Mr Grumpy

[Healey Mills]

Bloomin eck!!! Same window that fell off my 40 yesterday

I'm starting to wonder whether the Glue n glaze stuff is better... although it takes an age to dry and fix the glazing.

At least you've sorted things though and that's a great gizmo for holding the glazing too

Cheers
Lee

 

[Yorkshire Dave]

The glazing is glued from inside the cab, so I used a contact lens sucker to pull the glazing in to the frame after carefully applying glue found the edge of the glazing

A nice and simple solution.

The Hymek is really starting to look the part . It's amazing what a coat of paint can do.

after the crushing realisation that the bottom stripe is incorrect (soon to be sorted)

I think the bottom stripe looks okay, especially if it was lightly weathered with what the Americans call 'road dirt' or dust. If the bottom stripe does start to become irksome then I would just leave the paint finish to harden, mask and respray the stripe.

 

[oldravendale]

In my ignorance I had no knowledge of the existence of this tool! I assume available from Boots or similar?

B

 

[Mr Grumpy]

In my ignorance I had no knowledge of the existence of this tool! I assume available from Boots or similar?

B

Many years ago I wore a contact lens, and the only way I could remove it was with one of these suckers.
I tried Boots and other chemists, also a couple of 'specsaver' type places without any luck, so I bought it on Amazon for about £5.00 a few weeks ago, just in case any thing like this occurred with the glazing. The trouble is, the cab is a sealed unit and it's impossible to get back inside once glued in position
Also I found it fiddly getting the glazing in to my MOK 1400, so having a 7400 to build, thought this would be a useful item in the armoury

 

[oldravendale]

Thanks for the advice. Found on Amazon! Same colour too.

Brian

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Thanks for the advice. Found on Amazon! Same colour too.

Brian

.....I'm on commission !!

 

[Pugsley]

thought this would be a useful item in the armoury

Yep - that's one of the most useful tools I've seen for a long time! Mental note made

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I had to concede to the colour issue with the stripe I phoned Spraywell in Dudley for an aerosol, but by the time the courier delivery was added on it came to £25.00, so I nipped out to the model shop and got this for under £3.00


I then whiled away several hours making up my CPL couplings
(Excuse the paint....it's coming off!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Railmatch yellow/green applied.
Glad I changed it

 

[Jordan or Plymouth Mad]

Re the contact lens sucker - OMG!!! I can't imagine putting that thing anywhere near my eyes!!!

Good modelling use for it, though!!

 

[Mr Grumpy]

Re the contact lens sucker - OMG!!! I can't imagine putting that thing anywhere near my eyes!!!

Good modelling use for it, though!!

You can remove contact lenses by gently pulling the outer corner of your eye. It gets a tad expensive though when the lens launches across the room.... Somehow the sucker always appealed after a few new lenses

 

[The Penguin Of Doom]

That looks much better (The Hymek, not the principal of contact lens removal.....)

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I'm getting closer to the stage where I have to apply the nickle silver loco numbers
I'm a tad anxious as I don't want to damage the paintwork with glue, but want a nice level line, with the didgets evenly spaced.
Anyone performed this task on a Hymek, and got any tips please?

 

[Mr Grumpy]

While I ponder the fixing of the numbers, I have completed one buffer beam. It's such a tedious task, filing all the cocks and glad hands so the tubing will fit. Still, the effort was worth while and it looks nice and cluttered

 

[The Penguin Of Doom]

I would suggest using the old masking tape trick to make sure they are all at the same level and use some brush on varnish as a glue - the same as the rest of the body (Matt/Satin/Gloss etc), so any seepage should merge into the original finish.

Cheers.

Sean.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I would suggest using the old masking tape trick to make sure they are all at the same level and use some brush on varnish as a glue - the same as the rest of the body (Matt/Satin/Gloss etc), so any seepage should merge into the original finish.

Cheers.

Sean.

Thanks Sean,
I hadn't given varnish a thought, so that could be the way forward.
Thanks!

 

[AJC]

Thanks Sean,
I hadn't given varnish a thought, so that could be the way forward.
Thanks!

That's what I did on my 4mm version - when I last looked they were all well stuck on about 10 years later. Your model is looking very good indeed (especially sans yellow panel).

Adam

 

[Healey Mills]

Hi Grumps,

The Hymek is looking superb and the hard work with the repaint has certainly paid dividends. The buffer beam does look really cluttered but I guess that's due to the angle that you took the photo

Keep going, it'll be finished in no time!!

Cheers
Lee

 

[Jordan or Plymouth Mad]

I would suggest using the old masking tape trick to make sure they are all at the same level and use some brush on varnish as a glue - the same as the rest of the body (Matt/Satin/Gloss etc), so any seepage should merge into the original finish.

Cheers.

Sean.

Sean's beaten me to it, although I have to add that in my experience gloss enamel varnish worked better than acrylic matt, albeit the seepage shows & I can't be @rsed at present to strip the loco down again for a spray of Dullcote.

 

[Mr Grumpy]

I thought I had completed one end, apart from cleaning the windscreens and a tiny bit of touching in on the wipers and lamps. Then I noticed an area of paint had come away from the 2nd man's seat. (See bottom photo) I'm going to have to remove a window to repaint it :-( However, every cloud has a silver lining, it will probably push out fairly easily because of the Rocket odourless glue I used. It just doesn't seem to have the same strength as the 'Glue n Glaze'

Thanks Craig for your help with the headcodes!