Jon Nazareth's G3 workbench

[AndyB]

Jon,

With your demonstrated skill in working with styrene, I'm not quite sure what you're asking.
I make my pantograph patterns from 1mm material, fixed to a 1mm backing sheet.
You don't need to wory about putting radii in corners that will be the cutter radius, so some patterns can be made up using strips / shapes butted together rather than cutting a complex shape.
There is a good example of using a 'built-up' technique to produce a pattern here - http://lakes-pages.com/gauge3.co.uk/G3Forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1245.0;attach=2028;image
(Thanks Jamie!)
I'll try to post up a few more examples of my own this evening - unless someone else can beat me to it.

Andy

 

[Dan Randall]

Is there an easy way to cut styrene patterns for use on a pantograph? Someone has offered to cut a (some) spring hangers for my open carriage truck but I have to make the pattern

Regards
Jon

With a suitable CAD package, you could draw them up and have them laser cut.


Regards

Dan

 

[JimG]

Is there an easy way to cut styrene patterns for use on a pantograph? Someone has offered to cut a (some) spring hangers for my open carriage truck but I have to make the pattern

Jon,

There's a thread stared by Jamie three years ago on here

http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/pantograph-milling-coach-panelling-for-g3.1290/

although I suspect that Jamie might appear on this thread.

Jim.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

I started a topic on Pantograph Patterns in Q&A but have moved it here to keep my G3 items together.

Thank you Jim, that is very flattering but most if not all of my work with styrene has been making wagons and they all have straight sides and some a simple curved end. The spring hanger is somewhat different and I wasn't sure how to go about cutting it out but, I had a go and the pictures are below. The close up shows two nicks to the edge and I'm hoping that they won't cause a problem for the pantograph. In fact, I hope the pattern will be acceptable to the chap who will be using it, fingers crossed. I tried to keep the edges square but in the photos, they look quite rounded, fingers crossed again. The pattern is 10 x scale size as requested. The styrene looks pink but is standard white.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks everyone, for the replies. I've moved this topic to my G3 work bench so that I can keep G3 things together.
I was at one time keeping an eye out for a pantograph but the small bench variety were too expensive for me and they were a bit like hens teeth to find.

Jon

 

[Steve Cook]

Hi Jon
Just a quick note to say I have moved your Pantograph pattern making thread into this thread to make it easier to follow.
Cheers
Steve

 

[AndyB]

Jon,
No - those nicks should be no problem at all. They are only on one side and the pattern can simply be turned over for use.
Don't forget that any small error (+ / - 0.3mm) in your cutting will only be 0.03mm when reduced 10:1, and most of the profile of the spring hanger has no mating surface so your error will be well within a scale casting tolerance of the original!

Andy

 

[jamiepage]

Jon,
I'm sure those patterns will be fine. Just a thought- if you intend assembling spring shackles to the end of the J hangers with a pin through the hanger (as the real thing), you could with benefit drill a locating hole/ pop mark in the relevant place. Each piece could then have the hole location 'popped' with a vee shaped cutter immediately before being milled out from the sheet material. Mind you, best to liase with whoever is doing the work for you of course, but centre pop marks will make the subsequent drilling that much easier. The brake hangers pictured here were cut from thick brass sheet (c. 3mm if memory serves) and it was a lot easier to subsequently drill the various holes using pre- machined spots. The thickness of the hangers was about 0.8mm.
Do find a pantograph if you can; once you have one...

 

[Jon Nazareth]

The pop rivet tip is a good one, Jamie. I was going to drill a little hole but didn't think that it would be picked up but having read your idea, I will. The styrene is 1/16" thick which is the thickness the chap, John Taylor, asked for. Sorry, yes, my intention was to use a pin through a pair of plates well, I'm going to give it a go and see what comes out

Thanks for moving the topic, Steve.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

One more thing, the pantograph that you have Jamie, has a double name but I can't remember what it is. Could you enlighten me, please?

Regards
Jon

 

[Steve Cook]

Thanks for moving the topic, Steve.

No problem Jon.

Taylor Hobson is the name you are looking for
I think I may finally have tracked one down for myself too - its in 'kit form' right now and I'm awaiting confirmation of the model number, but I am excited to be finally getting my hands on one.

Steve

 

[jamiepage]

Jon,
Yes it is indeed a Taylor Hobson, as Steve notes. I have the bottom end Model A, bench mounted, fixed table etc. It can adjust from 1:1 to 16:1 although I almost always use only 2:1. Other models may be floor mounted, and one with an indexable table would probably be better.
I would absolutely not be without one now.
Jamie

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Evening All

This is the wagon, shown in the drawing above, so far. The curved styrene section was a bit of a nuisance but now that I know how to do it, it will be much easier the next time. There is a 'steel' strap that fits around the curve and down the sides. It is the junction of the curve and the strap where that dark line is but not sure why it is showing that way. It's okay on the model, honest. The next part is to fit the hinges and straps. There are three hinges per door. The etches look like straps and they need a little piece of tube soldered on to make them look like hinges. A fiddly job but okay to do with a bit of patience.

 

[jamiepage]

Very good work, Jon. I like it very much.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

I've been trying to download this picture to the G3 Forum without success but it seems to work on this site. I suppose this should be under layouts but it is G3 so, it's here now (unless anyone says differently).
This is the site of my small G3 out and back layout. The base boards are to fixed onto metal brackets screwed to the wall. You can just see 5 or so already in place. The first section is straight for about 9m and then the curve starts for another 9 or so metres. The garden bench will have to moved or it could run behind it. I think that I've bought a little too much track and so, I was going to put a bridge to nowhere at the end of the curve. Don't hold your breath over this one as the loco will not be painted until much latter in the year.

Jon

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Good evening all,

I need to put an 1/8" radius on two edges of this string of axleboxes. Any ideas? I'm not sure if there is such a thing as an end mill that has a radius. The sort of thing I'm thinking of is like a router cutter that would be used for wood. Mmmmmmm, that could be the way. A router cutter is normally made of HSS and it may last for two passes on brass. Anyone any comments?

Jon

 

[Paul Stokes]

Good evening all,

I need to put an 1/8" radius on two edges of this string of axleboxes. Any ideas? I'm not sure if there is such a thing as an end mill that has a radius. The sort of thing I'm thinking of is like a router cutter that would be used for wood. Mmmmmmm, that could be the way. A router cutter is normally made of HSS and it may last for two passes on brass. Anyone any comments?

JonView attachment 44581

Hi Jon

I would expect a HSS end mill to last longer than 2 passes, and my router cutters are made from Carbide, which should last longer than HSS, you also need something along the lines of these milling cutters with a radius.

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/39261005/hss-corner-rounding-cutters

have a look at this site above

Paul

 

[Jon Nazareth]

Thanks for that Paul, I'll give them a look.

Jon

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

Jon.
Rounding cutters are available, at a price, but it would not be very difficult just to file the corners. Make a little test template of the radius you require and file, testing for the correct profile frequently. Use an 8" or larger flat file rather than a needle file and finish off with some fine emery stuck to a board. Probably only take you 5 minutes, a lot less than the time it would take to set up a machine!
Ian.

 

[Jon Nazareth]

I've just looked at the prices of the cutters . But, you know what's it like when you want things to be just so hence my thoughts about the cutter. However, I may just be doing it your way, Ian.

Jon