73080 - Merlin



It was of Templecombe I believe, some remains of it were in one of the other attic rooms of the 'Big House' when I joined in 1985. One of the reasons it foundered was that it was 18mm gauge not 18.2.I think this was part of an early YMRG layout based on Radstock - dad may remember, @Stevers may well be too young, the '70s anyway, don't ask me which end of the decade, but I assume the tender is roughly the same age as me, so mid-40s.
It was of Templecombe I believe, some remains of it were in one of the other attic rooms of the 'Big House' when I joined in 1985. One of the reasons it foundered was that it was 18mm gauge not 18.2.
The coupling is of 'Yeovil' pattern developed by Bob Alderman. It works on a similar principle to the AJ, but I reckon looks easier to fit. It's documented in Section 9.1.1 (3) of my EMGS manual, which states that Doug Fairhurst has the manufacturing and marketing rights for all 'Yeovil' products.

Is the coupling available anywhere?It was of Templecombe I believe, some remains of it were in one of the other attic rooms of the 'Big House' when I joined in 1985. One of the reasons it foundered was that it was 18mm gauge not 18.2.
The coupling is of 'Yeovil' pattern developed by Bob Alderman. It works on a similar principle to the AJ, but I reckon looks easier to fit. It's documented in Section 9.1.1 (3) of my EMGS manual, which states that Doug Fairhurst has the manufacturing and marketing rights for all 'Yeovil' products.
Is the coupling available anywhere?
I have just had a scoot through the EMGS stores on the website and, whilst in the couplings section there are components for the traditional AJ coupling and plenty for three link and screw couplings there is no reference to the Yeovil (or anything similar).
Nigel
A quick Internet search shows that nickel silver has a greater tensile strength than phosphor bronze.If it is - which I doubt - it would be (as implied by the EMGS manual - Doug Fairhurst was the stores officer for years), via the EMGS. Bob died in 2020, and had been in 7mm for decades at that point. In better material, phosphor bronze, maybe(?), the idea was sound enough. I'm not sure what the other 'Yeovil' products were.
Adam
Stainless Steel might be even better, same sort of cost as N/S or P/B.These couplings might be the solution if they were available (and in nickel silver)
Stainless Steel might be even better, same sort of cost as N/S or P/B.
I'd be interested in using them for Verwood goods stock as I can't bring myself to use Kadees for those. If one could be sent to me I could draw up suitable artwork.
Best to bear in mind that the hooks do have to be bent to shape and that if they are too long and slender you would get the same issues as making them out of spring steel wireStainless Steel might be even better, same sort of cost as N/S or P/B.
I'd be interested in using them for Verwood goods stock as I can't bring myself to use Kadees for those. If one could be sent to me I could draw up suitable artwork.



Very nice. Funny, I remember the one I converted to P4 was an absolute sod to do!A bit of run of the mill modern finescale now. What was sold - quite wrongly, it turned out - as a non-running Heljan AC Cars railbus, rewheeled to EM. Anyone familiar with Yeovil's railways will probably be aware of the short workings between Town, Junction, and Pen Mill stations which were handled by various forms of auto or push pull stock with Brighton D1s, LSWR O2s, M7s, a range of panniers and 14xx before latterly these railbuses, made redundant by the closure of the line from Cirencester to Kemble turned up and served until the withdrawal of the services and the closure of Town station. We have an Anbrico one, but I rather wanted my own, it'll serve the limited demands of Ilchester's passengers perfectly well.
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Conversion was relatively simple - thanks dad (and the EMGS for the instructions) - and just a matter of resolving sideplay and sorting out clearances. Naturally, this meant taking all the underframe detail off. That sounds more conscious than it was: most of it fell off.
Anyway, here we are. It runs, and I have bagged up all the bits. The next thing to do is to paint the wheels before the frames go back on and adding better mechanical fixings to the bits that have come off.
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Adam



