P A D
Western Thunderer
Back to the bench with another 4-4-0 in the shape of the Gladiator D11. Starting on the loco chassis, the first thing that needs to be done after decusping the frames, is to remove the appropriate section above the bogie to suit either the D10 or D11. For the D10, the section over the front wheel should be removed and for the D11, the section over the rear wheel. I made 4 cuts with the piercing saw up to the half etched line then snapped off each section by bending with a pair of pliers, before tidying up with a file.
It's then a straight forward job to errect the frames via 4 spacers. Here they are after fitting the axle bushes and wheels. For the D10, those half etch rectangles need cutting out.
The top of the second spacer was above the frames by about a mm, so it needed filing back before fitting.
The coupling rods are assembled from three laminates with additional pieces at either end for the bosses. The Slaters crankpins are just long enough to clear the bosses so don't need reducing in length.
To obviate the need for washers on the axles, I centred the wheels in the frames with some plastic card spacers and then moved the axle bushes out to the wheels before soldering.
A start was made on decorating the chassis with the addition of the support brackets between the driving wheels and the balance weights on the front drivers. The white metal spring and sandbox castings have been prepped for fitting, and the tape on the frame marks where the front edge of the sandbox will be positioned. This is a much less complex kit than the T3 so should be a quicker build.
Cheers,
Peter
It's then a straight forward job to errect the frames via 4 spacers. Here they are after fitting the axle bushes and wheels. For the D10, those half etch rectangles need cutting out.
The top of the second spacer was above the frames by about a mm, so it needed filing back before fitting.
The coupling rods are assembled from three laminates with additional pieces at either end for the bosses. The Slaters crankpins are just long enough to clear the bosses so don't need reducing in length.
To obviate the need for washers on the axles, I centred the wheels in the frames with some plastic card spacers and then moved the axle bushes out to the wheels before soldering.
A start was made on decorating the chassis with the addition of the support brackets between the driving wheels and the balance weights on the front drivers. The white metal spring and sandbox castings have been prepped for fitting, and the tape on the frame marks where the front edge of the sandbox will be positioned. This is a much less complex kit than the T3 so should be a quicker build.
Cheers,
Peter