7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)
- Thread starter Pencarrow
- Start date
Mike Walker
Western Thunderer
Ooh, that is nice. Strange that from this angle the pub doesn't look quite so crooked.
Osgood
Western Thunderer
Interesting observation, Mike - I hadn't noticed at first but it looks to me like AI has straightened it up
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
I suspect it thought that a building couldn't possibly have been that wonky and straightened the window in the sharpening process. I may ask it again and reiterate that the rear building really should be wobbly.
smgee
Western Thunderer
What’s interesting, Chris, is that there are other subtle changes. Look at the chimney tops, the flashing round the base, the left end of the roof/gutter, the number of glazing bars. It’s like a spot-the-difference competition!
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Very interesting. I've looked back through the original sequence of images I saved whilst doing the AI thing. It went a bit creative when it gave me an option to sharpen the photo. Looks like sharpen in the AI word means substitute detail that's sharp for the original that's blurred. Proves you have to be really careful...
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
You're better off processing the photo stacking yourself using a good photo editing suite rather than rely on AI.
I use Affinity and have these options.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Unfortunately Dave, the only working laptops in the house are work ones and they can't have non-work software added. Hence everything is done on the phone.
I have tried to find an app for Android but, having tried a couple at the weekend and got very poor results, I gave the AI a go.
If anyone can recommend an Android app please shout up.
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
I think this why I have trouble building layouts. I like to build stock to much.Having done the above this morning and really enjoyed it, it's led me to contemplate my modelling "happy places". I've concluded they are:
Given that list doesn't include stock or operating layouts, I'm beginning to wander if I should just drop the railway aspect
- Planning / research
- Scenics / landscaping
- Making buildings
What are you doing about the distinctive windows and doors?
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Morning Peter,
The rear two windows, those facing the front of the layout, have been made and painted.
The doors and windows on the front will be made up from plasticard. I did make a start on the doors about a year ago, so need to hunt them down.
If I'm not happy with how the sash windows turn out, I also have the option of 3D printing - the Crooked House project has given me several great contacts who can do this.
Hope all is well with you.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Been an interesting day today. Not much in the way of actual progress and lots of rabbit holes.
It became apparent that the green pain I have previously used to represent the colour used by the SR and BR(S) on buildings had either vanished or it was the tin of Humbrol RC405 that was a solid lump. I had a go at mixing something up but it just wasn't right.
1st rabbit hole... Finding the BS colour shades for the actual colours. I knew I had them somewhere. Many books later and they were found in a book about Southern concrete.
2nd rabbit hole... Working out what the Vallejo equivalent of these colours should be. Google with a hint of AI got me there in the end:
1 Light Stone BS381C shade 358 Light Buff = Vallejo 70.928
1A Dark Stone BS381C shade 359 Middle Buff= Vallejo 70.976
3 Dark Green BS381C shade 276 Lincoln Green = Vallejo 70.895
3A Middle Chrome Green BS381C shade 226 Middle Brunswick Green= Vallejo 70.970
4 Light Green BS381C shade 217 Sea Green= Vallejo 70.891
10 Cream BS381C shade 352 Pale Cream= Vallejo 70.918
3rd rabbit hole... Working out which of those I already had. Not as easy as it sounds as I have close to 100 bottles. 70% of which came from the estates of friends who have sadly passed. Half the bottles are in my paint box and the rest (mostly duplicates and colours I'm not likely to use) in an overflow case.
This led to a side quest of going through them all and listing them down. But at least it meant I now knew what I had and that four of the six colours were not in the collection. I now also know I will never have to buy a pot of Ivory colour as I seem to have five already...
Final rabbit hole... Finding someone who had the missing paints in stock, at a sensible price and without extortionate postage.
That game has now been played and the paints (plus other bits) are arriving on Monday. I do however feel more organised, if not further along....
Oh, the doors I found in the week have been adjusted to fit the openings.
Right, where's the next rabbit hole??
It became apparent that the green pain I have previously used to represent the colour used by the SR and BR(S) on buildings had either vanished or it was the tin of Humbrol RC405 that was a solid lump. I had a go at mixing something up but it just wasn't right.
1st rabbit hole... Finding the BS colour shades for the actual colours. I knew I had them somewhere. Many books later and they were found in a book about Southern concrete.
2nd rabbit hole... Working out what the Vallejo equivalent of these colours should be. Google with a hint of AI got me there in the end:
1 Light Stone BS381C shade 358 Light Buff = Vallejo 70.928
1A Dark Stone BS381C shade 359 Middle Buff= Vallejo 70.976
3 Dark Green BS381C shade 276 Lincoln Green = Vallejo 70.895
3A Middle Chrome Green BS381C shade 226 Middle Brunswick Green= Vallejo 70.970
4 Light Green BS381C shade 217 Sea Green= Vallejo 70.891
10 Cream BS381C shade 352 Pale Cream= Vallejo 70.918
3rd rabbit hole... Working out which of those I already had. Not as easy as it sounds as I have close to 100 bottles. 70% of which came from the estates of friends who have sadly passed. Half the bottles are in my paint box and the rest (mostly duplicates and colours I'm not likely to use) in an overflow case.
This led to a side quest of going through them all and listing them down. But at least it meant I now knew what I had and that four of the six colours were not in the collection. I now also know I will never have to buy a pot of Ivory colour as I seem to have five already...
Final rabbit hole... Finding someone who had the missing paints in stock, at a sensible price and without extortionate postage.
That game has now been played and the paints (plus other bits) are arriving on Monday. I do however feel more organised, if not further along....
Oh, the doors I found in the week have been adjusted to fit the openings.
Right, where's the next rabbit hole??
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Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Out of curiosity I asked the Google AI to assess the colour choices and revise the assessment for 1:43 buildings (taking colour scaling into account). It came out with the following advice:
BS 358 Light Buff (70.928): In 1:43 scale, Vallejo 70.928 Light Flesh may look a bit too "pink" for a building facade. For a more realistic "Bath Stone" or weathered concrete buff, consider mixing it with a drop of Vallejo 70.837 Pale Sand.
BS 359 Middle Buff (70.976): Vallejo 70.976 Buff remains a solid base. However, for large wall surfaces in 1:43, you may find it looks quite heavy. Adding ~10% Vallejo 70.918 Ivory will help it "pop" under layout lighting.
BS 276 Lincoln Green (70.895) & BS 226 Middle Brunswick Green (70.970): These are often used for doors, window frames, or ironwork. Vallejo 70.970 Deep Green is excellent for "Brunswick Green" machinery or trim, but since building trim is often glossier in real life, you might want to use a Satin Varnish over these to differentiate them from the matte masonry.
BS 217 Sea Green (70.891): This is a cool, muted green often found on mid-century industrial or municipal buildings. Vallejo 70.891 Intermediate Green is a good match, but at 1:43, it can look a bit "forest-like." Lightening it slightly with a pale grey (like Vallejo 70.990 Light Grey) will make it look more like a faded exterior paint.
BS 352 Pale Cream (70.918): As noted previously, Vallejo 70.918 Ivory is very close to white. For a building’s cream trim (like a 1930s seaside villa), Vallejo 70.819 Iraqi Sand or a mix of Ivory and a tiny amount of yellow is often more convincing.
Interestingly the advice to lighten colours matches what I normally do anyway, but as a wash afterwards to knock the colour back a bit. I do find quite a lot of standard "accurate" railway colours to be too in your face.
BS 358 Light Buff (70.928): In 1:43 scale, Vallejo 70.928 Light Flesh may look a bit too "pink" for a building facade. For a more realistic "Bath Stone" or weathered concrete buff, consider mixing it with a drop of Vallejo 70.837 Pale Sand.
BS 359 Middle Buff (70.976): Vallejo 70.976 Buff remains a solid base. However, for large wall surfaces in 1:43, you may find it looks quite heavy. Adding ~10% Vallejo 70.918 Ivory will help it "pop" under layout lighting.
BS 276 Lincoln Green (70.895) & BS 226 Middle Brunswick Green (70.970): These are often used for doors, window frames, or ironwork. Vallejo 70.970 Deep Green is excellent for "Brunswick Green" machinery or trim, but since building trim is often glossier in real life, you might want to use a Satin Varnish over these to differentiate them from the matte masonry.
BS 217 Sea Green (70.891): This is a cool, muted green often found on mid-century industrial or municipal buildings. Vallejo 70.891 Intermediate Green is a good match, but at 1:43, it can look a bit "forest-like." Lightening it slightly with a pale grey (like Vallejo 70.990 Light Grey) will make it look more like a faded exterior paint.
BS 352 Pale Cream (70.918): As noted previously, Vallejo 70.918 Ivory is very close to white. For a building’s cream trim (like a 1930s seaside villa), Vallejo 70.819 Iraqi Sand or a mix of Ivory and a tiny amount of yellow is often more convincing.
Interestingly the advice to lighten colours matches what I normally do anyway, but as a wash afterwards to knock the colour back a bit. I do find quite a lot of standard "accurate" railway colours to be too in your face.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Here's another hole for you Chris: Old lead paint pigments faded in surprisingly different ways... and I bet you won't find any of that on AI any time soon (if ever?) - unless anyone has accurately described specific regional railway shades before!!
Beware listed BS numbers - even in respected tomes on the subject, as I have found examples where supposedly different shades were in fact identical, whilst others were just about as far away from any "official" description as they could possibly go!
Sorry! I can't help, as I used to mix all my Southern and Western Region colours to match genuine paint samples... but in Humbrol paints.
Vallego shades are a mystery to me, so I think you might have to go with your own instinct there!
Pete.
Beware listed BS numbers - even in respected tomes on the subject, as I have found examples where supposedly different shades were in fact identical, whilst others were just about as far away from any "official" description as they could possibly go!
Sorry! I can't help, as I used to mix all my Southern and Western Region colours to match genuine paint samples... but in Humbrol paints.
Vallego shades are a mystery to me, so I think you might have to go with your own instinct there!
Pete.
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Colour is an absolute minefield Pete and there's various folk who get quite animated about it. I'm using the Vallejo shades as a starting point from which the colour will be faded and finishings distressed to suit the period.
It's very difficult to buy paint remotely and judge if you have roughly the right colour. There's a Vallejo leaflet with all the colours on but they seem to vary from the colours I do have. That will be either/ and/ or the scanning, saving, printing and screen colour differences. And then there's the question of what do I match it too... Books, photos on the web? All have variances in reproduction etc.
In the meantime I'm distracting myself with microstrip...
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Great article on SEMG here on SR painting and colours: Southern Paint