Painting and lining


Western Thunderer
Just came across this thread. Read it from start to finish. You can overdose on this stuff ! Remarkable work Warren. Learned a lot too. Which is timely, as I'm about to have a go at painting my first 7mm loco soon. Thanks.

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Just came across this thread. Read it from start to finish. You can overdose on this stuff ! Remarkable work Warren. Learned a lot too. Which is timely, as I'm about to have a go at painting my first 7mm loco soon. Thanks.

Thanks Ian
Any questions don’t hesitate to give me a shout

A couple more jobs this week

Mickoo s H38 build now has a coat of paint and a Gladiator PomPom which I built and painted

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Western Thunderer
Nice work. When you sprayed the factory sprayed loco how did you know that the paint would not react with the cellulose paint? Where do you go for reference when it comes to the positioning of the lining, for example on the cab side of this loco, do you go by where the lines are on the real loco in comparison to the rivet detail. Do you use acetone to clean the locos or a pre-paint degreaser?

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
These locos were factory sprayed in baked on enamel. I started doing them about 20 years ago so can’t really remember how I found out but would have probably test sprayed under the boiler. I remember we had to strip the paint off a factory painted 80000 tank and after about 4 months in a tank of celly thinners plus other strippers we gave up on it.

Regarding lining position it’s basically scaled from a decent photo. The problem with these models was that the rivet detail was a bit on the heavy side so it was best to position the lining to miss them. I do try to be as accurate as possible and usually this is when you find errors in kits with missing, extra or wrongly placed rivets!

Before painting models are cleaned with viakal and primered as soon as they are dry. I don’t worry about degreasing them as cellulose thinners dissolves it any way so if I have a particularly greasy model it is dunked in clean neat thinners.
Decent etch primer isn’t usually affected by finger grease so I don’t worry about it.

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Just finished this pair of B12’s, well I have once I get the last couple of bits on and give them a dose of weathering.
I built both of them from the connoisseur kit, a few minor niggles mostly with the amount of extra bits to replace, white metal castings and split pin handrail knobs.
Well recommended kit especially if you go for 5he extra bits.
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Western Thunderer
Rather nice locos there Warren. Wheels are of particular importance on the B12's and while the driving wheels go some way to capturing the GER look, the bogie wheels need replacing with wheels with a large protruding boss and spokes that taper away from it.

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Hi Larry
Possibly the face on camera angle, they do sort of flair out, but I suppose we are limited to what Slaters produce.
Ps been drooling over your 80’s diesel photos, really takes me back to my youth:thumbs:


Western Thunderer
Started a few paint jobs today, a couple of which are from Sancheng. One is a Jubilee in Factory finished green and the other a brass Crab.
I will try to show and explain how i go about finishing these locos. First job on the painted loco is to improve the factory finish which is poor. The colours are all wrong (the blacks ok:)) and are also far too flat and have a gritty texture.

View attachment 17125

The first job is to dismantle the model into its basic sub assemblies then mask off the cab roof and smokebox. Then I give it a coat of cellulose red oxide as a base coat. This is celly paint not primer. Only cellulose paint works, experience has taught me that it is the only type of paint which will bond to the factory paint work.

Now a coat of cellulose deep bronze green can be applied, this gives a lovely smooth gloss finish.

View attachment 17126

When compared to the original factory finish its easy to see the improvement. This procedure takes only half an hour from start to finish and is well worth the effort. The loco is now left for a couple of hours for the cellulose to fully harden.

View attachment 17128

View attachment 17127

The above picture shows repainted finish on left and factory finish on right. Although the colours look similar , they are quite different, just my average photography skills.
The Crab has been scrubbed with viakal and will be left to dry off overnight before a coat of etching primer is applied.
Start the lining tomorrow.....


Hi Warren

Silly question as i think the answer is in the sequence of photos, but I assume it's green first, then black??

Also the detail of the 'correct' lining makes it very clear. I tend to use a cocktail stick dipped in thinners to manicure the curves rather than a fine brush, but you're the professional and i'm sure you've tried all methods in your career?!

Regards, Rob

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Things evolve over time, and as this is for a living and I’m doing something in the region of 20 locos a month, I do whichever way seams easiest. I look at a model and the first thing I think is which is the easiest way to mask up.
For every job I use black primer, green covers it fine, maroons and crimsons need a reddish brown base coat to cover without being to dark.
For something like a LMS Duchess I would probably go with the following sequence although for a green loco you would omit the brown coats.
1, mask any part not to require paint or if it’s possible to scrape at the end I would leave it.
2, all over black primer.
3, cream cab interior and buffer beams, give the cream an hour to harden then overspray the bufferbeams red.
4, mask buffer beams and cab interior parts to remain cream.
5, paint cab roof black and then mask off ( it’s easier to mask the roof than around the cab and over the firebox)
6, spray the lo5 reddish brown, rub down and repeat until happy with the finish (I treat this as if it were the top coats)
7, spray over the brown with crimson lake, one or two thin coats are enough.
8, mask the red and spray the black. (I sometimes use different blacks for smokebox or cab roof.)
9, remove all masking, check for blemishes but hopefully there won’t be any or very minor. Rub them lightly with 2000 grit wet and dry.
10, Give the model a good wet coat with neat thinners (not possible with enamels). It’s amazing how scratches and scuffs caused by the masking just vanish.
11, remove any paint from areas to be polished metal. I have various bits of sharpened brass for this.
12, now you can get the lining pens out and have some fun.

As I use cellulose exclusively, I can probably do this in 3 consecutive days.
It would probably take over a week with enamels and in my opinion, although a fantastic finish can be achieved, it will never be as smooth as cellulose.
Hope that’s of help, it’s just a general guide and the way I like to do things, there is no right or wrong way


Western Thunderer
Many thanks for a very comprehensive reply; I wasn't expecting that, but so informative. Thank you!
I'm sure there are many 'viewers' who will appreciate the information you have given.
Keep posting the pics of your splendid work, always a pleasure to admire such talent.

Kind regards, Rob.


Been through this whole thread. Took a few days. Amazing work Warren! Truly inspirational.

Can I ask what colour you use for the early GWR coach cream? I have a suspicion it is Ivory.