firstly, a lot of British outline stuff is to the "Greenly" scale of 10mm to the foot, rather than 3/8" to the foot which is so close to being the correct scale for the track gauge one wonders why anyone changed it (I am aware of the supposed reasons, but I think it was down to lazy profiteering not anything else*). This is changing, but new entrants to the marketplace have been caught out by talking to diehards in the G1 world, and have regretted going for 10mm scale and tooling up for it. Worldwide, 1:32 rules and since Aster only produce to 1:32 scale nowadays, then the UK is falling back into step. Gradually!
Secondly, some of the manufacturers have been a bit skimpy in their research. As an example, the Gauge 1 Model Co. 16T mineral wagons are 4" short, as the 16'6" over the headstocks has been applied over the bodywork - including the 4" strengthening piece on the end door. In itself, this can be disguised a bit, but the wheelbase is centred on the over-body dimension, so is off centre. Not by a lot, and many do not notice, but once you have noticed, you cannot but fail to notice it forever more.
Thirdly, there is quite a lot of stuff (compared to S scale!) but a lot less than in 7mm scale. Also, you will find W-irons in whitemetal when brass or nickel silver are much more sensible options.
Fourthly, if you want to produce finescale 2-rail models, a lot of people will tell you that they won't/can't run outdoors. Since N gauge works outdoors, with smaller flanges and much, much lighter stock, this is nonsense. You will need to spring or compensate everything, though. In this scale, springing is quite easy.
However, there are more and more kits of high quality coming onto the market, and the scale is of a sufficient size that injection-moulded resin is strong enough for wagon and loco bodies, and the economies of scale suit the likely demand, too. Etchings can be of scale thickness and still be structurally strong. Some of the components (e.g. Ken Martin's screw couplings) are simply sublime.
If you need to have things made for you, this is probably the wrong scale, but if you are interested then the best thing to do is to visit the G1MRA AGM in Woking (you will need a member to sign you in, but the entrance fee is very small) at the end of November, and to have a look around at the trade, and take a view on whether or not you think there is sufficient available to suit your needs.
If you want to make things for yourself, then it is a great scale to work in, something which you can only get a feel for by giving it a go.
You don't actually need many parts to build a model railway: wheels, axleguards (w-irons), axle box and spring castings, buffers, couplings and brakes are about it, and they are all available...
Anyway, for those thinking about a dabble, whilst I welcome growth in this form of self-satisfaction (ooer missus!) I think it best to be open, honest and fair.
Simon
*OK, they made the UK bodies larger to fit the continental mechanisms. It would have been easy - but not as cheap and therefore not as profitable - to have made smaller mechanisms to suit the British loading gauge. The decline in UK manufacturing, and the short term thinking that leads to a lack of investment in our own long-term economic needs, is not a new thing. It goes back at least 100 years.
Big coaches
I agree with the comments made by Simon,but would like to add a few thoughts of mine.
If you are left handed like me the route to take is RTR,this offers approx 15 different models of motive power to choose from ( from a A3 to a Pug).
Coaching stock is getting better with a reasonable choice and a few due on the horizon,1:32 goods stock is thin on the ground, but Slaters make some great kits that even I can assemble ( yes the wheels stay in place and turn ).
If you are tempted, there are some bargains available ( Brassworks clearance offers )
John.
I agree with the comments made by Simon,but would like to add a few thoughts of mine.
If you are left handed like me the route to take is RTR,this offers approx 15 different models of motive power to choose from ( from a A3 to a Pug).
Coaching stock is getting better with a reasonable choice and a few due on the horizon,1:32 goods stock is thin on the ground, but Slaters make some great kits that even I can assemble ( yes the wheels stay in place and turn ).
If you are tempted, there are some bargains available ( Brassworks clearance offers )
John.
28ten
Guv'nor
Big coaches
Some very fair points there Simon. The diesels that tickle my fancy are already available, and in terms of steam locos im not frightened of scratchbuilding. I would certainly fancy a couple of items as showcase models, as and when this might happen is anyones guess given how easily i am distracted
Some very fair points there Simon. The diesels that tickle my fancy are already available, and in terms of steam locos im not frightened of scratchbuilding. I would certainly fancy a couple of items as showcase models, as and when this might happen is anyones guess given how easily i am distracted
Simon
Flying Squad
Thought I'd try out this new bit of Cynric's office suite, nice comfy chairs, clean paintwork, smell of new carpets, very nice. No-one around though - oh well that's 1/32 for you
Just a "heads up" to my FS32 Yahoo Group because Fred Phipps has just posted up some pictures of one of his 1/32 Mk 1 coaches which he has finished in BR maroon.
It looks really lovely
The group archive is "open" to so you should be able to see the pictures without having to join up.
http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/FS32SGrailways/interrupt?st=2&m=1&done=%2Fgroup%2FFS32SGrailways%2Fmessage%2F1782
Simon
Just a "heads up" to my FS32 Yahoo Group because Fred Phipps has just posted up some pictures of one of his 1/32 Mk 1 coaches which he has finished in BR maroon.
It looks really lovely
The group archive is "open" to so you should be able to see the pictures without having to join up.
http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/FS32SGrailways/interrupt?st=2&m=1&done=%2Fgroup%2FFS32SGrailways%2Fmessage%2F1782
Simon
28ten
Guv'nor
Yes I had seen them
Simon if you want to post the standards or any links here please feel free to do so.
Im slowly getting up to speed, I had a parcel from Cliff Barker last week and I now have 6ft of track (soon to be extended to 12ft) for my 03 to run on and I need to clear out some more bits and pieces to raise finances for further 'investment'
Simon if you want to post the standards or any links here please feel free to do so.
Im slowly getting up to speed, I had a parcel from Cliff Barker last week and I now have 6ft of track (soon to be extended to 12ft) for my 03 to run on and I need to clear out some more bits and pieces to raise finances for further 'investment'
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
He has posted some better photos now:
This and more pictures here.
The maroon end is interesting - this suggests a late painting date for maroon, does it not? I know that blue/grey stock had blue ends, and that originally stock had black ends, but that the first Mk2 firsts appeared in maroon with maroon ends, so when did this process start?
Edit: "better" is Fred's description.
This and more pictures here.
The maroon end is interesting - this suggests a late painting date for maroon, does it not? I know that blue/grey stock had blue ends, and that originally stock had black ends, but that the first Mk2 firsts appeared in maroon with maroon ends, so when did this process start?
Edit: "better" is Fred's description.
Pennine MC
Western Thunderer
Simon Dunkley said:
It does; it's one of those regular subjects on RMweb, that I can still never remember the answer to, but it would be c1963/64 (i.e. just long enough to produce a fair few examples before the widespread change to blue/grey), and IIRC it was connected with spraying techniques.
28ten
Guv'nor
I recall reading something about spraying techniques as well. Looking forward to mine arriving even though it was before my time, I do find the whole transition period fascinating, so much interest before blue overwhelmed everything. It is a sobering thought to think that it is almost 50 years since the Westerns were introduced
even though it was before my time, I do find the whole transition period fascinating, so much interest before blue overwhelmed everything. It is a sobering thought to think that it is almost 50 years since the Westerns were introduced 
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
28ten said:The postie staggered up the path today with 3 large boxes
[attachimg=1]
That's quite a size difference - are you sure that shelf's up to it?
Regards
Dan
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Bloody hell Cynric . You just dont realise the size until you compare to 7mm. Thats massive!!!!. I think i'll go now before people wonder what im talking about. 
Rob :wave:
. You just dont realise the size until you compare to 7mm. Thats massive!!!!. I think i'll go now before people wonder what im talking about. Rob :wave:
I'm not looking to build lots of stock, just bigger with more detail. I'll try and get some better shots later.
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
Yes, an increase in size from 7mm to 10mm doesn't sound like a lot - it's not even increasing size by half (as opposed to the doubling of size between HO and O), but it does make a heck of a difference in reality!lancer1027 said:Bloody hell Cynric
28ten
Guv'nor
Im sure Fred wont mind me posting this shot
[attachimg=1]
Not being used to seeing the windows without the frames I thought that the vertical lines by the windows were from the moulding, but no, if you look at prototype shots without frames it is spot on another thing I like is the slight ripple in the sides. it is very subtle but JLTRT. I cant wait to start them in a couple of weeks....
[attachimg=1]
Not being used to seeing the windows without the frames I thought that the vertical lines by the windows were from the moulding, but no, if you look at prototype shots without frames it is spot on
another thing I like is the slight ripple in the sides. it is very subtle but JLTRT. I cant wait to start them in a couple of weeks....Attachments
![fredpics%20119[1].JPG](/data/attachments/6/6522-b5b912de102ee8c016782a8963c4b883.jpg)
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
That's because the sides curve, but the glass is flat.28ten said:
Well, obviously - and next I will teach granny to suck eggs, although I am not sure why she would want to do this.