7mm Loose Ends

[djparkins]

Passengers? no way am i painting that many

I think i shall try some of this http://www.creativemodels.co.uk/perfect_plastic_putty-p-28808.html its water soluble so I should be able to smooth it easily.
Paper soaked in pva is a good idea Phill

Why not paint them using one of the Tamiya texture paints as an base colour. You can apply a second coat very quickly after the first and it would hide that. Then you also have a textured [upholstered] surface on which to paint them in the correct finishing colour.

 

[28ten]

Ah Well Cynric - not all designers are the same! Can I ask why the seat cushioning seems to slope downwards towards the front of the seat? - it would be quite dodgy travelling on those, especially with your back to the loco! The central arm/headrests seem to be the wrong shape for Mk.1 stock of that era.

Regards,

DJP

They represent well worn seats in NSE days
I do like the inner skins, they solve a lot of little problems.

 

[Phill Dyson]

They represent well worn seats in NSE days
I do like the inner skins, they solve a lot of little problems.

....mmm a rake of well worn NSE MK1's

 

[28ten]

I need to make sure all the buffers and kaydees line up for these coaches, so its jig time. Very simple, the holes are the correct height and spacing, I could probably turn something to fit the holes, but its pretty self explanatory. I would imagine something similar would work for auto couplings.


In action

A quick couple of shots showing the crew being test fitted. The effort to sand the window surrounds was worth it imho




Finally showing the bogie. the rods just clear the valance, but there is further work for Mr Proxxon to remove some of the brake casting

 

[Dog Star]

The effort to sand the window surrounds was worth it...

I think that I must have missed the discussion on this point... if possible can you please provide a reference to the original post.

 

[28ten]

I think that I must have missed the discussion on this point... if possible can you please provide a reference to the original post.

It may be something Steve Harrod and i discussed, but as supplied the angle on the frame is way to prominent, so I went in with the sanding stick it is one of those things that would be better etched.....

 

[28ten]

Fingers crossed I shall be able to start looking at the truss this week, which might interest a few of you about to hack EZB underframes which I believe are plastic I want to finalise the mods for this before doing the photo tool for the bogie as I may well wish to add a couple of bits.

 

[Jordan]

Finally showing the bogie. the rods just clear the valance, but there is further work for Mr Proxxon to remove some of the brake casting

Blimey that IS close!! Wouldn't work on my track, then....

 

[Railwaymaniac]

Fingers crossed I shall be able to start looking at the truss this week, which might interest a few of you about to hack EZB underframes which I believe are plastic I want to finalise the mods for this before doing the photo tool for the bogie as I may well wish to add a couple of bits.

I need to make sure all the buffers and kaydees line up for these coaches, so its jig time. Very simple, the holes are the correct height and spacing, I could probably turn something to fit the holes, but its pretty self explanatory. I would imagine something similar would work for auto couplings.

Adding the three bits of brass for this jig would be nice too, please?

Ian

 

[28ten]

Blimey that IS close!! Wouldn't work on my track, then....

The body needs to go up a little on the bogie, the problem is not what you can see its the brake hanger you cant see.

 

[28ten]

I have a headache from banging my head against a wall
I started looking at the truss and something looked wrong so I measured up and compared to the dwg in Parkin, the gap between the L should be 2ft (14mm) and this aint its 10.2mm


I dont know if anybody else building these kits ever noticed it, its something else I could add onto the bogie etch, although I could just fabricate them from brass angle using the chop saw and an mdf jig.
This isnt supposed to be a super detail build now I know there is a problem it cant be left. Christmas 2020 at this rate and the underframe needs to be sorted before the body can be started.

 

[Railwaymaniac]

Not good. And I'm quite surprised that NQLTRT would make a mistake like that. . .

The parts on the Easybuild kit are a nominal 14mm across there, so what they supply is right (whew! <relieved>), although following discussions on here I'm also considering throwing the plastic bits of the truss rodding in the spares box and using brass angle instead.
What 'chop saw' have you got, please? - I'm due to pay a visit to Axminster tools tomorrow to look at some form of cutting tool for use on this task.

Ian

 

[28ten]

Proxxon KG5o. it was about £80 when I bought mine. Brass angle will give a more robust job, it all depends what you want, although I used brass on the EZB's.

 

[28ten]

A quick visit to Mr laser and a few ideas on making jigs. Firstly I thought cut and lay the brass, but the a better idea on the right is to use the angle to support itself and cut narrow holes to give firm support. The jigs wont last long but that doesnt matter, something similar for the longitudinal angle will also be needed, but im planning on using the kit parts for that.

The chop saw awaiting instruction - note the bin in close proximity

 

[28ten]

Having drawn up the truss, more jigs have been lasered, in this case for a GUV. all the angles are marked ready for the chop saw. After this test I will cut the parts for all 8 underframes.

It would be fair to say im Mr Grumpy after having to do all this.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Which Kadee's are you planning on using ?

 

[28ten]

I dont know yet Phill, whatever fits! Im not worried about uncoupling just being able to rail the coaches and push them together.
Much cursing and swearing has produced a representation of the truss. All this is from old school strip and L angle. I know what I need to etch for the main batch and the arts will fit along the edge of the inner bogie etch. The most important part is that the whole lot can be securely fixed with glue and screws to the plastic chassis floor.


To show solidarity with Mike..... next step some paint.

 

[Simon]

I dont know yet Phill, whatever fits! Im not worried about uncoupling just being able to rail the coaches and push them together.
Much cursing and swearing has produced a representation of the truss. All this is from old school strip and L angle. I know what I need to etch for the main batch and the arts will fit along the edge of the inner bogie etch. The most important part is that the whole lot can be securely fixed with glue and screws to the plastic chassis floor.
View attachment 14664

To show solidarity with Mike..... next step some paint.
View attachment 14665

Whitemetal axleguards notwithstanding, that is a very nice looking chunk of Fruit D-ishness

I haven't got the motivation to get back on to my brass version yet, plus I need some brass strip for the bottom edge of the solebar.

More positively, Captain Kernow is lending me his resistance soldering unit this weekend, so I'm going to attempt the PMV as well.

Simon

 

[28ten]

The body is a lovely moulding but the chassis is less lovely. Id would like a bigger one though
Leave the PMV or I might feel inclined to get mine out I had some more photos arrive for Wallingford today including a very useful view of the station from the forecourt.

 

[Ressaldar]

many thanks for the 'heads up' on the Fruit D Guv, I had little time yesterday to do much - just got the trusses done before going to the Club. It's 'taking Aged Auntie shopping day' today, so again there will not be much progress, but hopefully enough to get the camera out at the end of it.

cheers

Mike