Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Seems like a plan to me. Oft'you jolly well go! (with apologies to Jimmy Young)
nascar24
Active Member
I might have to include my Steve Beattie D603 bought built from Ebay sometime ago, why did I buy it I still ask myself! it is as bad as your 31, suppose I will have to upload some photos sometime!!
Cheers
Al
nascar24
Active Member
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the vote of confidence! If I can manage to get a silk sows ear I'll be happyGood suggestion on the fan. The ultimate aim is DCC sound so a working fan would be too good an opportunity to miss. Are there kits available or could I get a Heljan spare. I hear there's a good supplier, I think I remember Howes as a source for Heljan spares?
Steve
Steve,
You might want to get back in touch with MMP to pick up one of the Main Line Diesel Locomotive Fittings Set. It includes (amongst a host of other things) the following Class 31-useful parts; fan and grille set, ploughs, blinds, step tread, cab seats (and various other bits and pieces), door handles, windscreen wipers, builders plates, etc, etc. A thoroughly recommended and very useful set.
For a fan motor I've got one of these to play with: http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=170&products_id=1002. The low voltage means it can be run (with a suitable resistor in series) from a DCC decoder function output.
Any good?
Steph
S
SteveO
Guest
Thanks Steph. Mr P did mention it to me when I called but at the time I didn't know if this was going to work out. As it seems to be going well so far I may call him back about it. He's got loads of goodies including a 47 detail pack for the Heljan. I may save on postage and get them both at the same time.
The motors are quite nice and small so would suit this perfectly!
Steve
The motors are quite nice and small so would suit this perfectly!
Steve
S
SteveO
Guest
Finally got round to removing the bogie fixing points and the fuel tanks tonight – the other half is on a girl's night out! While the cat's away...
I thought I'd quickly throw on the ends to what it will look like when finished. They are only stuck on with double-sided tape so are not fixed, plus I still need to do a little reprofiling where the roof meets the sides. While removing all the bits I need to resize, a lot of the side grills fell out so I'll put those back later when my new soldering stuff arrives.
Does anyone know how I'm going to eventually fix the cabs to the body? I'm guessing some sort of epoxy, rather than superglue (or double-sided tape!).
The light is awful for taking shots in our lounge and is designed more for slightly more romantic pastimes...
I thought I'd quickly throw on the ends to what it will look like when finished. They are only stuck on with double-sided tape so are not fixed, plus I still need to do a little reprofiling where the roof meets the sides. While removing all the bits I need to resize, a lot of the side grills fell out so I'll put those back later when my new soldering stuff arrives.
Does anyone know how I'm going to eventually fix the cabs to the body? I'm guessing some sort of epoxy, rather than superglue (or double-sided tape!).
The light is awful for taking shots in our lounge and is designed more for slightly more romantic pastimes...
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
Looks better already 
I would be tempted to use epoxy too, maybe with some strips on the inside going the opposite way to the join epoxy'd in as well for added insurance
I would be tempted to use epoxy too, maybe with some strips on the inside going the opposite way to the join epoxy'd in as well for added insurance
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I woulsd probably try 4" x No. 12 wood screws....
...but then I can even make a mess of putting up a wood fence panel...
Nice to see that the body anmd cabs are getting close to a common profile.
regards, Graham
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Yes i to would go with a two part epoxy and possibly scoring the resin tab where the brass will fix. Also rough up the inside surface of the brass so that both areas have a nice key where the glue will be. Try and clamp as much of the area as well and leave for about 2days to harden.
Rob
Rob
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Why ain't you in the garden!!!!!!!!Yes i to would go with a two part epoxy and possibly scoring the resin tab where the brass will fix. Also rough up the inside surface of the brass so that both areas have a nice key where the glue will be. Try and clamp as much of the area as well and leave for about 2days to harden.
Rob
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Cause its raining
marsa69
Western Thunderer
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
LOLAnd? You're skins waterproof isn't it?
*ahem*.... Ignoring the weather, etc....
That looks a lot better already, Steve!!
I'm sure David can say what method MMP recommend for gluing the resin to brass.
I cannot Jordon!
The reason being that in the MMP kit they were held in place by other brass parts within them [mainly the cab floors] that were joined to the central body/rear cab bulkhead assembly.
I would possibly favour an epoxy but I think some other form of strengthening will be required too.
Regards,
DJP/MMP
S
SteveO
Guest
Another new arrival, a gas pen torch and some liquid solder. We are moving at the end of this month into a house with a garden. This can only mean one thing – a SHED! I'll then be able to not worry about little inquisitive hands getting hold of dangerous stuff and leave projects 'on the workbench' actually on the workbench and not have to pack them away every time I get them out.
I've also got a 'normal' iron but working in a non-electrified shed plus waiting for the iron to heat up are problems avoided with this little beauty.
I've also got a 'normal' iron but working in a non-electrified shed plus waiting for the iron to heat up are problems avoided with this little beauty.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
These look pretty good for the money http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers/special_buys3_25519.htm
S
SteveO
Guest
That's not a bad price for all the kit you get with it. I bought the solder paste and the iron for less than a fiver from Taiwan, with free shipping too. The only problem is that I had to wait 5 weeks for it to arrive!
The other pen torch that I bought has been consigned to the out tray. It was one of those Blackspur blue ones. It worked for an hour then broke and all the gas came streaming out. Got an instant refund though and seemed like they half expected a problem with it.
The other pen torch that I bought has been consigned to the out tray. It was one of those Blackspur blue ones. It worked for an hour then broke and all the gas came streaming out. Got an instant refund though and seemed like they half expected a problem with it.
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I have the older version of the Aldi gas torch & it as good as my other expensive gas torch
S
SteveO
Guest
It's way too late for me to be up drinking tea and looking through pages of pictures on class31.co.uk, but I am!
To carry on with this mess I need to figure out what I have – I simply don't know. Having looked at the site above, there seems to be quite a few differences between 31s. The two most obvious body differences that can pin down this particular loco's destiny are steps behind one of the cab doors (I don't have any so it can't be one of those variants) and the exhaust outlets. Mine are two oblong holes, where many are single round holes of various dimensions and styles. I'm guessing these could be later models and/or engine upgrades.
So, before I continue, what are my options in regards to prototype? I can't see a definitive description of the various guises of 31s anywhere so I'm stumped.
I'm home alone again tomorrow night (tonight actually, it's 2.10am!) so I can start soldering the grills back in that fell out while unsoldering it. Perhaps also cutting some angle brass for strengthening the body sides too, and taking out those over-scale grab handles on the roof.
A small footnote. I was going to complete this for pulling my Mk1 Suburbans but as I have now sold them on, this requirement no longer exists and will probably open up more options, which I hope is a good thing. This also applies to livery – I'm no longer fussed about what colour it is.
To carry on with this mess I need to figure out what I have – I simply don't know. Having looked at the site above, there seems to be quite a few differences between 31s. The two most obvious body differences that can pin down this particular loco's destiny are steps behind one of the cab doors (I don't have any so it can't be one of those variants) and the exhaust outlets. Mine are two oblong holes, where many are single round holes of various dimensions and styles. I'm guessing these could be later models and/or engine upgrades.
So, before I continue, what are my options in regards to prototype? I can't see a definitive description of the various guises of 31s anywhere so I'm stumped.
I'm home alone again tomorrow night (tonight actually, it's 2.10am!) so I can start soldering the grills back in that fell out while unsoldering it. Perhaps also cutting some angle brass for strengthening the body sides too, and taking out those over-scale grab handles on the roof.
A small footnote. I was going to complete this for pulling my Mk1 Suburbans but as I have now sold them on, this requirement no longer exists and will probably open up more options, which I hope is a good thing. This also applies to livery – I'm no longer fussed about what colour it is.