LBSCR Early Horsebox

Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Andy
They've all arrived safely, thank you. I did send you an email about costs etc.

Now that the fittings have arrived, I need to sort out some tiny nuts to hold them all with. In a previous post, it was decided that the hinges are have a bolt fitted from the inside and then a nut fixed on the outside. The smallest nuts that I have are 16BA but these look a bit big on a strap that is a wee bit under 3mm. I've tried to get onto Scale Hardware's site but keep getting re directed and have given up trying. A 16BA nut is 1.3/4mm a/f and I'm looking for something smaller. Prime Miniatures sell a 1mm nut but I need 100 and that works out at a cost of £70 odd pounds just for nuts. Andy B supplies small nuts as etches but, they are so small, I can't handle them to fold. We have discussed this but, I still think that in the picture the fixings are coach bolts and it may be that I'll end up using rivets to hold the straps/hinges.

Any suggestions gratefully received and I've uploaded this picture to show what I mean. Someone thought that the nut heads had a build up of paint on them making them look like domed heads. I do appreciate the thought that one wouldn't have nuts on the inside as these could damage the horses feet when being loaded unloaded but, what if the nuts were recessed on the inside?

Jon
Plate 4.8 D53.1 was 2 - Horsebox 130-007.jpg
 
M

markjj

Western Thunderer
Try approaching MMP they do some lovely etched nuts in their kits DJP might be able to help as some are add on etchings to the kits.
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Mark, I don't know who those people are. I did type into Google MMP but no luck.

Thanks, Richard, I've sent an enquiry to Giles re the plastic hex nuts 08mm AF. Fingers crossed.

Jon
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Back to the horsebox.
In the above pictures of the prototype, it shows quite chunky barrels on the top door hinges. To achieve this on the hinge blanks, I stuck, on with Araldite, some pieces half round brass strip. Once the resin had gone off, I filled in the backs with Humbrol model filler. I'm hoping that when they are painted, all will blend in seamlessly.
I can never understand how I get duplicate pictures :confused:
Jon
IMG_1293.JPG IMG_1296.JPG IMG_1296.JPG
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_1417.JPG

The London and Brighton used these inverted 'T' type lamp irons on their horseboxes but vertically straight ones on a lot of their other stock. Does anyone know of a source of lamp irons of this type? I'd like to fit this type on my horsebox but it looks as if they are going to be straight ones :(.

Jon
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
IMG_1418.JPG IMG_1419.JPG

Apart from painting, here's the horsebox virtually finished. I've just popped on the wheels to get it off the ground making a better picture. I shan't paint it until the Spring when the weather is much warmer and the paint has a better chance of drying that much quicker. There aren't any transfers available for the LBSCR and I don't want to take the risk of having the lettering and number hand painted for fear of a mistake of one sort or another so, there won't be any lettering. If there were transfers, I'm not sure that I would use them either as I'm not that good at applying them and I don't like to see the border that you get with some. For the moment, there aren't any lamp irons, see the post above, and if I can't get hold of the correct type then, I shan't use any at all. I've used glass for the front windows and you can just see some reflection in the top picture, and frosted glass for the horse compartment itself, not fitted as yet. I'm pleased with how it's come out so far but, what a lot of fiddly work:rolleyes:.

Jon
 
geoff_nicholls

geoff_nicholls

Western Thunderer
it looks very good, almost a shame to paint it. I believe you should be able to find suitable letters and numbers in the dry print range (like Letraset) if you search online. You may have difficulty with the ampersand, but if you find something that is close, it can be tweeked after applying with a tiny dab of paint or white pencil to finish it off.
I prefer dry print letters, they don't have the extra clear surround, or the shinyness.
 
Mike W

Mike W

Western Thunderer
That's an idea Geoff. When we spoke Jon about transfers and the fact that Fox now list 466 sheets of transfers for Gauge 3, but nothing like those, I hadn't noticed that they also do 150 sheets of general alphabets etc a bit like Letraset used to do, although I think these Fox ones are all waterslide.

Mike
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
Geoff
Thanks for that tip, I'll have to have a search.
It's not sure if the colours are white shaded black or gold shaded black, probably makes it more difficult to find a match.

Jon
 
jamiepage

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Jon,

It does look excellent. As Geoff says, almost a shame to paint it.
But, if it is to be painted, I can't help thinking the shaded lettering would add to its overall character.

4D Modelshop did some excellent white/ shaded black dry print transfers for me a while back, and I will in time be using them again for gold/ black and yellow/ black lettering.
I really cannot remember the prices; I recall paying more because I only provided hand drawn artwork. Had I had the knowledge to do that electronically, the cost would have been appreciably less.
Once they had the basic shapes, it was easy then to provide larger/ smaller lettering as required.

Maybe worth exploring? Especially if you plan more LB&SCR NPCS? I would chip in for a sheet if it helped.

IMG_0008.JPG
 
jamiepage

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Dave,
No, it was one of those things that can be filed under 'good ideas at the time'.
Photographs showed a few wagons with a distinctive curve to the W, probably the artistic endeavours of one painter at Cirencester, so a few were put on the sheet to act as an alternative.
That, plus a couple of alternative Ms, a few extra letters to enable various permutations of MSWJR, M&SWJR, SMAR, SM&AR, plus full stops, plus underlined Y for some wagons led to the items being drawn up.
After that, it was a case of being greedy and squeezing it all in.
Jamie
 
Jon Nazareth

Jon Nazareth

Western Thunderer
I first posted this under Questions and Queries but I think that it got lost in the queue.

With this warm weather that we are experiencing, I thought it would be a good time to paint the horsebox. I've already decided that the undercoat will be red oxide but, and for those painting larger (above 7mm) stock, what equipment do you use and if spraying, what pressures at the tank and the nozzle. Also, at what ratio do you thin your paints if using enamels. I've painted lots of 7mm in the past but nothing this big with an airbrush. All of my G3 wagons were painted with a rattle can so, no problem there.
Lots of questions but I hope someone can help.
I do have Ian Rathbone's and Christopher Vine's books.

Jon
 
jamiepage

jamiepage

Western Thunderer
Jon,
Can't help directly, I'm afraid. For bigger engineering stuff I use brush applied Craftmaster paints; the largest thing I've sprayed is G3 coach and for that I used a Precision rattle can. (It was MR Lake, by the way, which I note was what you were interested in).
Jamie
 
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