David Mylchreest
Western Thunderer
I have one of these in my stash which I acquired during a brief period of interest in NG . It has never occurred to me to do it in SG! I'm not sure it would be possible to compensate it though.
Standard Gauge Baldwin Gas Mechanical
- Thread starter spikey faz
- Start date
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hopefully my attempt at converting the kit to standard gauge won't put you off from doing the same.
I'm still debating compensation or springs for the suspension. A rigid chassis is out of the question due to the aforementioned dodgy track laying
I'd love to see another standard gauge version of this kit take shape, so maybe give it a go David.
Mike
David Mylchreest
Western Thunderer
Don't think you're going to put me off at all! I'm most impressed by the tidy soldering, would that I could do as well.Hopefully my attempt at converting the kit to standard gauge won't put you off from doing the same.
I'm still debating compensation or springs for the suspension. A rigid chassis is out of the question due to the aforementioned dodgy track laying
I'd love to see another standard gauge version of this kit take shape, so maybe give it a go David.
Mike
Have you chosen a gearbox yet? Must be coming up to that time and the model is so small.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
One thing I've come to realise over the years is that when it comes to soldering you can never have enough heat! I've got a cheapo 80w soldering station which does most of what I need. Only occasionally do I get the old bruiser soldering iron out. Usually followed by lots of cleaning up of excess solder.
There is a foldup gearbox supplied with the kit, but I'll need to source a motor. I have no idea what the gear ratio is, so I may look at a Highlevel gearbox to get the low gearing I think I'll need.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Today I've been working on the cab. The cab controls were a bit fiddly to put together, but I'm getting there!
I've boxed in the cutaway wheel arches by using the sandbox etchings albeit severely cut down.
The r/h side of the cab has had its window opening filled in and I'll need to make a new rear cab sheet as well to replicate the prototype.
Mike
I've boxed in the cutaway wheel arches by using the sandbox etchings albeit severely cut down.
The r/h side of the cab has had its window opening filled in and I'll need to make a new rear cab sheet as well to replicate the prototype.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Replacement rear cabsheet has been made, complete with rear window/peephole and some embossed rivets.
I've obtained some High Level 2mm hornblocks. I think these will end up being sprung, but as usual I'm improvising as I go along.
Now, I'm seeking some help here. I need to align the hornblocks with the coupling rods and I'm struggling to find a way of doing this accurately. Normally I'd use my tapered hornblock alignment axles, but I don't have any in 2mm diameter. I have got a 2mm tapered axle off a OO wagon, but the tapered angle is a bit sharp and the axle is also a bit too short. So, any suggestions (not rude
) as to how to proceed will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
I've obtained some High Level 2mm hornblocks. I think these will end up being sprung, but as usual I'm improvising as I go along.
Now, I'm seeking some help here. I need to align the hornblocks with the coupling rods and I'm struggling to find a way of doing this accurately. Normally I'd use my tapered hornblock alignment axles, but I don't have any in 2mm diameter. I have got a 2mm tapered axle off a OO wagon, but the tapered angle is a bit sharp and the axle is also a bit too short. So, any suggestions (not rude
) as to how to proceed will be greatly appreciated.Thanks
Mike
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I bought some 2mm silver steel rod a while back via eBay. Being only 2mm, it was quite cheap.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob.
Yes, I've no problem with obtaining the 2mm rod. It's getting the ends turned to a longish tapered point that's the issue. I should have bought a lathe years ago!
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
simond
Western Thunderer
Mike,
what size are the holes in the coupling rods? Could you get some silver steel (or piano wire) of that diameter, and sleeve it with brass tube to get your 2mm? I guess it depends on whether a brass tube of the right ID and OD is easily available, but that way you don’t need the taper.
hth
Simon
what size are the holes in the coupling rods? Could you get some silver steel (or piano wire) of that diameter, and sleeve it with brass tube to get your 2mm? I guess it depends on whether a brass tube of the right ID and OD is easily available, but that way you don’t need the taper.
hth
Simon
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Mancunian
Active Member
I'm wondering if the outside cranks need to be soldered onto the axles. I get anxious about soldering steel because of the huge amount of energy needed to do it. It might cause distortion and other details to fall off.
My experience is that extruded brass tube is as dimensionally accurate as silver steel and a lot easier to solder. The hole is easily filled with a bit of wire.
Sorry for the late and perhaps eccentric contribution .
Regards
My experience is that extruded brass tube is as dimensionally accurate as silver steel and a lot easier to solder. The hole is easily filled with a bit of wire.
Sorry for the late and perhaps eccentric contribution .
Regards
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
The outside cranks are made of some sort of plastic, so soldering not really an option. But, I'm reasonably confident that they'll stay put on the axles. They'll be butting up to the wheel faces, so the addition of some glue should hopefully suffice.
But thank you for your suggestions, as I often do tend to overlook the obvious!
Mike
simond
Western Thunderer
I’m not sure why you’re suggesting steel is harder to solder than brass.
Brass has a much higher thermal conductivity, more than twice that of steel, and is a few percent denser, so the same part will weigh a little more in brass than in steel.
Both factors conspire to make brass more demanding of heat to solder.
of course, both are a challenge to solder to plastic…
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
A half hours work resulted in a couple of axle alignment jigs. This meant I could fit the High Level hornguides.
Next up will be the gearbox, but in the meantime here's a couple of pictures to give an idea of how this little Baldwin will look.
Mike
Next up will be the gearbox, but in the meantime here's a couple of pictures to give an idea of how this little Baldwin will look.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Although a gearbox is supplied in the kit, the gear ratio is not stated. I also needed to source a motor. The recommended motor is a Mashima 1220, which of course is out of production. I've no doubt I could have sourced one eventually, but I'd like to think motor technology has moved on a tad, so I went with a coreless one from High Level. I also ordered one of their Loadhauler gearboxes with 120:1 gears.
Time will tell if it is the right combination, but at the moment I'm quietly confident.
Mike
Time will tell if it is the right combination, but at the moment I'm quietly confident.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
simond
Western Thunderer
Mike,
the mesh in your top photo, between worm and the first gear, is far too slack.
The worm teeth (tooth, there’s only one!) should be close to the bottom of the wheel “valleys”.
Not right down, but to me the pitch line is completely incorrect.
It’ll run, and maybe quietly, but the gear will wear out very quickly.
best
Simon
the mesh in your top photo, between worm and the first gear, is far too slack.
The worm teeth (tooth, there’s only one!) should be close to the bottom of the wheel “valleys”.
Not right down, but to me the pitch line is completely incorrect.
It’ll run, and maybe quietly, but the gear will wear out very quickly.
best
Simon