W1 as rebuilt
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- 7mm djh finney7 kit design lner martin finney
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Were the prototype's window frames not brass - wouldn't it be better to have the cab etched in brass rather than nickel-silver?
Steph
Were the prototype's window frames not brass - wouldn't it be better to have the cab etched in brass rather than nickel-silver?
Steph
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Steph, afraid not, no brass frames on LNER side windows, all wood I'm afraid. certainly the classes I've researched so far.
V2
A4
There is a brass rim to hold the glass in on the inside, but I drew the line at that insanity
The only brass glazing surround I've found to date is the front spectacle plate.
On the A4 several were cleaned up but quickly tarnished and some seem to be painted in loco colour (I'm talking BR here) or badly tarnished, however the other classes seem on the whole to be painted loco colour unless bulled up for some special occasion.
The cab etch does have the spectacle plate in NS which is incorrect, I don't have any brass etches worked up for other projects at the moment, when I do I'll squeeze some on, otherwise it'll cost a fortune just for the cab spectacle plates. that's the biggest problem when working in NS, for some parts you need to run a special etch just for the little bits of brass you need, unless your modeling the WR
V2
A4
There is a brass rim to hold the glass in on the inside, but I drew the line at that insanity
The only brass glazing surround I've found to date is the front spectacle plate.
On the A4 several were cleaned up but quickly tarnished and some seem to be painted in loco colour (I'm talking BR here) or badly tarnished, however the other classes seem on the whole to be painted loco colour unless bulled up for some special occasion.
The cab etch does have the spectacle plate in NS which is incorrect, I don't have any brass etches worked up for other projects at the moment, when I do I'll squeeze some on, otherwise it'll cost a fortune just for the cab spectacle plates. that's the biggest problem when working in NS, for some parts you need to run a special etch just for the little bits of brass you need, unless your modeling the WR
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Cracking on now, base footplate finished
I may adjust the footplate overlay under the cab to give a stronger fixing, I'll sleep on that, it's only a few lines to move inboard and add the required slots.
I've changed my mind about the cylinder wrappers, there's a better way to make them and attach to the chassis, it's been an ongoing niggle to resolve how to keep the cylinders fixed to the frames but make a (constant) neat joint with the footplate, but I think I have it now, it does mean that the cylinder wrappers on the chassis etch are no longer required. I've also spotted that the lubricator bracket is too short by 1.0 mm so the lubricator pots do not sit dead centre in their openings on the drivers side footplate, easy enough to add a correct one here, or you can keep the old one and just shunt the shelves out by 1.0 mm, the old one would the wider S7 frames perfectly, so not a waste if I ever go down that road.
So, tomorrow it'll be the new wrappers and then the rest of the valance before tabbing up and hatching ready for printing.
I may adjust the footplate overlay under the cab to give a stronger fixing, I'll sleep on that, it's only a few lines to move inboard and add the required slots.
I've changed my mind about the cylinder wrappers, there's a better way to make them and attach to the chassis, it's been an ongoing niggle to resolve how to keep the cylinders fixed to the frames but make a (constant) neat joint with the footplate, but I think I have it now, it does mean that the cylinder wrappers on the chassis etch are no longer required. I've also spotted that the lubricator bracket is too short by 1.0 mm so the lubricator pots do not sit dead centre in their openings on the drivers side footplate, easy enough to add a correct one here, or you can keep the old one and just shunt the shelves out by 1.0 mm, the old one would the wider S7 frames perfectly, so not a waste if I ever go down that road.
So, tomorrow it'll be the new wrappers and then the rest of the valance before tabbing up and hatching ready for printing.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
All done....Actually it's not, just spotted that the little fence around the lubricator opening is missing, but other than that, all done.
On to the last sheet with bogie, trailing trucks, valve gear and any other fiddly little bit's I've forgotten or think should be added.
I'm hoping PPD will have the footplate and cab etches back before Kettering so I can whip them onto the test model, with only six weeks to go, it might be a bit touch and go to get the last sheet turned around in time.
After that, change of reference material and on with the next project
On to the last sheet with bogie, trailing trucks, valve gear and any other fiddly little bit's I've forgotten or think should be added.
I'm hoping PPD will have the footplate and cab etches back before Kettering so I can whip them onto the test model, with only six weeks to go, it might be a bit touch and go to get the last sheet turned around in time.
After that, change of reference material and on with the next project
Nick Dunhill
Western Thunderer
Mick, did you do wash out plugs mudhole covers etc for body?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Yup, on the cab etch, top right hand side, see post 140 and enlarge the image.
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Mick,
That front bogie looks great. I note that when the W1 was under investigation after the derailment that the Brighton Atlantics were stopped too; their bogie was the same. Both were effectively GNR designs.
So, I'll need to check, but I may well be interested in a couple of sets of etches of the bogie to drop in the boxes with the Atlantics.
What are your plans for the axleboxes and springs?
Cheers,
Steph
That front bogie looks great. I note that when the W1 was under investigation after the derailment that the Brighton Atlantics were stopped too; their bogie was the same. Both were effectively GNR designs.
So, I'll need to check, but I may well be interested in a couple of sets of etches of the bogie to drop in the boxes with the Atlantics.
What are your plans for the axleboxes and springs?
Cheers,
Steph
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Steph,
Cheers, it's as close to 1:1 as is reasonably practicable, there are no official NRM drawings that I've found yet so some parts are 'best' guess, primarily the front and rear transverse bulkheads with their oval holes, the rest is pretty accurate I think. Looking at the above I've forgotten the guard irons and front spring dust covers
The best source for drawings is the actual RAIB accident report, there's a nice overall detailed drawing of the bogie after the accident showing cracks and repairs, certainly good enough for model making.
http://www.railwaysarchive.co.uk/documents/MoT_Westwood1955.pdf
Axle boxes and springs, not my problem, that's down to the individual builders to source, best ones would be the ones from A3 or A4 locos as they are pretty much the same if not identical, Ragstone, LG.
I did get some from Hobbyhorse? for my A3, they're still in the bag whilst I try and source better ones, can't recall exactly what was wrong with them but they didn't stay out of the bag or on the work bench for very long.
All the best
Mick D
Cheers, it's as close to 1:1 as is reasonably practicable, there are no official NRM drawings that I've found yet so some parts are 'best' guess, primarily the front and rear transverse bulkheads with their oval holes, the rest is pretty accurate I think. Looking at the above I've forgotten the guard irons and front spring dust covers
The best source for drawings is the actual RAIB accident report, there's a nice overall detailed drawing of the bogie after the accident showing cracks and repairs, certainly good enough for model making.
http://www.railwaysarchive.co.uk/documents/MoT_Westwood1955.pdf
Axle boxes and springs, not my problem, that's down to the individual builders to source, best ones would be the ones from A3 or A4 locos as they are pretty much the same if not identical, Ragstone, LG.
I did get some from Hobbyhorse? for my A3, they're still in the bag whilst I try and source better ones, can't recall exactly what was wrong with them but they didn't stay out of the bag or on the work bench for very long.
All the best
Mick D
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
That's interesting stuff, Mick. I'll need an evening or two to read it though.
Brian
Brian
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Rear pony finished, just need to wrestle with the Cartazzi truck, which is certainly not leaving the best until last...if it is to fit inside correctly scaled frames, rather than a full radial Cartazzi I might opt for a simpler sliding truck with no radial moment and try and shoe horn that in.
This only leaves the firebox lower + ashpan and intermediate driver sandbox's which I'd completely forgotten about until now on this sheet.
Valve gear will go on another sheet as it needs to be a much thicker material and I need to mentally wrestle with a few of those components before drafting them out, but before I do that I'm going to have a break from the W1 for a while before I get totally burnt out with it.....it's been close to being binned a few times these last few weeks.
I've another couple of projects I want to crack on with as a break and breath of fresh air, but I'll still post here when the rest of the etches above roll in from PPD and get built up.
This only leaves the firebox lower + ashpan and intermediate driver sandbox's which I'd completely forgotten about until now
on this sheet. Valve gear will go on another sheet as it needs to be a much thicker material and I need to mentally wrestle with a few of those components before drafting them out, but before I do that I'm going to have a break from the W1 for a while before I get totally burnt out with it.....it's been close to being binned a few times these last few weeks.
I've another couple of projects I want to crack on with as a break and breath of fresh air, but I'll still post here when the rest of the etches above roll in from PPD and get built up.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
More instruction writing looms
Apologies for the poor images, the big Bess camera died last night and is in the repair shop, so I dragged out the old faithful 40D battle wagon, it's amazing how quick you get used to the new quality when you see images like this, despite post processing.
All the best
MD
Apologies for the poor images, the big Bess camera died last night and is in the repair shop, so I dragged out the old faithful 40D battle wagon, it's amazing how quick you get used to the new quality when you see images like this, despite post processing.
All the best
MD
Richard Spoors
Western Thunderer
Brilliant! Can't wait for the build to start.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Well I couldn't wait to try the revised cylinder covers, not too shabby despite dropping the chassis and bending just about every empennage available....now how does that happen? It lands on one side/end yet the other side is equally fecked up 
Still, it all straightened out reasonably well.
The correct profiled cylinder wrapper and footplate now show that there's still work to be done on the shell to make it match.
The wrapper is attached to the cylinder but the footplate is attached to the body, the joint will eventually be hidden by overlapping parts.
There's a new etch underneath the footplate and attached to the cylinder top to hold the fore and aft fingers of the cylinder wrapper nice and square which I'll photograph tomorrow....I'm not prodding it any more tonight
All the best
MD
Still, it all straightened out reasonably well. The correct profiled cylinder wrapper and footplate now show that there's still work to be done on the shell to make it match.
The wrapper is attached to the cylinder but the footplate is attached to the body, the joint will eventually be hidden by overlapping parts.
There's a new etch underneath the footplate and attached to the cylinder top to hold the fore and aft fingers of the cylinder wrapper nice and square which I'll photograph tomorrow....I'm not prodding it any more tonight
All the best
MD
mickoo
Western Thunderer
JB, It's not that hard, the footplate curve you can work out from the frame drawing, the cylinder front and rear curves are roughly on one of the drawings, not the frame but I think the AWS conduit fitting of all things, or a good side view of an A4 will suffice, they're pretty much the same if not identical except the bulge for the cylinder is not present on the A4 class.
Plot the points in Autocad and just join the dots up. The hard part is deciding whether to adjust these bits to suit the body casting, or bend the casting to suit the correct footplate line, probaly the latter but there's a big gap at the top of the buffer casing that need filling and leveling. I'll grab the Hachette A4 body tonight and see how that offers up as I think the front end is better shaped than the DJH body, next I'll grab a Finney A4 body from someone and offer that up in case anyone has one lying around they want to bash into a W1.
All the best
MD
Plot the points in Autocad and just join the dots up. The hard part is deciding whether to adjust these bits to suit the body casting, or bend the casting to suit the correct footplate line, probaly the latter but there's a big gap at the top of the buffer casing that need filling and leveling. I'll grab the Hachette A4 body tonight and see how that offers up as I think the front end is better shaped than the DJH body, next I'll grab a Finney A4 body from someone and offer that up in case anyone has one lying around they want to bash into a W1.
All the best
MD
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Mick,
Definitely the casting that needs sorting, compared to this photo your etch is spot on mate.
