NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Morning Grahame. I have to agree with you there. I hope to be posting some progress on Bleat soon but I am away at present so no access to the layouts.
Rob.
The Sheep Chronicles.
- Thread starter NHY 581
- Start date
Morning Grahame. I have to agree with you there. I hope to be posting some progress on Bleat soon but I am away at present so no access to the layouts.
Rob.
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Here are a few more images of Mutton following on from the recent posts featuring Sheep Lane.
I found that despite having other locomotive types available to run on Mutton, I invaribly keep to the Radials. I have an example of each but 30582 is in works at present. It has never ran as well as 583 and 584 despite much tweaking.
All require further detailing and the addition of crew ahead of Octobers show.
I also include a photo of the usual coaching stock. This is a standard Hornby Maunsell brake which has been weathered.
Rob.
I found that despite having other locomotive types available to run on Mutton, I invaribly keep to the Radials. I have an example of each but 30582 is in works at present. It has never ran as well as 583 and 584 despite much tweaking.
All require further detailing and the addition of crew ahead of Octobers show.
I also include a photo of the usual coaching stock. This is a standard Hornby Maunsell brake which has been weathered.
Rob.
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Morning all,To bring things up to the current state of play, here are a couple of photos of Bleat Wharf.
This is my current build and an entry in the MRJ Cameo competition. There is a separate thread in the Cameo section on this forum so I won't waffle on too much about it.
Bleat is due to be exhibited in January next year and I have returned to ex S&DJR territory in Somerset for this one.
Depicting a slightly run down wharf ( minus any depiction of a harbourside) it hopefully maintains a spacious, minimalist approach.
All the usual suspects abound. PECO track, RTR stock and buildings by Bachmann and Hornby are supported by IKEA products illuminated by Herr LIDL with power by Gaugemaster.
Nothing special or finescale but all bits and bobs are readily available to the masses, of which I am one.
As I say, not too much detail and the photos have already appeared on the Cameo thread but here just to complete the trio.
Very much a work in progress.
Rob.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
.....and the weathering is lovely.
Brian
Brian
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Thank you Brian. I must say your LB&SCR K looks lovely. Very much a favourite class of mine.
The weathering is all done using Humbrol weathering powders which are sealed with a light dusting of Humbrol matt acrylic powders.
I use the same colours for all locos, rolling stock, buildings and the layout itself such as the concrete areas.
Once done I leave it for a day or so before sealing it just to make sure I am happy with it.
I apply the rust colour first, prefering to use Iron oxide rather than rust itself which is a bit bright then any shading with black or dark earth before toning and blending it all with Smoke. Further shading is applied using white very sparingly.
Here is a 'work in progress' image of one of the Radials. In the background is the image used as s reference by R C Riley taken at Lyme Regis.
Rob.
David Hall
Member
Cracking stuff Rob.
The colours and weathering is first class and means the overall picture is absolutely wonderful. I am very impressed!
You mention use of IKEA shelving and units for baseboards. Is it the LACK shelves you use? What about for the wider (40cm?) baseboard in the original post?
Many thanks,
David
The colours and weathering is first class and means the overall picture is absolutely wonderful. I am very impressed!
You mention use of IKEA shelving and units for baseboards. Is it the LACK shelves you use? What about for the wider (40cm?) baseboard in the original post?
Many thanks,
David
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Morning David.
Thank you for your kind words. I do try and ensure the overall picture blends.
Yes, the shelves are LACK floating shelves various lengths but all at 26cm width.
The scenic boards all utilise a 120cm x 40cm table top from a LACK ' nest of tables'.
It comes with a second table 55cm x 40cm, another potential baseboard......
All are 5cm deep.
The beauty of these are the lightness and the cost. The main board and two fiddle yards came in at £42 plus another £9 for the MDF for the backscene.
Bleat Wharf was £31 for the baseboards and Sheep Lane used two shelves costing £18 in total.
The draw back is the fact they are solid on the bottom. Wiring can be threaded through holes drilled in the back and I am guessing points could be moved by wire in tube subject to the height of the trackbed.
The bonus of having a solid bottom to the board is that of tidyness and the ease in which a small layout such as these can be set up on, say, a dining table for playing with.......operating.
Interally they are a type of card board 'honeycomb' which provides the lightweight construction.
I have not tampered with this as it is this that provides the structure. Any fitting of point motors underneath would require a hole in the bottom and material removing. In theory if the resulting hole was boxed in, this may retain the rigidity. However I have not tried this so cannot vouch for the effectiveness or otherwise. In any event a route would have to be found for any wiring which could be tricky.
The photos below show Mutton in its infancy and as is now......ish ( April 18)
Rob.
Thank you for your kind words. I do try and ensure the overall picture blends.
Yes, the shelves are LACK floating shelves various lengths but all at 26cm width.
The scenic boards all utilise a 120cm x 40cm table top from a LACK ' nest of tables'.
It comes with a second table 55cm x 40cm, another potential baseboard......
All are 5cm deep.
The beauty of these are the lightness and the cost. The main board and two fiddle yards came in at £42 plus another £9 for the MDF for the backscene.
Bleat Wharf was £31 for the baseboards and Sheep Lane used two shelves costing £18 in total.
The draw back is the fact they are solid on the bottom. Wiring can be threaded through holes drilled in the back and I am guessing points could be moved by wire in tube subject to the height of the trackbed.
The bonus of having a solid bottom to the board is that of tidyness and the ease in which a small layout such as these can be set up on, say, a dining table for playing with.......operating.
Interally they are a type of card board 'honeycomb' which provides the lightweight construction.
I have not tampered with this as it is this that provides the structure. Any fitting of point motors underneath would require a hole in the bottom and material removing. In theory if the resulting hole was boxed in, this may retain the rigidity. However I have not tried this so cannot vouch for the effectiveness or otherwise. In any event a route would have to be found for any wiring which could be tricky.
The photos below show Mutton in its infancy and as is now......ish ( April 18)
Rob.
David Hall
Member
Thanks Rob that is really useful. I was wondering about wiring and point control but your experience shows it is perfectly workable. The presentation of your layouts look superb too 
I have had a quick look at the IKEA website and it seems there are a number of sizes of LACK shelf available that could be utilised in a modular manner.
Are the tables you use the following ones: LACK Nest of tables, set of 2 Black/white - IKEA
Thanks again for your help and keep up the good work!!
David
I have had a quick look at the IKEA website and it seems there are a number of sizes of LACK shelf available that could be utilised in a modular manner.
Are the tables you use the following ones: LACK Nest of tables, set of 2 Black/white - IKEA
Thanks again for your help and keep up the good work!!
David
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Those tables must be the same basic honeycomb structure as an internal door.
Having once had to cut a door down in width (cutting back the honeycomb internals to allow insertion of another side rail), and having broken another up with a sledgehammer, I would be very confident about peppering them with cut-outs for point motors etc.
To put strength back I'd use a hole cutter same size as internal dia. as a pvc waste pipe (or even a cardboard postal tube) of required size, pilot drill right through, then cut hole from each side. Then slit a piece of pipe lengthways to permit insertion in hole, allowing it to spring out and support top and bottom sheets. Glue in and job done.
Having once had to cut a door down in width (cutting back the honeycomb internals to allow insertion of another side rail), and having broken another up with a sledgehammer, I would be very confident about peppering them with cut-outs for point motors etc.
To put strength back I'd use a hole cutter same size as internal dia. as a pvc waste pipe (or even a cardboard postal tube) of required size, pilot drill right through, then cut hole from each side. Then slit a piece of pipe lengthways to permit insertion in hole, allowing it to spring out and support top and bottom sheets. Glue in and job done.
simond
Western Thunderer
I like the tube approach, but I'd suggest not cutting the top surface - pilot from the top, drill from the bottom, stop before you cut through. Glue tube (possibly with suitable plug of ply to take screws) into the blind hole from below. I might be thinking of a larger diameter, say 4"?
This will be stiffer (tho' perhaps not enough to measure or even discern) and avoids having a lunar surface that needs to be covered before you lay track on it - and, perhaps more usefully, offers a fixing surface for the tortoise or whatever.
I recall reading years ago "you should never use a door as a baseboard", and wondering "why?". I suppose one good reason is that they do not readily fit through doors... (at least, not horizontally)
best
Simon
This will be stiffer (tho' perhaps not enough to measure or even discern) and avoids having a lunar surface that needs to be covered before you lay track on it - and, perhaps more usefully, offers a fixing surface for the tortoise or whatever.
I recall reading years ago "you should never use a door as a baseboard", and wondering "why?". I suppose one good reason is that they do not readily fit through doors... (at least, not horizontally)
best
Simon
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
From what I have worked out from my use of the IKEA LACK table tops, I would confirm the following;
The top and bottom faces are a matter of millimetres thick so they are probably reliant on the cardboard centres for their rigidity.
The four corners seem to be chipboard blocks, into which the legs are to be screwed.
Each end also appears to be chipboard, maybe 5cm deep x 1.2cm thickness.
If I were to fit point motors then these would come in from below with the smallest possible slot on the top face to allow the pin from the point motor to fit through.
Any opening from below would be boxed in with similar material and glued. A method of mounting the point motor would also need to be devised due to the thickness ( or otherwise !) of the surface material.
So, I think it is doable (?) but a bit more thought is needed.
Rob
The top and bottom faces are a matter of millimetres thick so they are probably reliant on the cardboard centres for their rigidity.
The four corners seem to be chipboard blocks, into which the legs are to be screwed.
Each end also appears to be chipboard, maybe 5cm deep x 1.2cm thickness.
If I were to fit point motors then these would come in from below with the smallest possible slot on the top face to allow the pin from the point motor to fit through.
Any opening from below would be boxed in with similar material and glued. A method of mounting the point motor would also need to be devised due to the thickness ( or otherwise !) of the surface material.
So, I think it is doable (?) but a bit more thought is needed.
Rob
David Hall
Member
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Good to see all of you on here Rob, Rob, Tim, Alan & Grahame I moved over a couple of weeks ago.
Sadly I'm here too!
NHY 581
Western Thunderer
Morning all.
I am thinking I will confine any activity of a Westerly nature to WT.
Any such build may take a little time as Bleat Wharf will take priority due to the exhibition deadlines looming..
However I am hoping that I can display the new layout in a part completed state at some point in the company of Bleat.
I also hope to provide updates regarding any stock/buildings as and when.
Rob.
I am thinking I will confine any activity of a Westerly nature to WT.
Any such build may take a little time as Bleat Wharf will take priority due to the exhibition deadlines looming..
However I am hoping that I can display the new layout in a part completed state at some point in the company of Bleat.
I also hope to provide updates regarding any stock/buildings as and when.
Rob.
Bob 81C
Member
I noticed you have been on here for sometime sorry to have missed you off the buddy list.
