7mm On Heather's Workbench - the only one left

Loco construction begins
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    A slight hiatus. I needed some replacement castings, and the courage to pick this beggar up again!

    Rather than have fun trying to work out how the valve gear goes together, information for which is still pending from just north-west of Glasgow, I thought I would be better served making some superstructure headway. At least it looks like the build is moving on when I report to the client!

    image.jpeg

    As with many kits, the loco running plate is formed of a cradle and half-etched overlay. Forming the rivets under way. The GW Models press is a bit of overkill for is job, but it is consistent.

    image.jpeg

    As ever, careful attention to filing down etch cusps takes a time. I tinned round all the edges on both parts of the running plate, and after some careful fettling to ensure the etched lamp brackets fitted through their slots, I set about things with the RSU. The end result is a lot tidier than I've managed in the past.

    Surprisingly, the SDK doesn't include cast lamp brackets. I have noticed that 3205 has the front lower brackets aligned along the buffer plank, where the kit has the centre one slightly offset. As I'm trying to match the real thing, I guess I shall have to acquire some cast brackets to do the job properly. In fact, I'll have to rummage in the box again to check I haven't missed them.

    image.jpeg

    The cab floor needed a little attention with a slitting disc to let it sit neatly over the rear splasher fronts. I may yet need to trim some material away. I have cast whitemetal splashers, but you can probably guess they don't fit by a country mile. Happily, the frets include etched parts which I need to form up and solder on. It may be prudent to leave them for a time, until the frames are motorised. I can then check clearances and sideplay more easily.

    And we're back in the room. Finger trouble meant I hit the submit button before I was ready. Apologies if you've read this while I'm editing it!

    image.jpeg

    The buffer plank and rear drawbar are fitted. The drawbar has been etched wrongly, with rivet holes the wrong side of the tender buffer plates. I cut them off, formed the rivets and soldered them back in the right order. This is noted in what pass for the instructions. I've used some milled brass angle to help with fitting, because apart from the running plate there is precious little to hold things in place. On the real thing, there's are cab steps, injector brackets and sandboxes which all help to hold things together. I have taken into consideration the loco frames, so the angle is only fairly short.

    image.jpeg

    The buffer plank is a two-part etch affair. Slots on the rear align with the hanging bars, while the other fixing is along the inside edge of the top of the running plate. Again, brass angle has been used to add reinforcement at the rear of the hanging bar front drop.

    image.jpeg

    Where things had got to earlier today. The cylinder block cover was formed up, again with little help from the instructions, and clips neatly into slots on the running plate. Both this and the cab floor are posed for effect.

    image.jpeg

    I finished the day by sweating in the cab overlays to the folded up carcass. Alternate sides etches are provided, as there were very subtle differences during the prototype production run. Provision is made for sides with no windows, with plated over windows, and with the final form of windows. The kit has etched roof parts, as well as a resin cast roof. I shall make my mind up on which to use in due course, though I'm tending towards the metal parts.

    That's enough for today. A different build tomorrow!
     
    Last edited:
    Fitting the boiler and cab
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Against my better judgment I decided to crack on with the upperworks for another day.

    image.jpeg

    It's beginning to look like a loco instead of a pile of components and subassemblies. Rather than leave it till too late, as usual, I've sorted out the screws to fix the boiler casting to the frames and cab.

    image.jpeg

    The cab window handrails took a bit of a fiddle, but are worth the effort. I made sure to dress off the wire inside the cab. Obviously, there are some fit and finish issues with the boiler and cab to the running plate.

    image.jpeg

    Meanwhile, with the backhead casting, the reverser cabinet, and whatever the handle-and-rod affair is, posed in place, the cab is coming together. The tip-up seats are fitted - and still work! I reckon there ought to be spectacle plate castings, so I'll do a bit of grovelling to JLTRT and see if I can't get some. I shall assume the ones used in other locos will fit. The GWR was standardised, of course.

    The reverser cabinet on 3205 is different to the kit parts, so a little fabrication still to do. The reverser mechanism casting needs to be chopped back, as on the real thing it sticks through the front sheet and has a cover down to the running plate.

    Doesn't seem a lot for two days' work.
     
    Making cab spectacles
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    After what seems like many, many months, 3205 finds itself back in the workbench.

    Readers may recall we left this saga pondering how to replicate the cab spectacle frames. Samples from other kits from JLTRT proved unhelpful, so some kind of scratch building seemed the order of the day.

    image.jpeg

    This is what I started with. The double-skin cab front leaves a recess, into which presumably a simple sheet of glazing material is meant to fit. For a closed cab loco, I could get away with that, but for something open to the rear I felt it needed proper frames. I set the brain cell to work.

    image.jpeg

    Here's what I decided to do. Taking some 0.7mm brass wire, I formed frames to fit the recesses. Doing this, I also discovered that both openings are slightly different sizes. Whether by design or accident, I cannot say. The formed frames were filed to give a flattened front and rear.

    image.jpeg

    Well, that filled the recess, which would allow me to sandwich the glazing, but it still didn't look right. More brain cell activity, while studying photos of the real thing.

    image.jpeg

    The answer eventually arrived. If I were to solder the inner frame to a sheet of thin brass, messily, I could practice my piercing saw work and cut out a larger frame. That's why there's a crater in the middle of the frame, which will be drilled to let me pass the saw blade through. I've already done the first frame, and was so pleased with the outcome I forgot to record the process!

    I only broke two blades, albeit one was fairly well used to start with. Practice makes perfect, they tell me.

    image.jpeg

    Here's a frame, hacked out and tidied up. I found the outer (shorter) edge actually needed to be filed back so the frame would fit the window aperture. This won't show in the finished model.

    image.jpeg

    Of course, some kind of hinge affair was needed. I annealed some more 0.7mm brass wire, then belted the heck out of it to give me a crude strip. More heating so it was workable again, and I could crimp it around some 0.5mm wire. Some deft soldering was needed so the spectacle assembly can still be removed in one unit, since glazing won't happen until after painting. All that remains is for some fabrication to represent the latch handle, and I can call that a job well done.
     
    Backhead construction
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Backhead fittings today. Well, 90 per cent of them. Laurie at JLTRT was really on the ball because what I requested yesterday arrived this morning. Too quick for me, because I've since discovered one or two other bits that would be handy from the other kit list!

    image.jpeg

    I started off with the vacuum brake gear, using the brilliant photos that Mr D took as a guide. I was also lucky to come across a useful works image in photographic grey - of the original lever reverse builds - but handy nonetheless. Items on the fireman's side will have to wait for the correct gauge glass to appear. What I think is the blower valve sits just to the right of the brake. Although it will look busy when finished, the backhead is surprisingly tidy on the 2251s.

    The works image also led me to a useful detail regarding the ATC equipment. On the model, and the preserved loco, the reverser sits on a cabinet. There's no obvious clue what the cabinet is for. The lever reverse version image, though, showed the same sort of cabinet, rotated 90 degrees and up against the side sheet under the ATC battery box and bell. So, presumably, the cabinet is part of the ATC fittings, though I'm not sure what or how. Anyway, while studying that, I was trying to work out how the bell unit was fixed, and it turned out there's a socking great bracket holding it all in place, slap bang over the centre of the cab side window!

    (Forgive me if you knew this already, but this was a moment of epiphany for me.)

    I'll have to fabricate the bracket, and allow for it to be fitted after painting the side of the cab and fitting of glazing. Meanwhile, it was fairly obvious the JLTRT bell casting was a bit blobby, so I've ordered suitable replacement parts from Hobbyhorse. The question remains, and one which will give me endless hours of innocent joy as I peer at numerous photos of Collett Goods, is what kind of pickup apparatus was fitted to these locos? I got the giant bracket in the kit, which fits behind the leading buffer plank. Should be interesting trying to work out what was actually fitted.
     
    Last edited:
    ATC cab fittings
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    While paint was drying on the backhead, I set my brain cell to the task of making an ATC box mounting plate. This was an exercise in mild frustration. The 2251 class had ATC gear fitted from new, but of course it's all been removed on the preserved loco. Intense peering at photos gave me a hint of how it was supposed to be fitted - slap bang over the driver's side window! To be honest, despite a roomy cab, there's nowhere else that would be convenient.

    I was fortunate to have a good clear official photo of either the first of the class, or an early lever reverse loco, which showed the plate and some of the connecting conduit and cable. Out with some scrap brass sheet, some measuring up and some work with the piercing saw. I was quite pleased with the result. Then I discovered my error!

    image.jpeg

    First, here you can see JLTRT's brass sprue for ATC equipment on the right. You can probably see why I have opted for Hobbyhorse Developments' whitemetal offering on the left. In the centre, the MkII mounting plate. I had already butchered the MkI for other uses.

    Now, to the error…

    image.jpeg

    Can you see it? I was working from references for a lever reverse loco. The first ten were so fitted, and subsequently converted to screw reverser to match the new builds. A dry run to help me work out the cable runs, with the screw reverser and cabinet in position, and it's blindingly obvious the ATC gear would be no friend to either the reverser handle or the driver's knuckles. Back to the references to see if I could glean a way out of my error.

    Once you notice the ATC bracket across the window, you can see it in many published images. I had managed to spot it on every image of a lever reverse loco, so I made a point of picking out driver's side images of screw reverse locos. No very clear images, but in one it appeared the mounting plate was up the other way to the lever reverse version. Perhaps the simple expedient of inverting the plate was all that was needed.

    image.jpeg

    Yes, that would work. My MkII plate still needs some refining, but I think it will do. It's fun, this modelling game, isn't it?
     
    Smokebox Saddle Details
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    The fit of the smokebox saddle and cylinder cover had been bothering me. The main cylinder cover assembly is a folded etch, which nestles down into slots in the running plate, fitted with detail overlays. What bothered me was the fact the rear curves didn't quite meet the leading splasher like the real one does.

    I spent some time futzing about trying to fit shim material to fill the gaps, to no good purpose. It was obvious I'd have to make new overlays. So that's what I did today. I'm not quick at scratch building and fabricating, though my skills appear to be improving with regards to measurement and laying out. I've also managed to not break a piercing saw blade for ages, so I must be getting the hang of it!

    image.jpeg

    The fit is much better now, and with a coat of paint the tiny gaps ought to disappear. The assembly is just sitting place, and once I'm ready to actually fix it it'll be nice and neat. The angled row of not-quite-rivets is meant as a guideline for me to fit some cosmetic bolts, which will look a lot better than plain bumps. I need to make some suitable knobs for the lifting hatch, and possibly some better looking hinges, and then I can get on with the rest of the loco - at last!

    Those lamp brackets will be coming off. I have cast ones now. The centre bracket has to be moved back to line up with the outer pair, because a peep at 3205 shows it to be so. The vac pipe sits in a little cutout in the running plate, and would hit the bracket in its current location.

    More fiddling about. It would be nice to just build a kit straight out of the box one day. Actually, no it wouldn't. It wouldn't be any fun at all.
     
    Loco coming together
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    IMG_3676.jpg

    Well, the assembly cradle has been cut away, the hanging bars and steps fitted, and to round off the day I posed the shiny bits on the boiler, the boiler and cab on the running plate and took a snap to send to the client.

    I've decided the resin roof is actually not half bad. It's a lot less bother than rolling the etched one, that's for sure. It actually fits, for a start! Anyway, 3205 is beginning to actually look like a loco and not just a collection of sub assemblies.
     
    Making the boiler fit properly
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    After the Telford hiatus, and last week trying to do some Broad Gauge coaches, it was back to 3205.

    I appear to be coming down with a cold, which is displeasing. I blame our visit to our local GP surgery last week. Those places are always full of ill people.

    Anyway, to ease myself into the week, and not feeling at all in the mood for making the chassis, I decided to do some tidying and repair work.

    image.jpeg

    The firebox didn't seem to sit tidily, and actually had an overhang compared to the half-etched plateau it sits on. I shimmed the base of the two protrusions on either side with some styrene. While I was at it, I repaired some over-zealous grinding I'd done to the rear splasher rebate.

    image.jpeg

    You can just see tiny slivers of styrene glued to the running plate, which fill the former gaps nicely.

    image.jpeg

    Much better.

    image.jpeg

    While I had the glue out, I decided it was worth fitting the boiler details. The bonnet and chimney are still loose, posed for effect here. The handrail needs forming, and that will need my brain functioning better than it does now. There is a whistle box to mount at the top rear of the firebox, but that can wait until I've got the cab in place. I've just remembered I've forgotten the step under the smokebox. I think I can sort that out before I succumb to the snuffles.

    Another slow day, but it seems to be the way I work. I would like to be able to increase production speeds, but it never really seems to happen that way for me.
     
    Last edited:
    Chassis Construction Begins
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    There has been progress, during what is turning into another fractured domestic week. It seems that there's something happening every week to interrupt workbench time.

    image.jpeg

    Anyway, yesterday I assembled and fettled the coupling rods. Yes, most of the day was spent soldering and cleaning up, but I got there in the end.

    Today was all about frames. I've been putting it off as long as I can, because I seem to have developed something of an aversion to mechanical stuff. The basic frames and spacers went together with little fuss. I'm still working towards the No Solder Diploma ;). I also spent a while reconciling the instructions with what was actually in the box as regards hornguides and axlebox bearings. Let's just say the test build for the instructions used different parts, so I'm left wondering how to make a working suspension system with what I have.

    I would like the (a) allow for all axles to be dropped out of the chassis, especially the one with all the eccentrics on it, (b) fit springs to all the axles, (c) fathom how to fit electrical pickups into the fairly restricted space left.

    I am considering Richard Lambert's system of fixing the cast springs using screws. This would allow the wheelsets to be dropped out fairly easily, I hope. To fit suspension springing I shall need to drill and tap all the hornguides, as while they match the prototype photos, the castings haven't been created with springing in mind. As for pickups, I think the usual Slater's plungers will be too obtrusive, and almost impossible to fit in some cases. That leaves arranging wipers of some kind. I hope to have pickups on all wheels, but will settle for the leading pair of coupled wheels, plus all the tender wheels. I am also aware that the client has hopes of the model negotiating stupidly small radius curves, but with everything going on inside the loco frames, I fear it may be impossible to accomplish. It's a silly request anyway.

    Oh, yes, the inside motion. I spent time fettling the slidebars and crosshead castings. With the basic frames assembled, it was time for a trial fitting.

    image.jpeg

    There's something definitely NQLRT going on. Study of the excellent photos provided by Brian D shows what's wrong. The slidebars are JLTRT standard castings for outside cylinder classes. On a 2251 the whole back of the cylinder thing isn't there, just the piston rod gland (?) and slidebars. As you can see, the castings fill the space in between the frames, blocking the valve rod holes. The motion bracket falls in entirely the wrong place on the slidebars, which is forcing the slidebar castings downwards.

    image.jpeg

    The crossheads really should be able to run through the motion bracket apertures, but won't because they're too wide (nice oil boxes cast in the outside). It's a bit of a pickle, really.

    So, what options do I have? Carry on and try to make it all fit seems to be the only way. I think the motion bracket is sitting a bit low. Shifting it up will cure the ill-fitting slidebar parts. The slidebars could be shortened a bit, but that will depend on the connecting rod throw. (Is there a way to work that out from the parts I have?) I have to assume the motion parts will fit without issue.

    I think the first thing to sort out is making a basic rolling chassis, then worry about the complex bits. I might be tempted to throw the loco back in the box and get on with the tender instead!
     
    Tender Construction Begins
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    For now, the loco chassis has been thrown back into the box. The disparity between the instructions and what I have in the pile of parts proved too much for me at the moment. If I want sprung suspension, there's a ton of drilling and tapping to do to the hornguide castings, unless I opt for third party ones. I shall have to commune with the client over that.

    So, how about the tender? That should be a bit simpler.

    image.jpeg

    This is the result of a couple of hour's filing etch cusps. The instructions are fit only for the bin, frankly.

    The text tells me what to do, but the photos don't help. They show a partly assembled inner frame, but no idea how to get there. How anyone thought this form of instruction would be better than the CAD-derived exploded diagrams beats me.

    "Solder pick up scoop onto rear spacer and make up and fit operating gear and stays."

    Not one photo shows that assembly, and the provided works drawings are for the tender body only. It's just as well Mr Daniels got some photos - but wait! The scoop has been removed on 3205 in preservation.

    I'm off for a sulk.
     
    Tender Chassis
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Just another working day. Weekends are very much optional here!

    After having done my housework, I settled at the workbench to see if I could work out how to build the tender without instructions! Happily, OzzyO's build over on RMW held some vital clues, so I rummaged in the spares cabinet for the right kind of bearings for a start. Having found suitable ones in the stash, I felt I could actually attempt to get the inner frame near to rolling today.

    image.jpeg

    Well, not too bad. A couple of errors in the kit, pointed out on t'other place, such as the water scoop mechanism on the driver's side. The knock-on here is the brake weighshaft brackets are etched the wrong way round. Ozzy's solution was to reverse the part. I decided to mark out and drill a new hole in the right place, then plug the errant one later. That way the etched part fitted the frame as the designer intended. It should be note the chassis is designed to have a rigid rear axle, with the remaining pair sprung. It would be possible to engineer a compensated system, but I'm happy to roll with things as they are.

    image.jpeg

    It's looking more and more likely fitting any form of sound and digital control to this model will be all but impossible. The tender body is hollow, but isn't accessible unless some serious surgery is made to the chassis parts. There isn't really anywhere sensible on the loco, with the tiny area around the front axle being about the only spare cavity available. I may have to discuss this with various parties and see what options are open to us.

    Time to give this build a rest and get on with something else for a week.
     
    Tender Scoops and Other Things
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Right, having got so far with one tender and been baulked I turned attention to this beastie once more.

    I managed to fit the water scoop, despite the castings needing a fair whack of tidying up. Next was the vacuum reservoir…

    Only there isn't one in the box. Nor is it listed on the parts manifest. Laurie at JLTRT must be getting a bit fed up with my emails today!

    Time to consider surgery for internal access.

    IMG_3821.JPG

    You can see some wiggly lines scribbled on the main floor. Well, they mark out an area that could potentially be cut out to allow access to inside the tender body once the chassis is out of the way. While I was about it, I considered if it might be possible to alter the resin tender body such that the rear platform could be lifted out for access purposes. I might see if a spare body casting can be sent over.

    So, despite getting some good hours on two builds, today has been a tale of two steps forward and half a step back.
     
    Tender Frames and Bodywork
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    I've been plodding on with the tender bodywork today.

    IMG_3825.JPG

    Here's a better view of the chassis. I've got to fit the axleboxes, and then there's a ton of fiddly stuff like brakes and pipework.

    IMG_3827.JPG

    It's not a lot of fun trying to build something when the instructions are virtually non-existent. It took me a while to figure out how the side frames fitted, how the steps were formed, and where the reinforcing brackets went. It wasn't until I was about to fit the front drag beam that I realised the front steps were cranked inwards!

    (I know. I should have noticed that in the photos, but that's not the point.)

    IMG_3828.JPG

    It's not obvious what some of the etched parts are or where they fit. I think I've fitted the right parts as braces between the frames and steps. There's something nagging at the back of my mind about the water scoop operating mechanism that may or may not fit inside or outside the framing. I do remember it's on the driver's side, but I expect some swearing to occur when it comes to fitting it! In any case, there are several etched parts for which I can find no purpose at present.

    IMG_3829.JPG

    The rear buffer plank went together well. It paid to take my time, ensuring squareness and fit was good.

    IMG_3831.JPG

    This is where I am at present, with the body casting posed on top. Much of the hot soldering has been done, so I can begin to think about the whitemetal castings for the springs and axleboxes.

    Now I come to look at it, I'm quite pleased with progress. I usually feel I take far too long to get anywhere, but things seem to be moving along at a reasonable pace. I suspect it'll all slow down when I get to the detailing.
     
    Tender Floor, aka Swiss Cheese
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Some excellent additions to the set there Mr D. Thank you for sharing!

    I burned some midnight oil yesterday. It was one of those days where things began to go quite well, and I gave Mrs Mojo the time to complete the task in hand while she was in the mood.

    IMG_3833.JPG

    Let's just say the Dremel and slitting disc saw quite a lot of action. The machine got quite warm, and the disc lost a lot of diameter. Why? Read on!

    IMG_3832.JPG

    When a kit is designed but no adjustment allowed for over-scale flanges, some surgery is required to clear things. To be fair, it does actually mention this fact in the "instructions". The variation in the slot shapes is because the rear axle is fixed and only needs side-to-side clearance, while the other two are sprung and need up and down clearance as well.

    IMG_3834.JPG

    Fitting the tender floor and pushing the model along while pressing down on it revealed some clearance will also be required on the floor itself. I've started by using the whizzydisc to create spaces, but it may just end up with more 'oles.

    Oh, yes, I've got the tender on wheels. Did I forget to mention?

    On with the day!
     
    Loco Frames Rise Again
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Back to this build again, and time to consider the loco frames.

    I have, so far, been sitting and considering the loco frames all morning. Somethin' ain't right somewhere.

    Let's assess where I am with this. The client's wishes are for a sprung loco, with the kit pseudo inside motion. I want to be able to let the wheelsets drop out for assembly and maintenance reasons, which will need a little engineering to fit the cast leaf springs with screws. Leaving aside the erroneous slidebars and so on, this ought to be a straightforward build. So why am I finding it difficult?

    Well, for a start, the cast brass hornguides are not designed to be sprung. Secondly, they have a bar across the bottom, which would require cutting out to enable the wheelsets to be dropped out, meaning a keeper plate needs making or procuring. Thirdly, and probably most egregiously, they too small for the etched slots in the loco frames. Finally, they will need some carving about to allow for the inside waggly bits. The cast leaf springs are a little anaemic, but would pass.

    If you're reading this before I've edited it, it won't make much sense!

    IMG_3913.JPG

    I have a JLTRT 8750 kit on the shelf, and on a whim I dug it out to compare the hornguide and spring castings. The lighter castings are from the 2251, the yellower ones from the pannier. I checked the pannier hornguides against the 2251 frames, and they fit nicely. They are also designed for springing. The spring castings include a bracket which attaches to the cast keeper plate. My reasoning, obviously, is to dump the 2251 parts for the pannier parts.

    I'm looking for some wisdom from Thunderers before I make a concrete decision. Is my proposed path of using alternative parts workable?

    IMG_3914.JPG

    Incidentally, having a frame spacer right where a spring mounting is supposed to fit doesn't seem like a clever idea…
     
    Last edited:
    Tender Brake Rigging
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    I'm stuck with 2-rail current collection, plus electronics, for this build. Onwards!

    When the mojo is feeling jaded, or would prefer to be somewhere entirely different, I find it's usually best to not try too hard. I started out this week pondering the loco frames, and decided to purloin the 5700 kit springs and hornguides. Still needing the stamina to actually try and assemble things there, I returned to the tender. I felt that by cleaning up and fettling castings, I might start to make some progress. I could see no reason why the white metal springs and axleboxes couldn't be tidied up and fitted.

    A reason soon came. The castings were rubbish. Some bits were mildly miscast, and the whole ensemble didn't fill me with hope it would look better when fitted. Morosely, I went a-hunting for better castings, feeling that requesting replacements from the manufacturer would probably not end up with anything better than I already had. Happily, Hobbyhorse Developments lists a full set of what I need, under the Reynalds Range. There are also much neater toolboxes there. The lumps that came in the kit have been consigned to the scrap box. I don't think they're even worthy of the Bits Box, frankly.

    So, what next, as I found myself stymied on the frame details? What about trying to work out how the hand brake weigh shaft and scoop lowering mechanism went together?

    IMG_3920.JPG

    Without the aid of any instructions, but careful study of Mr Daniels' photos and Mr Hannah's build on t'other place, I have ended up with something I'm happy resembles the layout of the real thing. I can see some tweaking is required on alignments, but I'm pleased with my efforts.

    To celebrate, I may well set about detailing the bodywork. Brian has added new photos to his Flickr album of 3205, which fortuitously show the tender from above. I think I shall have my work cut out replicating some of the features so revealed. For example, who knew there would be hooks on the bunker rear plate to stow the weather sheet? Or the inside top edge of the side raves was riveted? Some fun photo picking will be required to get things looking right, I reckon.
     
    Tender Bodywork Continues
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Time to tackle the tender side raves. These are etched parts, complicated by the need to bend curves and fix rivet strips inside. Not being happy with gluing brass to brass, I thought I'd have a go with low melt solder and a low temperature setting on the iron.

    IMG_3925.JPG

    Not too bad. Forming the strips is a pain. They're etched over long, and need to be bent in various ways to sit over the cast side details. Happily, the iron at 180 degrees was sufficient to let solder flow without causing irreparable damage to the resin. I need to go back and get some glue down into the side panel and body joints.

    I also had to make a new coal plate. Whether it was just me doing something wrong, or what, the etched parts ended up too short. There is a cast one in the kit, but the least said about that the better!

    Still to do: tool racks, handrails and lamp brackets, plus odd detail castings round the tank filler area. There are also weather sheet posts to make and fit, though I will leave them a while as they will be vulnerable to damage. I've been informed my order of castings from Hobbyhorse has been shipped - I only placed the order this morning (Saturday), so it seems the bits will be here early next week.

    I think I'm happy with this week's progress. Next week, another build takes precedence. I've worked out that a week on a build makes much more progress than my previous "build-a-day" routine.
     
    Last edited:
    Tender Underframe Details
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    Well, it's been a while since I picked this build up. I was thinking I might start to tackle the loco frames again, but I was distracted by the tender.

    IMG_4089.JPG

    You will recall I opted to upgrade the whitemetal castings for Hobbyhorse ones. In this shot, the supplied kit parts are on the left, replacements on the right. I also acquired some replacement spring castings, but on reflection they aren't quite right for this style of tender. They are now safely stored in the Bits Box for when an older tender requires them. Now, I have fettled the Hobbyhorse castings already, but I hope it is possible to see they are a slightly finer finish and have significantly fewer mould lines. The axleboxes are actually deeper than the kit ones, and match the prototype far better.

    Anyway, I was all up for sticking the bits in with the hotting stick, when I decided my time might be better spent finalising the underframe detailing and arranging for electrical pickup.

    IMG_4095.JPG

    The brake rods and stretcher bars are all brass castings. They needed little cleaning up, aside from opening out holes. One of the rods needed a repair as it was miscast slightly. What you can't see here is the first time I put it all together. I was well pleased, pinning all the joints so they still moved about. I went to attach them to the tender, only to find I'd fitted the rods in the wrong order. Obviously, the wheelbase is asymmetric, but it's not immediately obvious. I am using low temp solder for pins, as it means I'm less likely to do harm by poking the iron in the wrong place, so it was a matter of moments to disassemble the ensemble - and then do it properly! To aid aligning the cast brake shoes, I've fitted 3mm lengths of tube over the hanger pin. The jury is still out as to whether I should insulate the shoe faces. I think it might be wise, as spaces are bit tight at times, and with suspension and sideplay it gets a bit close at times.

    IMG_4096.JPG

    More detailing commence. I took the brake rigging back out while I fitted what I haven't quite identified. It's a drain point, or grease trap for some pipework, at least. There's a bracket visible on the real thing - and the trap is a different shape, but let's not worry about that - so a bit of scrap etch came in handy. It's not quite in the right place, but allowing for the different trap it'll do. Two further wires added at the front to represent feed pipes. I may decide to take them back out, as they're not really visible if I am honest, and the power wires to the loco will give the right impression.

    IMG_4097.JPG

    The final step today was to fit some copperclad for wiper pickups. I've roughed out a wiring diagram, too. It rather looks like the only pickup available will be the tender. I may be able to squeeze in some plungers on the trailing (driven) axle in on the loco, but I'm not going to fret if I can't. Time to contemplate arrangements to fit electronics. It's may be some time!
     
    Tender Approaches Completion
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    IMG_4110.JPG

    Well, that's most of the fiddly stuff on top done. The little wooden block to protect the scoop dome from the filler lid is a confection of brass channel and a block of styrene. The fireman's tool tunnel needed some intense peering at photos. There's a pattern of bolts/rivets on the side rave that gave away the location of various brackets for this. On the backs of the toolboxes are some protective sheetwork, the purpose of which I haven't fathomed yet. I need to fit the handrails, steps and lamp brackets on the rear. I also need to repair the front handrail bracket, which is formed from the end of the side rave by twisting it ninety degrees. Something stronger will need to be made up, I think.

    I reckon the axleboxes and springs can go on next. Then I can think about fixing the tender body to the upper floor level. I might get on to the loco this week!
     
    Details, Details
  • Heather Kay

    Western Thunderer
    I've been trying out a "one build per week" regime, but I've decided to try extending things a bit. I need to increase my construction speed, so I'm considering four weeks per build to see if I can get anywhere near Tony G's throughput!

    So, another week on this loco. Well, and the tender.

    IMG_4120.JPG

    I hate fitting buffer housings. Perhaps it's because all the loco ones I've encountered have been barely adequate castings. Either way, I find it a chore to get them aligned and pointing in the same direction! What you can't see here is the bottom right hand bolt head on the left buffer has been ground off, and a hole drilled through to take the coupling storage hook. In real life, the hook is trapped under the bolt, but at this scale no-one will notice. I think a smear of filler is needed for the step slots, and I need to fit the vac pipe - but as the needs the body glued in place it'll be done later.

    IMG_4119.JPG

    Similar work has been done on the front buffer beam. The various detail parts included the vac pipe parking bracket, which saved me some fiddling about. I had to make a scrap etch bracket for the steam heating pipe, though.

    IMG_4117.JPG

    The rest of the morning has been spent fabricating the vac pipe along the fireman's side hanging bar. Not having anything suitable in the Bits Box to represent the pipe flanges, I did a little experiment with 12BA washers. Thinking I would be clever - this only works with the pressed brass kind, mind you - I actually pushed rivets in the washers to represent the bolts. Obviously, as soon as any solder arrived on the scene, that all went out the window, but it was a nice try at any rate. I bought some Finney7 etched brackets at Reading before Christmas, so they've been pressed, literally, into service holding the pipe in place. I chose 1mm brass wire, which is a tad under scale. I think it looks okay now it's fitted. The steam heat pipe, which runs the other side, will be a little thinner, and include the lagging of course.

    IMG_4118.JPG

    You can't quite see it clearly, due to dodgy lighting, but I've added the small pipe that will clip into the vacuum pump isnide the frames in due course.

    There's not much left to do so I can avoid the frames. I suppose I must tackle them now.
     
    Last edited:
    Top