7mm On Heather's workbench - a trio of JLTRT Mk2s

[Heather Kay]

Experiments with recreating the moquette.



Based on Bob's photo, I found some nearly suitable brass etched grille material in the Bits Box. I trimmed it to size and shaped to fit as snugly as possible over the seat moulding.



For reasons that escape me, I decided the base coat - which would represent the fine light lines of the pattern - should be a light olive green.



And here are the first attempts. Like most modellers who never look after their expensive sable brushes, I always have a good supply of superannuated size 0s past their prime. I use them for weathering and cleaning duties until the remaining hairs fall out. In this case, the brush was trimmed square to give me something to stipple colour through the mask, my aversion to airbrushing already recounted above.



It took me some time to work out an ideal consistency for the enamel. If I thinned it, it would blob right under the mask completely. If it was too dry it wouldn't get through the mask at all. The mask also showed the seats have a subtle curve in the cushion moulding, resulting in uneven coverage where I didn't expect it at first.


As an experiment, I think it worked as well as I expected. If anything, my choice of colours was way off! I think I will end up painting the seats dark blue first, and using black as the masked pattern.

 

[Dog Star]

If you think that the mesh mask is worthwhile then try making separate masks for the squab, back and headrest... doing the bases, then the backs, then the headreasts... this will minimise any opportunity for the mask to smudge what has been appliedto the seat.

regards, Graham

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Heather,

hope that these Filbert brushes might be the answer to a maiden's prayer - enlarge the printed matter for other options, especially the 'flat' set. I bought the set at the local artists shop for £9.99 - bought with painting coach seats in mind - still not used them yet.

cheers

Mike

 

[Dog Star]

OOOooooohhhh, graining Gresley Teaks!

Thank you Mike.

 

[Ressaldar]

OOOooooohhhh, graining Gresley Teaks!

Thank you Mike.

Graham, the bill is in the post

cheers

Mike

 

[Stu Fox]

Heather,

I've had some success with acrylics. Paint the lighter colour, then when 'tacky dry' use a broad flat brush with slightly more than 'dry brush' quantity to lightly apply a darker top coat. I did 'snakey swirls' pattern (GWR horsebox seat) but it might work by careful 'dabbing'.

Regards

Stu

 

[Heather Kay]

I've had some success with acrylics.

That's an idea.

So far, I've "undercoated" one coach-worth of seats. They're now in the airing cupboard to dry nice and hard, when they'll get their "top coat" of dark blue. Frankly, I'm not looking forward to the remaining 104...

It's been one of those days today, and my mood is now matching the weather. Time to step away from the workbench and computer before I do something I regret.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Hi Heather,

I would try painting the seats with the darker blue & then a quick blow over with a lighter blue over the masks with a rattle can .....a finer mesh for the mask could work better too perhaps?

BTW I have 8 MK11a's without any seating, as I can't face the prospect of making that lot!.....so I do sympathise with your painting dilemma

Cheers Phill

 

[Heather Kay]

Thanks for all the ideas, chaps. It's much appreciated.

After I'd cooled down for a spell, and the central heating had worked its magic and finally let the basecoat enamel dry properly, I've applied the dark blue topcoat to a full SOs worth of seats. They're now back in the airing cupboard for an overnight stint before I try the mesh and black enamel tomorrow.

Graham, there are 166 seats to do. Splitting the mesh mask into three parts would triple the amount of work to do. I'm up for that, but if you're volunteering...

I really need a more permanent spray booth setup. I've been meaning to set something up for years. With spraying, it's the setting up, preparing and cleaning up afterwards that's downside for me. I don't really get on with aerosols (though with this build I have some custom-brewed rattlecans for the livery colours which are apparently very good). I am an impatient modeller at the best of times, and having to wait for paint to dry annoys me!

 

[tomstaf]

Thanks for all the ideas, chaps. It's much appreciated.

After I'd cooled down for a spell, and the central heating had worked its magic and finally let the basecoat enamel dry properly, I've applied the dark blue topcoat to a full SOs worth of seats. They're now back in the airing cupboard for an overnight stint before I try the mesh and black enamel tomorrow.

Graham, there are 166 seats to do. Splitting the mesh mask into three parts would triple the amount of work to do. I'm up for that, but if you're volunteering...

I really need a more permanent spray booth setup. I've been meaning to set something up for years. With spraying, it's the setting up, preparing and cleaning up afterwards that's downside for me. I don't really get on with aerosols (though with this build I have some custom-brewed rattlecans for the livery colours which are apparently very good). I am an impatient modeller at the best of times, and having to wait for paint to dry annoys me!

Hi Heather,

Hoping the next set of results work out better for you. If you can stomach an airbrush set up at some point, then acrylic paints will dry in about 10minutes so no long waits. No bad smells and no expensive chemicals to clean. As you say, waiting for paint to dry is annoying indeed. And even better simple plain water is all that is necessary for cleaning. A deep clean will be needed from time to time but there are ultrasonic tanks for that. They're cheap, and you just dump everything in, turn on and come back a little later. Unload - just like a dishwasher

Cheers

Tom

 

[Heather Kay]

Tom, you are right. After this morning's brush experiment, I think I will have to get the airbrush up and running. The time spent trying ideas out has been worthwhile, and while the current version - black on dark blue - doesn't look too shabby, it's still not quite there. It's difficult to gauge how these will appear when fitted inside a coach, though.



The perfectionist in me thinks the results are a disaster. The thing is, it kind of works. The problems, as I see it right now, are these:

• Getting the mask to sit firmly against the seat to prevent paint running underneath and uniformly across the cushions
• Avoiding tiny movements of the mask during painting that smudge the paint already applied
• Getting the pain consistency just right

What I plan to do is complete the basic clean-up and painting of all the seats. I will fabricate a set of masks, to suit the single, double and quadruple sets of seats, which will make it easier to fit and remove quickly. I'll then spend some time in my ersatz spray booth - now the temperature is rising somewhat it will be more comfortable - and crack out the Tamiya acrylics.

 

[Dog Star]

The problems, as I see it right now, are these:

• Getting the pain consistency just right

Brilliant...

....................................................................................................................................................

 

[Dog Star]

Now that I can focus on the screen after the above "pain-relief" I am thinking that an alternative medium might be worth exploring... how about printing the pattern on waterslide paper and covering the castings one seat at a time? Crinkle the transfer? Sorry mate, that is a ruck in the covering.

regards, Graham

 

[Heather Kay]

how about printing the pattern on waterslide paper and covering the castings one seat at a time?

I like your thinking. It's a moot point as to whether waterslide will take as long as masking and painting. It's an impression we're looking for.

I have a mind to temporarily assemble the coach body to see how the current crop of seats appear amid the gloom, before I decide to make my life any more complicated!

 

[Dog Star]

I have a mind to temporarily assemble the coach body to see how the current crop of seats appear amid the gloom...

How about asking Richard what he will do with the weathering? If the carriages are going to be a representation of circa 1980s "filthy" then maybe the windows will be so dirty that the seat colour is (a) influenced by the opacity of the windows and (b) not discernable because of a lack of washing. Ergo, darken the base colour of the seat and forget the pattern.

regards, Graham (who is thinking about painting Mk.1 seats for the late 1980s... were coaches on the west coast of Scotland any cleaner than coaches working Newcastle to Liverpool?)

 

[Heather Kay]

Graham, Mk1 seats are simpler. I got away with the base coat and a quick dry brush for the pattern. I'm not sure how much weathering Richard will apply. From the other finished coaches I've seen, not a lot, probably.

 

[richard carr]

Heather

I haven't really done any to the other coaches yet and I tend to like lightly weathered ones, its fairly rare that coaches were very dirty, most went through the washer on at least a weekly basis.

Personally I think what you have done with seats looks great and will be more than goof enough.

Richard

 

[Heather Kay]

Personally I think what you have done with seats looks great and will be more than goof enough.

Thanks Richard. I had the impression you were waiting for the full rake of coaches before you began weathering, which makes a lot of sense.

I just did a quick "knock-together" of a body to gauge appearance. I think, once glazed, the seats will be more than adequate. Even close-up, sans glazing, you can't really see more than a hint of a pattern.



Guess what I'm doing for the rest of the day.

 

[Ressaldar]

looks good & with a few 'bums on seats' will be even better

cheers

Mike

 

[Heather Kay]

looks good & with a few 'bums on seats' will be even better

Yes, bums on seats would be nice. However, they're not in current spec.

As an aside, is it just me or do all 7mm coach seats seem under scale? I keep looking at these mouldings and thinking a "normal" scale human wouldn't fit in them. Certainly, many of the whitemetal figures I've come across over the years would be impossible to park in these seats without major rear end surgery. Perhaps that's why Slater's Plastikard Peeps are so flat and anaemic.