7mm On Heather's workbench - a trio of JLTRT Mk2s

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right, it's been a while since the last update. Various reasons, some to do with a motivation failure, some to do with inclement weather, and some to do with the need to look for "real work", but that's beside the point really. :(

As I type, I have two remaining B4 bogie carcasses to complete. Then they'll get a clean, coat of primer (when the workshop defrosts), any remedial work needed, and the wheels fitted. Then I can move on to the bodywork. :thumbs:
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The inserts were superglued to the fronts of each wheel, trying to ensure the etched lifting holes roughly align on each side.
Heather, with what are you aligning the holes in one disk?.... exisitng holes in a Slater's wheel? the holes in the etched disk on the other wheel (on the axle)?

Raises a thought... for Mk.1 coaches running circa 1985, how many holes in each wheel disk?

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I drop the etch onto one wheel, avoiding the three holes if I can, and then flip the axle end-over-end to drop the other etch on, lining up roughly by Mk 1 Eyeball. :drool:

I don't quite understand why Slater's don't make 3ft coach wheels. I know the wagon wheel is a shade over diameter, but surely it's not impossible to make a suitable coach centre for the 3ft 1in diameter tyres they already make. :confused:

There are two holes, one each side of the wheel centre. I think they were used in workshops for sticking lifting lugs in when moving wheelsets about. I can't imagine they served any other purpose, though someone may well correct me there.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
... I have two remaining B4 bogie carcasses to complete. Then they'll get a clean, coat of primer (when the workshop defrosts), any remedial work needed, and the wheels fitted. ...
How do you get the wheels into the bogie frame after assembling (aka "knock together") the frame of the bogie?

regards, Graham
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The JLTRT B4s use a separate axlebox/spring casting. You can fit the axles and boxes after painting the main frames.

I'll do some photies this afternoon, when all will become clear (er).
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Here we go...

IMG_4694.jpg
First, here's frame construction soldering. Bolster, side frame and whatever-the-other-frames-are-called, plus the end stretchers, a total of 10 joints.

IMG_4707.jpg
An axle box and keeper plate. A Slater's standard top hat bearing drops into the oval hole, and the keeper is fitted over it. The bearing will slop up and down a little, giving rudimentary compensation to the axle.
IMG_4708.jpg
Here's a bearing cup installed.

IMG_4710.jpg
Each axlebox assembly can be fitted to the axle, and then dropped into the spaces in the frames. I have to say, it's a fairly simple system, but it's effective. You just need to be careful to ensure the axles are aligned properly, otherwise crabbing, derailments and much oaths of sweariness ensue.

IMG_4711.jpg
Soldering the axleboxes in place is not a simple task, but since the bogie will be painted before the axleboxes are actually fitted, I suspect some kind of adhesive will come into play instead. Notice how the brake hanger mouldings seem to be ideally placed for S7 standards? I wonder if that was planned, or a fluke.

IMG_4712.jpg
Voila! One B4 bogie, just requiring the torsion bar doodads to be fitted.
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Here we go...

View attachment 17131
First, here's frame construction soldering. Bolster, side frame and whatever-the-other-frames-are-called, plus the end stretchers, a total of 10 joints.

View attachment 17132
An axle box and keeper plate. A Slater's standard top hat bearing drops into the oval hole, and the keeper is fitted over it. The bearing will slop up and down a little, giving rudimentary compensation to the axle.
View attachment 17133
Here's a bearing cup installed.

View attachment 17134
Each axlebox assembly can be fitted to the axle, and then dropped into the spaces in the frames. I have to say, it's a fairly simple system, but it's effective. You just need to be careful to ensure the axles are aligned properly, otherwise crabbing, derailments and much oaths of sweariness ensue.

View attachment 17135
Soldering the axleboxes in place is not a simple task, but since the bogie will be painted before the axleboxes are actually fitted, I suspect some kind of adhesive will come into play instead. Notice how the brake hanger mouldings seem to be ideally placed for S7 standards? I wonder if that was planned, or a fluke.

View attachment 17136
Voila! One B4 bogie, just requiring the torsion bar doodads to be fitted.

Very nicely executed Heather. Don't forget the steps on diagonally opposed ends of each coach (one per bogie). JLTRT forgot them, but copperclad works perfectly.
MK2.jpg

Cheers

Tom
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Tom, thanks for reminding me!

I usually leave steps until later. I plan on those brackets along the frame, too. Presumably they're a kind of universal step bracket.
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Just as you say, they're on all the B4s and B5s. I should have said that's why I recommended copperclad. You can solder the steps to strips of brass and then form them into the bracket shape. The copper clad is easy to round the corners, and it makes the whole assembly nice a strong as well as easy to attach to the bogie.
MK2 step brackets.jpg

Cheers

Tom
 

tomstaf

Western Thunderer
Drove past there this time last year. Do you know where they have gone to ?.

Steve :cool:

A handful were bought up by people (preserved rlys and the like). But the majority went off to Booths sadly. There were 5 more 2 mins down the road in a lorry yard. Not sure if they've gone or are still there though. x1 Gat ex, x1 Satlink brake end, x1 IC, X1 B/G, and x1 B/G BSO.

Cheers

Tom
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Being bored with bogies, and currently unable to see them through their first coats of primer, I have turned my attention to the insides of the coaches.

IMG_4729.jpg

First, one of my favourite bits of our hobby, doing the research. The coaches I'm modelling are meant to represent vehicles travelled on by Richard Carr around 1981. They form part of a specific train he's trying to recreate. The problem is while we can be fairly sure of what the outsides looked like, and we have a good overview of what the insides ought to look like, it's very hard to pin down actual facts. As you can see, from my scribbles, at best all I can do is make an educated guesses from Harris' book, personal recollection and online image resources.

Here's what I think it should be finished like inside (bearing in mind a lot of the finer points won't be visible so at best we're looking at an overall impression):
  • Floor - olive green linoleum.
  • Tables - glossy black laminate, with wooden edges.
  • Seats - GRP backs in lightish battleship grey; cushions blue and green check; headrests and arms probably dark grey.
  • Passenger compartment walls - probably pale grey laminate, though the odd veneer panel might exist.
  • Vestibule ends - vibrant orange red.
  • Gangway doors - pinky red/salmon.
IMG_4730.jpg

I crack out the seat mouldings. JLTRT obviously uses some mechanical means to trim off sprues and so on.

IMG_4733.jpg

Working over the tissue paper the seats were wrapped in, I use a nice fat bristle brush (mine comes from the Early Learning Centre) to clean off all the shavings. At the same time, each moulding gets inspected for damage, and remaining mould release agent is scraped back. Sadly, there were one or two where the armrests had been broken off. I marked these with a black X so I could pick them out of the storage boxes quickly. I am assessing whether to repair or simply call JLTRT for replacements.

The seats will then be carefully cleaned up with a sharp blade to get rid of flash, and a nice big flat file to remove moulding pips and so on. Then they'll be cleaned with the bristle brush in warm soapy water, popped in the airing cupboard to dry thoroughly, and then the painting shall commence.

Now, the supplied seats are not right for the period I'm modelling. They appear to represent the later MK2F and onwards, and refurbished vehicles. As with most things, it's probably a compromise. It's correct for the 1990s and quite probably correct for Mk3 coaches, but incorrect for the 1970s and 1980s. I'm not going to worry about it. Once things are painted and behind the glazing I doubt anyone will complain.

Warning! Organised modeller ahead!

IMG_4734.jpg

Sorry. I don't like to muddle things up, so keeping them in tubs like this means I know which seats go with which coach. Note the marked seats that need repair/replacement. Behind, you can see the tubs containing the bogies and wheelsets. I wish I was this organised in real life!
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Heather

Sadly the seats are wrong for MK2 abc.

As for the tables they were a grey laminate with wooden edges, not black.


Richard
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
Heather

Sadly the seats are wrong for MK2 abc.

As for the tables they were a grey laminate with wooden edges, not black.


Richard

Not for the Mk2b's Richard - they had black formica tops (at least in the scond class) they also had varnished bodyside and transverse partition panels. (grey was used on the partitions of the Mk2c's). The armrests were trimmed in plain blue moquette - matching the darker of the two colours used on the seat back & cushion trim.

Bob.R
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I travelled in Mk2s circa 1973-1980... and my recollection is of tables with an aluminium edge - so where does that fit into the history?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Anyway, while things are drying after their soapy bath earlier, I have begun assessing the floors and couplings.

Richard specifies Kadees, as being simpler in use than the - admittedly rather nice - JLTRT cast knuckle coupler. The batch of Mk1s I built used a shorter shank coupler, which has proved to be troublesome for reach and caused issues with curves. Thoughtfully, for the Mk2s, Richard sent a longer shank version of the couplers.

Initial assessment seems to show these longer couplers will do the job nicely. I need to mill away a chunk of the floor moulding, as for the Mk1s, and I've made a simple plastic card template/size gauge so all the slots end up the same size. I'll illustrate and describe that once I've cleared the workbench and retrieved the Proxxon miller from the shed workshop.
 
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