I was going off this image I posted before:
Post in thread 'B1 - 61161' B1 - 61161
but now you mention it the last rivet is probably in shadow.
Simon
B1 - 61161
- Thread starter Dave Holt
- Start date
I was going off this image I posted before:
Post in thread 'B1 - 61161' B1 - 61161
but now you mention it the last rivet is probably in shadow.
Simon
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the additional photos, Simon.
Fully appreciated as a joke, but it has made me think that the original snap head fixings are quite noticeable. So, I've designed a simple drilling jig that locates on the speedometer mount and up against the protruding footplate edge. Whether or not I use it is for a later decision as the holes would be rather close to the edge of the footplate plastic moulding, with the risk of breaking out. We'll see.
I'm trying to get down to progressing the tender and have added some lead ballast to the chassis, fixed using slow setting Araldite - don't want any risk of it coming loose in future.
Dave.
Fully appreciated as a joke, but it has made me think that the original snap head fixings are quite noticeable. So, I've designed a simple drilling jig that locates on the speedometer mount and up against the protruding footplate edge. Whether or not I use it is for a later decision as the holes would be rather close to the edge of the footplate plastic moulding, with the risk of breaking out. We'll see.
I'm trying to get down to progressing the tender and have added some lead ballast to the chassis, fixed using slow setting Araldite - don't want any risk of it coming loose in future.
Dave.
Possibly a job for rivet decals (Archer or similar)?
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
I bought a sheet of Archers rivets years ago, for possible use on the C13 tank patches (but ended up with half etched N/S overlays), but have never used them. I have no idea where they are now.
Anyway, attention has turned back to the tender.
I had intended to paint the inner parts if the chassis before fitting the wheels but have got a bit carried away and the wheels and bottom cross members (which in effect make the wheel sets captive) have been fitted after attaching the spring wires to the bearing carriers. You can just make out that parts of the chassis have been painted with etch primer, as seen below.
Here's the current state of the chassis, with the scoop operating rod temporarily fitted using 0.35 mm drill bits through the forked ends.
In the instructions, it mentions that the scoop rod passes through some sort of guide. where it passes under the front cross stretcher. Has anyone any information about the nature and position of this guide?
Dave.
Anyway, attention has turned back to the tender.
I had intended to paint the inner parts if the chassis before fitting the wheels but have got a bit carried away and the wheels and bottom cross members (which in effect make the wheel sets captive) have been fitted after attaching the spring wires to the bearing carriers. You can just make out that parts of the chassis have been painted with etch primer, as seen below.
Here's the current state of the chassis, with the scoop operating rod temporarily fitted using 0.35 mm drill bits through the forked ends.
In the instructions, it mentions that the scoop rod passes through some sort of guide. where it passes under the front cross stretcher. Has anyone any information about the nature and position of this guide?
Dave.
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
After fitting the loco speedometer mounting bracket, I noticed that the fireman's seat was missing from the cab. It must have become detached during all the handling and flicked somewhere in the room. A search of work bench and floor failed to locate the missing item, so some replacements were requested from Justin at Rumney Models.
One of these has now been fitted but this time I've used epoxy resin instead of cyno. Hopefully, it will remain better attached than it's predecessor.
Apologies for the slightly fuzzy photo.
Dave.
One of these has now been fitted but this time I've used epoxy resin instead of cyno. Hopefully, it will remain better attached than it's predecessor.
Apologies for the slightly fuzzy photo.
Dave.
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
The scoop operating rod has now been fixed, complete with a representation of the guide - which turned out to be a bolted on, "U" shaped, hoop (thanks to Dave Bradwell who sent me extracts from various GA drawings). My version is made from a bit of suitable width spare etch that was annealed to make it easier to form round a drill shank.
Also fixed is the rear portion of the brake pull rods.
Dave.
Also fixed is the rear portion of the brake pull rods.
Dave.
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Slowly whittling away at the outstanding jobs, the vacuum pipe/stanchion and steam heating pipe/valve have been added to the tender.]
These weren't the easiest of things to hold in place to get the first tack of solder, but got there after umpteen attempts.
My layout (if it ever progresses) is set in the none train heating season, so I tend to cut off the hose and just leave the shut off valve, as seen here. The hoses were usually removed when not needed for maintenance and safe keeping.
Looking at (the rare) published photos showing the rear of the Group Standard 4200 gallon tender, there should be an oval plate below the top lamp iron. Does anyone know if this was a builders plate or the water capacity?
Dave.
These weren't the easiest of things to hold in place to get the first tack of solder, but got there after umpteen attempts.
My layout (if it ever progresses) is set in the none train heating season, so I tend to cut off the hose and just leave the shut off valve, as seen here. The hoses were usually removed when not needed for maintenance and safe keeping.
Looking at (the rare) published photos showing the rear of the Group Standard 4200 gallon tender, there should be an oval plate below the top lamp iron. Does anyone know if this was a builders plate or the water capacity?
Dave.
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Morgan.
Not sure it completely solves my problem as Yeadon doesn't give the tender numbers vs locos. I wonder if that info is published anywhere else?
I have some oval plates, but they're for LMS tenders and don't look to have that layout of information.
What are you doing for your J39?
Dave.
Not sure it completely solves my problem as Yeadon doesn't give the tender numbers vs locos. I wonder if that info is published anywhere else?
I have some oval plates, but they're for LMS tenders and don't look to have that layout of information.
What are you doing for your J39?
Dave.
45609
Western Thunderer
Morning Dave, I'm not sure what I'm doing on the J39 yet. The clearest photo I have of the tender rear seems to show that the tender number plate was missing.
There is a Yeadon's volume, Appendix 2, if I recall, that covers tender numbering. I don't have a copy, so I have no idea if there is any useful content to assist with your B1.
Cheers...Morgan
There is a Yeadon's volume, Appendix 2, if I recall, that covers tender numbering. I don't have a copy, so I have no idea if there is any useful content to assist with your B1.
Cheers...Morgan
Dave Holt
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Morgan
I now realise that I took a photo of one of the preserved loco's tender at Toddington, last year. The plate has different layout and information compared with the V2 tender but, as with all preserved locos, I'm not 100% sure it's original, although it looks authentic.
Haven't got any plates that look even slightly similar. I've also tried to look on the 247 Developments site, where they list tender plates, but can't get the site to work. Not sure if they still trade.
Dave.
I now realise that I took a photo of one of the preserved loco's tender at Toddington, last year. The plate has different layout and information compared with the V2 tender but, as with all preserved locos, I'm not 100% sure it's original, although it looks authentic.
Haven't got any plates that look even slightly similar. I've also tried to look on the 247 Developments site, where they list tender plates, but can't get the site to work. Not sure if they still trade.
Dave.
James Spooner
Western Thunderer
Dave,
If you go onto Light Railway Stores they do a custom etching service for all sorts and shoes of plates. I generally use them for smoke box numberplates and shed plates but they will etch to your design or requirement (although you do have to be patient!). No connection except as a satisfied customer.
Nigel
If you go onto Light Railway Stores they do a custom etching service for all sorts and shoes of plates. I generally use them for smoke box numberplates and shed plates but they will etch to your design or requirement (although you do have to be patient!). No connection except as a satisfied customer.
Nigel
This appears to be the style for the Vulcan Foundry plates:
So generally like the one for 1306.
The RCTS volume suggests 240 B1s retained the same tender throughout their lives.
If we assume 61161 was one of them then knowing that 1040-61339 received tenders 4030-4329 suggests 61161 could reasonably be modelled with a plate showing 4151, although an oval covered in filfth would be fine in 4mm even if it doesn't meet your exacting standards!
Simon
B1 4-6-0 | 61179 1963-01-14 Harringay West
B1 No 61179 with its tender de-railed close to Harringay Up Goods signal box on 14th January 1963. Photo: Brian Stephenson
www.rail-online.co.uk
So generally like the one for 1306.
The RCTS volume suggests 240 B1s retained the same tender throughout their lives.
If we assume 61161 was one of them then knowing that 1040-61339 received tenders 4030-4329 suggests 61161 could reasonably be modelled with a plate showing 4151, although an oval covered in filfth would be fine in 4mm even if it doesn't meet your exacting standards!
Simon
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
1306 went in to preservation direct from BR. 1264 went through a lot more "restoration" from scrapyard condition at Barry. I knew a previous owner of 1306 very well who was certain that it was a great deal more "original" than 1264. Nevertheless even 1306 can't be considered in original condition.