Track Cleaning

[paratom]

Track cleaning, its something we all have to do if we have a layout but what is the best method. I recently was having a debate with my fellow modellers on this matter and as a rule they have always used a fine track rubber and isopropanol. Despite this tried and tested method it always takes a long time to get one of our layout tracks cleaned and ready for exhibition. I mentioned the use of fine wet and dry paper and was told this was a definite no as it leaves scratches on the rail. This evening I thought I would experiment on an old piece of copper clad track that is probably about 30 years old or more using P1200 wet and dry paper to see what sort of results I would get. The dirt came off with ease which I couldn’t say with the other method. Now what begs the question; did I damage the rail and leave scratches on it. Looking at the result I couldn’t see any visible scratches but then I didn’t have a microscope to examine the rail with. I’m sure that I would see some scratches under a microscope but would these be too small to have a detrimental effect on the rail. The 1200 paper is so smooth to touch I was surprised it took any dirt off at all. Your thoughts on this and what methods other modellers use to clean their tracks please.

 

[simond]

Peco track rubber, and, having cleaned my track, I oil it. Wahl clipper oil.

I clean wheels with a cotton bud and IPA, and oil loco wheels too.

I have heard of people using hardboard, pan scourers, & foam abrasive blocks (we used them on JM’s outdoor layout, it was necessary)

atb
Simon

 

[Greengiant]

Initially clean with a OO Gauge Association track rubber, then wipe railheads with a 2B graphite stick. Normally fine for a two day exhibition unless in a very dusty venue.
Martin

 

[SimonT]

Don't clean, use RailZip. I took Aberbeeg (16m x 7m of S7) to the filthy hall that was Warley. RailZip had been run over all the track. No problems, no stalls and no stay alives in the locos. A couple of years later Love Lane was at Warley. They never stopped cleaning all weekend. Go figure as they say on the other side of the pond.
You cannot beat the chemistry of metal and oxygen.

 

[Jordan or Plymouth Mad]

Another user of the Peco track rubber here - apparently a treasonous act of appalling heresy according to many. I would like to get hold of the DOGA rubber to try as I hear it's not as gritty as the Peco one.
I also use a 2B graphite stick at times - again a cause of apoplectic gnashing of teeth amongst the Naysayers of Doom, who propose all sorts of theoretical notions as why it shouldn't aid electrical continuity, yet in practise it does....
I can't use solvents or other 'smelly' stuff even up the loft due to a SWMBO with a sense of smell keener than a Bloodhound's.

 

[paratom]

Looking at the Peco track rubber and comparing it to a piece of 1200 wet and dry paper I would say that the rubber is going to do more damage to the track than the paper. What does the rubber contain anyway? I suppose the real test would be to get two rails one of which has been cleaned the traditional way with a track rubber, the same rail that has been cleaned with 1200 paper and a brand new one that has been cleaned with paper then examine them under a microscope to see if there is a noticeable difference in them.

 

[Brian Daniels]

I use one of these Roco track rubber. Lasts a good few years and does not seem to leave little deposits on the rail. And they are a nice big handful, just right for O Gauge.

 

[simond]

Graphite is wonderful stuff, and is most certainly conductive.

There is a story considering a local chap (no names, no packdrill) who liberally coated the rails of his exhibition layout to ensure good pickup and I am assured (sadly I was not there) that electrical continuity was not the slightest problem at all. Wheels rotated at the slightest touch of the controller. Graphite is also a lubricant. The layout was not intentionally installed with a gradient however... wheels rotated, and movement was there none. Even light engine moves required the HoG.

It is still referred to as "the Great Graphite Storm of 2012".

 

[76043]

I use the DOGA track rubber, but it does leave deposits which I then hoover up afterwards with a mini conservation hoover. How this compares to the Peco one I don't know. I occasionally use lighter fluid to clean the track, but always use it before a show on the loco wheels. Cotton buds are always filthy after a once over on the wheels and rails.

On graphite, as I understand it the issue is one of over application. Demented colouring-in should be avoided, it just requires a once over.

I'll be investigating RailZip.
Cheers
Tony

 

[simond]

knowing the person in question, "Demented colouring-in" is most apt

 

[Debs.]

Graphite is wonderful stuff, and is most certainly conductive.

There is a story considering a local chap (no names, no packdrill) who liberally coated the rails of his exhibition layout to ensure good pickup and I am assured (sadly I was not there) that electrical continuity was not the slightest problem at all. Wheels rotated at the slightest touch of the controller. Graphite is also a lubricant. The layout was not intentionally installed with a gradient however... wheels rotated, and movement was there none. Even light engine moves required the HoG.

It is still referred to as "the Great Graphite Storm of 2012".

"Tribology and Lubricity: change here for Low-Wear" ☺️

 

[Jordan or Plymouth Mad]

On graphite, as I understand it the issue is one of over application. Demented colouring-in should be avoided, it just requires a once over.

Nail + head = Hit!!

Love the mental image invoked by 'demented colouring in', though...

 

[Longbow]

This topic has been scientifically tested - see YouTube.

Best practice seems to be to avoid anything abrasive and to clean with a non-polar solvent (eg contact cleaner).

The rationale is that abrasive cleaning of the rail creates slight scratches which in combination with a polar solvent promotes micro-arcing and the creation of deposits.