Mr Grumpy

[Mr Grumpy]

You need to change your name - you should be very happy with the results of your Thumper build.

One of these (in the same livery), is on my hit list too. Well done and thanks for the pictures.


Regards

Dan

Thanks Dan.
I was lucky as this unit is up the road at the Mid Hants Railway. The people there are very accommodating and allowed me to wander round (under supervision) for as long as I wanted. Also, the unit runs fairly frequently so you can ask for access to the cab, guards compartment and engine room. I took well over a hundred pics, but still made a couple of school boy errors due to changes made in later life and possibly preservation.
The kit itself was fine, the etches are very good, but you are virtually alone regards instructions, hence the need for lots of pics! The whitemetal castings are on the large side, but may look ok on a gauge 1 loco The engine casting is not worth anything like the £27.50, and really needs binning and a fresh one cast.


On balance, it's a nice kit and although I didn't bother much when they were in service, ( Too busy chasing 33/1s) I really have a soft spot for them now...the engine sat on display and the decent sound it produces must have a lot to do with it!
Hope you enjoy your build as much as I have!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

....sorry, forgot to add, the bogies for the DTCOL are by Michael Hughes and are reasonably accurate. ( No brake shoes though) The bogies supplied are not.
The shell vents are from Westdale.

Edited for iPhone auto spell :-(

 

[J. Edgar]

My thanks to Steph and Adrian. Your website is very interesting, Steph.

 

[Dan Randall]

....sorry, forgot to add, the bogies for the DTCOL are by Michael Hughes and are reasonably accurate. ( No brake shoes though) The bogies supplied are not.
The shell vents are from Westdale.

I can't see two massive screw heads poking out the front of the bogie, so that's a vast improvement over the Peter Clark ones, but who is Michael Hughes please?


Regards

Dan

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Dan,
The bogies on the DMBS are built as supplied. The cheese head screws are there but don't notice too much once weathered and with the buck eye coupler hanging down. You could possibly countersink the frame and use countersunk screws .
Brian Daniels gave me Michaels info, but I don't think he has a web site . He does a lot of useful stuff. You can contact him here:
mikehughes74@hotmail.co.uk

I have attached a photo of one of the bogies. I used Peter Clarks suspension struts and cut down the central bogie suspension. The bogies are white metal, nice and heavy and run very smoothly. There is no inner brake detail, and the outer shoes are a tad too far from the wheels. At least they won't short out!
Michael was also producing a thumper kit, when I ordeeed the wheels. He also does a 4TC set to go with my 33/1!!!

 

[Dan Randall]

Thanks for the additional information - I hope you manage to get it finished soon.


Regards

Dan

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks for the additional information - I hope you manage to get it finished soon.


Regards

Dan

The trouble is, once I have a nice new kit on the bench, I find it hard to go back to the one I was building. I promised myself I would finish the thumper before starting my 47. I MUST complete my 47 before I get my hands on the 9f!!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Steph kindly sent my 47s blackened buffers back today.
Couldn't resist having s quick look with them temporarily fitted. I'm very pleased with the finish
Also fitted the lights in to the head code boxes. I will try to get the glazing and cab interiors fitted tomorrow.

 

[J. Edgar]

Steel buffer heads, or brass?

 

[Steph Dale]

Steel buffer heads, or brass?

Nickel-silver and of good quality metal. To get a nice even coat of blackening they went through the process twice, with a polish at each stage.

Steph

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Nickel-silver and of good quality metal. To get a nice even coat of blackening they went through the process twice, with a polish at each stage.

Steph

......and the finish is perfect!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I just had to put in the orange conduits ! They are soldered to a very thin frame and the window flush glazed. The conduits are then a friction fit in to the window opening, almost touching the glass so as to remove the thickness of the opening.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

She's really looking like a 47 now!
I made up the panels using Heljan headcodes stuck to the glazing with double sided tape. The background came up a little grey, so I messed about with them on the computer and printed them slightly larger and a lot darker. There are three 12v bulbs behind each headcode.
I have taken a (not so good) close up of the notice boards I made and fitted above the handbrake wheel in each cab, copied word for word from the real thing!
Unfortunately , I misplaced the transfers @Pugsley sent me, so will have to do without for now.
I can now get on and fit out the cab and secure the buffer beam and CPL couplings.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I need a quick rant!!!
I can only describe today's progress as slower than walking through chest height mud!!
I made an early start hoping to glaze the cabs and fit them out. Progress has stumbled to a close as the glazing is doing my head in!!

I had made the decision early on in the build to do away with the DJH glazing and cut and shape my own. We all know how tedious this process is so I reverted back to the DJH offering.
@richard carr warned me the glazing creases easily. He was 100% correct! It does and it did, so as there are no spare units supplied, a£16.00 cheque was reluctantly sent to DJH for a replacement set.
As you can imagine, I'm treating this stuff like an Egyptian artefact and probably getting a tad paranoid about creasing the replacement set.
What is so frustrating is I'm sure the units fitted before painting, they mostly don't now! On reflection I should have filed a smidgen more from the apertures. Live and learn!!
So, I will take a fresh look tomorrow and decide weather to persevere or go back to plan A and cut glazing material.

Normal service now resumed

 

[richard carr]

Richard

Sadly the fact you have painted the model is the problem. I fear that fitting a replacement set won't be any better without enlarging the window apertures and that's probably going to ruin your paint work.
At this stage I think I would be tempted to make your own, I know its tedious but its not too bad using some good quality clear plastic. Real glass is too much like hard work but it would look good.

Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Hi Richard,
I think if I'm honest, I had probably decided that's the way to go.
@adrian kindly sent me some top quality glazing material. I have used it for the head codes and it shapes quite nicely. Also it seems to be just the right thickness.

So all is not lost

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Following some careful filing and a paint touch up of the inner frames, I managed to get, for now, the original windscreen glazing installed just to test for fit.
The cab side windows are proving a tad more uncooperative and may require glazing material to be cut.

 

[Dikitriki]

I'm afraid I think the original glazing lets your good work down. I'd use the original as templates to then cut from Adrian's 'glass'.

Richard

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I'm afraid I think the original glazing lets your good work down. I'd use the original as templates to then cut from Adrian's 'glass'.

Richard

Thanks for your feed back. I think you are right.
I wasn't happy with the quality of the DJH glazing originally.
I will crack on with Adrian's glazing material and hopefully end up with a high quality finish. ......Could be a while.....

 

[mickoo]

I'm afraid I think the original glazing lets your good work down. I'd use the original as templates to then cut from Adrian's 'glass'.

Richard

+1

Bubble pack plastic is best used for transporting bacon and mince beef, not for model railway glazing

Even the worst efforts with Adrians material will surpass those bacon pack windows with ease, take all the time you need and you will be rewarded