2mm Let's Build a Midland 0-6-0!
- Thread starter WM183
- Start date
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
Brilliant! Well done
WM183
Western Thunderer
A video of the engine, very nearly complete. I need buffers yet, and I need to make representations of the whistles and regulator linkage, but overall, this is how it will look.
Oh, I also need to figure a way to connect the engine frames to the tender, so it picks current up on all six axles. Any ideas?
Amanda (The Thrilled!)
Oh, I also need to figure a way to connect the engine frames to the tender, so it picks current up on all six axles. Any ideas?
Amanda (The Thrilled!)
Ian Smith
Western Thunderer
Brilliant!!! Well done!
On my Dean Goods (my only tender loco so far), I connected the tender to engine main frames by soldering fine wires to each tender frame, those wires having a short peg of phosphor bronze wire soldered onto the other ends. Those pegs engage in holes in each side of my engine chassis (and obviously can be unplugged to separate engine from tender).
Hope that’s helpful.
Ian
On my Dean Goods (my only tender loco so far), I connected the tender to engine main frames by soldering fine wires to each tender frame, those wires having a short peg of phosphor bronze wire soldered onto the other ends. Those pegs engage in holes in each side of my engine chassis (and obviously can be unplugged to separate engine from tender).
Hope that’s helpful.
Ian
WM183
Western Thunderer
Hi Ian,
I wound up just soldering the wires to the frame sides on the loco, and to the center spacer on the tender. It sort of looks like water lines, and it isn't like I plan to disconnect them. Next time perhaps I will try some teeny brass tube as a socket to "plug" a phosphor bronze pin into, but for now... it picks up on all 6 axles!
Basically now I wait to get some buffers (Yet another part I forgot - no worries, I want to build a small tank engine next, so I will have to order wheels and stuff anyways) and I need to figure out how to make a teeny whistle and the sandboxes. Then, it's paint time! I shall likely carry this on in my "Let's Build a Layout" thread so we're all in one place.
My next one will be better. I see a lot of stuff I can do better next time, or that I'd do differently. I still have an engine I am quite proud of, and a 2F is at home on any midland layout ever =D
Amanda
I wound up just soldering the wires to the frame sides on the loco, and to the center spacer on the tender. It sort of looks like water lines, and it isn't like I plan to disconnect them. Next time perhaps I will try some teeny brass tube as a socket to "plug" a phosphor bronze pin into, but for now... it picks up on all 6 axles!
Basically now I wait to get some buffers (Yet another part I forgot - no worries, I want to build a small tank engine next, so I will have to order wheels and stuff anyways) and I need to figure out how to make a teeny whistle and the sandboxes. Then, it's paint time! I shall likely carry this on in my "Let's Build a Layout" thread so we're all in one place.
My next one will be better. I see a lot of stuff I can do better next time, or that I'd do differently. I still have an engine I am quite proud of, and a 2F is at home on any midland layout ever =D
Amanda
WM183
Western Thunderer
Hi Folks!
So I ordered a pair of L&Y 2-4-2s a while ago. Now, to try and modify them to look like LNWR engines for use at Buxton, or to just... add the L&Y in the mix...
Also, no idea how to pickup on anything beyond the 4 main wheels. Anyone have ideas how to pick up on the front or rear truck too??
EEE!
So I ordered a pair of L&Y 2-4-2s a while ago. Now, to try and modify them to look like LNWR engines for use at Buxton, or to just... add the L&Y in the mix...
Also, no idea how to pickup on anything beyond the 4 main wheels. Anyone have ideas how to pick up on the front or rear truck too??
EEE!
As these were radial truck tank locos I take it the pony trucks are inside frame versions? I see two options. Use the pony trucks by assembling with thin double-sided PCB so pickup could be obtained from them by splitting the copper and adding wires. (I see they are Nigel Hunt kits so using thin PCB is usually part of the basic chassis design ethos). The only side issue would be using very fine wire so as not to restrict the movement.
Or modify the chassis frames to accept fixed 2mm axle bearings as per the drivers. I've just completed a Gibson P4 GER F5 with a 'simple' chassis like this and with sufficient sideplay it will get around quite tight radius - A5 pointwork - so getting around normal 2mm/2FS curves shouldn't be a problem.
Bob
Or modify the chassis frames to accept fixed 2mm axle bearings as per the drivers. I've just completed a Gibson P4 GER F5 with a 'simple' chassis like this and with sufficient sideplay it will get around quite tight radius - A5 pointwork - so getting around normal 2mm/2FS curves shouldn't be a problem.
Bob
WM183
Western Thunderer
Hi Bob,
I expect that would work just fine. I wouldn't mind having the wheels pivot, but in 2mm scale, I guess we have to dance with who brung us. I definitely need this to pick up on all 8 wheels; 4 wheels only just won't cut it.
I will have a go at that. Thank you!
Amanda
I expect that would work just fine. I wouldn't mind having the wheels pivot, but in 2mm scale, I guess we have to dance with who brung us. I definitely need this to pick up on all 8 wheels; 4 wheels only just won't cut it.
I will have a go at that. Thank you!
Amanda
On DCC with a stay-alive it might be enough if my experience is anything to go but on DC it would I think be very iffy. Split-axle current collection isn't in itself as reliable and foolproof as some think and getting enough weight to ensure the tyre/rail contact is also not the issue can be a real challenge in 2mm so the more wheels the better.
Good luck
Bob
2mm Andy
Active Member
Amanda, have you got a set of the extensive (37 pages!) instructions that Nick Mitchell wrote for these etches? These cover possible means of arranging electrical pick-up from the radial truck wheels (the two sides of the radial trucks are isolated from each other by the use of thin pcb during construction).
Andy
Andy
WM183
Western Thunderer