7mm The LNER 06 (MOK 8F) Build is No More

[Rob Pulham]

Thanks Mick,

The instructions are a bit silent on that bit - it took some working out which one went to the front in the first place. To be fair it does tell you to just tack solder them, so swapping it over won't be too onerous.

Thanks again.

 

[Rob Pulham]

I managed to crack on and get a smoothly rolling inner chassis yesterday.

I bought this kit in 2010 and the instructions are dated much older than that, however the last revision of the etches is dated 2007.

This makes for an interesting time in places. - For example, on the section of the instructions dealing with the assembly of the compensation beams it mentions using alternate parts from a 15 "thou" supplementary etch which is now one of the main etches - quite easy to work out as the parts are quite distinctive and are clearly duplicated (I just ran the digital caliper over them to find out which ones were 15 "thou").

The next little bit that could trap the unwary is the next page which covers the assembly of the inner chassis is text wrapped around a drawing so it takes a bit of following but the key is that the drawing is in fact of a different bit entirely that isn't mentioned in the text and I almost moved onto the next section without assembling it. I was just double checking and ticking off what I had done when I noticed it. Hopefully this might help someone else when they come to build one.







This last photo highlights one of the rare bits where a couple of the tabs don't align. Again this is highlighted to assist future builders rather than being a criticism of the kit. As I understand it Dave Sharpe (MOK) withdrew it for a while to correct the few minor errors but there wasn't enough interest to warrant the time so he re-released it unchanged. The fact that these two tabs don't align makes no difference to the accuracy or ease of going together of this section because all the other bits that interlock with this (whose tabs do align), mean that once you snip these two off it goes together nicely.

 

[adrian]

Nice work - even if it does look a little funny with the hump.

I have an 8F on the shelf for a future project but in Scale7. Fortunately MOK have just released a set of Scale7 etches for the loco but I'll still need to update the tender. I'd be looking at springing the chassis as well so I'll be following this closely to see how it all fits together and how I could modify it. Thanks for posting the photos.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Life has got in the way of any modelling for the last couple of weeks or so but a little progress has been made on the brakes and water scoop gear.

Starting with the brakes.






I had a proper DOH! moment with these when fitting the crank I read the instructions and worked out where it all went but for some reason I didn't start on it for a couple of days and foolishly didn't re-read the instructions... As I was fitting it the crank should have fitted as it is in the red square but initially I worked on fitting the end of the shaft through the etched holes which I had enlarged before realizing (red curved line).

The next bit of the instructions says words to the effect of assemble the water scoop gear using the 1/32 brass pins provided. Which at the outset doesn't seem very helpful, however there are a couple of isometric drawings, and a couple of prototype photos in the main instructions and a supplement to the instructions which has a useful photo of a made up model and another drawing. Careful study of these allows you to work out what goes where. Thankfully I was also able to confirm my workings out were correct by asking Tony Geary who build one recently.









In the last photo once I had worked out that the two long operating rods (part 16 for anyone building one) needed to be soldered together I also decided to beef up the two end links that were half etched. I soldered them to a bit of scrap nickel fret, drilled them out and filed them to shape. The prototype photos show balance weights for parts 14 but the photo of the made up kit didn't have them. I couldn't find any castings for them so I made them up from some brass rod that I had in stock. I drilled through the middle and soldered a brass pin in to give some end definition (Tony suggested that I ask Dave Sharp for castings but by the time I saw his note I was well on with making them).

All I need to do now is put it all together.......

 

[Rob Pulham]

While I haven't progressed this in the intervening years since I last updated the thread. The plan for an LNER 06 is no more.

Chris was demoing at a Railwayana event on Saturday and I was manning her stand selling cards and prints of her paintings.

As you do I had a look around at the Railwayana on offer and ended up blowing some of my Stafford budget on a Stanier Hooter Whistle which is off an 8F no 8425. It turns out having done a bit of research since, that 8425 was one of the Swindon built examples for the war effort which was released to traffic 31-12 1943.

So now the plan is to finish the model as 8425 as it was during the war. I must confess being a born and bred Yorkshireman I never imagined that I might be building a product of Swindon for myself.

It should reappear on the workbench in between further work on the Princess once the J6 is off to it's new home in September.

 

[Eastsidepilot]

............. and ended up blowing some of my Stafford budget on a Stanier Hooter Whistle which is off an 8F no 8425.................

Now hitch it up to the air compressor and frighten the hell out of the neighbours .......nope ? don't tell me it's going to replace the front door bell

 

[Rob Pulham]

Now hitch it up to the air compressor and frighten the hell out of the neighbours .......nope ? don't tell me it's going to replace the front door bell

Funnily enough you are not the first to suggest it almost word for word....

 

[Rob Pulham]

Recent talk of printing works plates by guys on another forum got me thinking about the fact that I had managed to find an auction house image of the actual plate fitted to my loco which I downloaded. I managed to find it again today and shared it for comparison purposes only.

When scaled and enlarged the font doesn't match anything that I could find so I ended up drawing each letter/numeral individually.

The images are much enlarged with the text and rim being only 0.2mm deep

 

[John Baker]

Recent talk of printing works plates by guys on another forum

Would you mind posting a link to this? Right up my street Great work on the 3D modelling btw!

 

[Rob Pulham]

Hi John,

Here you go,

 

[John Baker]

Hi John,

Here you go,

Cheers! Just spent a very enjoyable half hour or so reading through that particular thread. That forum may well have just gained a new member

 

[Rob Pulham]

Whilst making the lamp irons for the Princess my thoughts turned to the unusual (to me at ay rate) double lamp irons that Swindon fitted to the 8F's that they built so that GWR and LMS lamps could be fitted.


View attachment 61343
For those unfamiliar with what I am talking about this is a snip from a web image to illustrate.

The MOK kit does provide etches to make up this version of the lamp irons but I am not keen on etched lamp irons. I also thought that I would like to do them from nickel as the rest of the kit is nickel but I didn't have any square nickel bar thick enough. I do have some 5mm nickel rod so my first step was to machine the end square in the mill.

Then it was a case of working out how best to mill out the bits in between the lamp irons.

I milled a groove down one corner of the square section and then rotated the part to carefully mill from the opposite corner to leave the two upright irons

The tops were then rounded with a file before cutting off the main piece. I could have transferred the work piece to the lathe and part it off but I just cut it with a piercing saw them popped it in the vice jaws and milled the bottom flat.

 

[Rob Pulham]

Today I have made the final set of lamp irons for the 8F and thought I would share the method because it occurred to me that while I have used the mill, the same result and basic method could be followed by someone with a file.

I started with some flat nickel bar



I cut off four 40mm lengths and soldered them together.



Once soldered together, I milled all the edges flat. I needn't have done the ends but with the mill it was a simple task. Here I have milled out the front of the iron.



Then, I turned the block over and milled out the rear



This is the finished job before cutting off with a piercing saw and separating them.



The finished individual lamp irons ready for final clean up with a file.

From the 40mm strips, I got eight lamp irons and I have enough material left already soldered together for a further eight which I will cut and put in the spares box.

 

[bambuko]

It's amazing how helpful few photos are...
I have read your "wordy" explanation elsewhere... and must admit - I was lost, until I got here