Mr Grumpy

T

Temeraire

Western Thunderer
Mr Grumpy said:
I received great news from @Steph Dale today...
he has completed work on my 47s bogies!
They look superb and I hope my modelling skills have done them justice!
Fitting the brake gear will be a nice distraction from filing panels of glazing.
I'm now probably qualified to open a nail bar :)

Here they are...
View attachment 50253
Click to expand...

I like the idea of the small tabs on the side of the bogies to (I assume) attached the side frames with.

I have a pair of ABC bogies to go under a JLTRT class 50 which could do with the same sort of thing. I was thinking of using some brass angle tapped to take a bolt unless anyone has any other ideas.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Seems like a very simple but effective way to hang the frames to the chassis, also great for easy maintenance :thumbs:
I was a tad worried that the pewter frames may not be very strong at their corner joints, but a couple of drops to the workshop floor soon dispelled that theory :)
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Temeraire said:
I like the idea of the small tabs on the side of the bogies to (I assume) attached the side frames with.

I have a pair of ABC bogies to go under a JLTRT class 50 which could do with the same sort of thing. I was thinking of using some brass angle tapped to take a bolt unless anyone has any other ideas.
Click to expand...

Photos of an ABC motor bogie fitted into a JLTRT Cl.37, the resin bogie frames are fitted to brass angles... the angles are soldered to the side plates of the ABC bogie. There are screws through the resin bogie frames into threaded holes in the angles.
 
Last edited:
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Temeraire said:
Looks like I need to find myself some suitable brass angle, taps, etc
Click to expand...

We used 10BA CSK bolts from underneath the lugs on the resin bogie sideframes. The "angle" was something like 8mm x 8mm U-section with a wall of circa 1mm (that is the crucial part of what we did, need the thickness to give sufficient "threads"). I recollect that the section came from Metalsmiths (before the split / sale of the company). Peter cut one side of the "U" off to give the required angle.

You ought to be able to get what you need from traders at the Reading Trade Show on this coming Saturday.

If you intend to do something like our approach then please check before you start:-

1/ all of our resin sideframes needed to be "straightened" along the frame, both in/out and up/down directions.

2/ the contact face between the angle and the resin bogie sideframe is the top of the lug of the resin sideframe... that surface needs to be at right angles to the rest of the moulding otherwise the bogie sideframe can be tilted with respect to the ABC bogie.

3/ the resin sideframes, when fitted to the brass bogie frame using the pegs on the lugs, were not centred correctly... Peter removed the pegs, aligned the sideframes relative to wheel centres, and then spotted through the resin lug into the brass angles (which had been soldered to the ABC bogie).

Yes, there is a fair bit of Mk1 eyeball engineering here, just take one step at a time and think through how to get from A-2-Z in 3D space. What may help you is to build up a JLTRT resin inner / outer frame with wheels in the outer locations... put the bogie on a flat surface.... and then measure from the surface to the top of the resin sideframe. You now have a reference dimension for adjusting the location of the brass angles / remedial work on the resin lugs (and mark the reference point on the top of the resin sideframe so that you get make your measurements in the same place each time).

regards, Graham
 
Last edited:
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
image.jpeg In readiness for my bogies, I have fitted the cab interior and buffer beam/balance.
The fixing hole under the beam had to be re drilled as it was a couple of mm too forward.
I have, for now, a mix of DJH glazing and glazing shaped by my fair hand.
I have taken a good look at the cabs and I'm not happy with the paint finish.
I therefore took the executive decision to get the bogies installed, hopefully have some fun then strip, respray and glaze in the Spring, when the weather permits me to spray outside.
Couplings are by CPL and are superb :thumbs:


image.jpeg
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
I have had a look at the couplings fitted to the Warships, unfortunately most pics I have are a tad dark around the coupling area.
I 'think' the Tommy bar (probably incorrect terminology) on the Warships is fixed at a right angle, whereas the later diesels was hinged and could lie vertically and was shaped more like a long handle.
For my MMP tankers, I used the diesel shackles and a coach Tommy bar. These couplings look the same as on the Warship to me. Doing it this way works out a little expensive though but looked correct.
 
T

Temeraire

Western Thunderer
Apologies in the delay in replying but a big thanks to Graham (Dog Star) for the description above (I won't quote the whole thing) of how you made up the side frame brackets.

Sadly I couldn't get to Reading at the weekend and the Metalsmiths website seems to be a bit sparse at the moment but I'll keep hunting for some brass angle of the right thickness. All I can find locally is square section tube but it's not thick enough to tap a thread into.
 
T

Temeraire

Western Thunderer
As an edit to my post above I have just managed to get into the right section of the Metalsmith website but they have, quite understandably, a minimum mail order amount of £15.00. I'll have a quick review of wants/needs at home before placing an order.

Mr Grumpy - That could be a possible, will need to check the nut or head of the bolt (depending which way round) would be visible. Thanks for the idea :)
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Temeraire said:
... I'll keep hunting for some brass angle of the right thickness...
Click to expand...
I shall ask Peter if we have some to spare.

Mr Grumpy said:
How about a nut and bolt?
Click to expand...
Might be possible... however, there is not a lot of vertical "thickness" behind which to hide the bracket and a nut given that the idea is to bolt the resin lug to the brass bracket - that comment is based upon our experience of doing what Temeraire is considering. I think that the top surface of the brass angle is pretty well flush with the top of the resin bogie sideframe.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Thank goodness for Downton Abbey!!
Despite my right thumb refusing to work correctly, I managed to stealthily slip away for a couple of hours and make a start on painting the wheels and adding brake rigging.
The centre wheels have a LOT of sideways play, presumably to get the loco round 'corners' so I couldn't fit the brake shoes as close to the wheels as I would like. With the bogie frames dropped on, they will hardly notice.
 
Mr Grumpy

Mr Grumpy

Western Thunderer
Progress is slower than I would like, mainly due to my thumb refusing to cooperate, and external influences sending in more and more time bandits!
Still, I completed one side of one bogie earlier (now finished one complete bogie since taking the pics).
I have checked the bogies for any shorting on the brake shoes (all ok) and hopefully will send them up and down the layout and through all the pointwork before installing them in to the loco. The pics really don't do them justice, but that's iPhones for you!
image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top