Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
Superb modelling as ever, puts mine to shame.
Alan
Alan
7mm Rob's Rolling Stock Workbench
- Thread starter Rob Pulham
- Start date
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I must have been intuition, when I was taking the photo's I thought to myself I bet Graham asks about chains for the caps - uncanny!
Sorry I missed this yesterday - I was too busy thinking, I knew you would ask that!
Yes it's a Class B. When Christopher bought me the Slaters kit he bought me a set of Class B transfers to go with it. Me not really knowing much about the details of such things at that point (not that I know too much more now
) built it as a Class A. So it has languished in primer for over a year while I Cynric to the rescue, I spied amongst the transfers he was clearing out a set for a Class A. So this and Ruston's scratch build on RMWeb gave me the jolt to have a go with this.
I have also continued painting various van's etc. in the background so photo's soon on those.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Tell you what, you decide on the answer and then I shall know what to ask. Simples!
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Here are some I made earlier - when I first thought of scratch building one of these, I had a go at making up shackles for the cables. I also had a go at splicing some loops in some brass picture wire - that wasn't too successful 
So a bit more thinking on that one is required.
The idea of the threaded end is to make a C shaped bracket that will solder to the back of the solebar with the square part passing through the top of the C and the threaded part passing through the bottom and allowing the cables to be tightened around the tank once all is in place - it may also make adding the transfers easier too. But it all theory until I get around to putting that bit together.
So a bit more thinking on that one is required.The idea of the threaded end is to make a C shaped bracket that will solder to the back of the solebar with the square part passing through the top of the C and the threaded part passing through the bottom and allowing the cables to be tightened around the tank once all is in place - it may also make adding the transfers easier too. But it all theory until I get around to putting that bit together.
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
Splendid work yet again Rob, hope you can make it to Ponty on Sunday. If you can could you bring one of the anchor pins with you for me to have a good look at, I am in the process of scratching some tanks and the pins may be what I am looking for.
Alan
Alan
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham, it's 1mm square Nickel that I got from Eileens. I hadn't realised but I had some 1mm square brass in stock which I used for the end caps that I could have used instead - but I only discovered it the other night when making the discharge pipes
.The slight down side to the nickel is that it wasn't straight. I would have said it came off a coil but I don't think that was it either (a bit too thick to coil). Not sure but it wasn't as straight as you would expect.
To make the C section I have some rectangular tube that I plan to cut a length off and then drill either side to take two eye bolts then finally cut it in half to make the C sections. I will post some photo's when I get there.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Alan, I will if I come but it's not looking good at the moment, I finally succumbed to the 'man flue' or what ever today (I have been fighting it off since Sunday morning) and stayed in bed until thinking of work made my headache worse so I got up.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Rob,
brilliant work - hope that your eyes take the starin as well.
cheers
Mike
Thanks Mike, just wait until you see the delights I have for you later
. It might be small but I find it very therapeutic, it completely stops me thinking of work.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Especially for Graham. I had a go at the retaining chains for the discharge caps.
Initially I tried to make some fine chain by creating my own loops. I did this by gripping a piece of 0.8mm wire in a pin vice and then winding a piece of 0.3mm wire tightly around it spring fashion. I then cut each coil into an individual ring. I then linked about 8 together soldering each link to stop them dropping apart (they were coming apart as fast as i could attach them initially
).
Once I had about 8 links I realised that it wouldn't be fine enough. Then as I was digging out the eye bolts and shackles that I made earlier I came across a length of fine chain.
Armed with this my first attempt was to turn down the head of a brass pin so that it was small enough not to obscure the square head of the cap. This I achieved but the pin wouldn't go through a link of the chain - don't I wish that I had checked before filing the head down.
Next I had the bright idea of using a scale hardware rivet 0.8mm head 0.4mm shank - perfect, it fit through the chain and the head was small enough without any further attention.
I drilled a hole in the end of the square cap head and attempted to solder in the rivet and chain. I ended up with 3 or 4 links of the chain filled with solder.
So pondering this I diverted my attention to the other end of the chain and started by threading one of the rings that I had made initially through the other end of the chain which I then attempted to solder to the tube adjacent to the cap. Not much doing with this either. I have a really fine pair of stainless steel tweezers which I was using to hold the ring and chain, I gave up after soldering them to the chain for the 4th time.
That's when the idea of a small bracket to hold the chain came to me. I looked in the scrap box and came up with a small rounded end etched strip with a hole in it. I chopped it off to the right size and managed to solder it to the pipe. So I slipped the ring on the end of the chain through the hole in the bracket and hey presto!
While it was successful the chain was very short but I had perfected the technique. I also realised that I had soldered it in the wrong orientation too. I had soldered it opposite the tap when in reality the tap hangs at an angle which left the bracket with eh chain protruding from the side at an odd angle when the whole piece was put right way up.
But buoyed by the success I did the other end using a different pair of tweezers and a wood chisel to cut through the chain without distorting half the links. Once I was happy with that end, I unsoldered the other end, cut a new piece of chain, soldered in a rivet and had it complete in no time.
Now I have bored you to death with the monologue here are the pictures - I think that it was worth the effort.
I just need to glue the rivets into the holes in the ends of the caps now - I have had quite enough of trying to solder them in.
Initially I tried to make some fine chain by creating my own loops. I did this by gripping a piece of 0.8mm wire in a pin vice and then winding a piece of 0.3mm wire tightly around it spring fashion. I then cut each coil into an individual ring. I then linked about 8 together soldering each link to stop them dropping apart (they were coming apart as fast as i could attach them initially
).Once I had about 8 links I realised that it wouldn't be fine enough. Then as I was digging out the eye bolts and shackles that I made earlier I came across a length of fine chain.
Armed with this my first attempt was to turn down the head of a brass pin so that it was small enough not to obscure the square head of the cap. This I achieved but the pin wouldn't go through a link of the chain - don't I wish that I had checked before filing the head down.
Next I had the bright idea of using a scale hardware rivet 0.8mm head 0.4mm shank - perfect, it fit through the chain and the head was small enough without any further attention.
I drilled a hole in the end of the square cap head and attempted to solder in the rivet and chain. I ended up with 3 or 4 links of the chain filled with solder.
So pondering this I diverted my attention to the other end of the chain and started by threading one of the rings that I had made initially through the other end of the chain which I then attempted to solder to the tube adjacent to the cap. Not much doing with this either. I have a really fine pair of stainless steel tweezers which I was using to hold the ring and chain, I gave up after soldering them to the chain for the 4th time.That's when the idea of a small bracket to hold the chain came to me. I looked in the scrap box and came up with a small rounded end etched strip with a hole in it. I chopped it off to the right size and managed to solder it to the pipe. So I slipped the ring on the end of the chain through the hole in the bracket and hey presto!
While it was successful the chain was very short but I had perfected the technique. I also realised that I had soldered it in the wrong orientation too. I had soldered it opposite the tap when in reality the tap hangs at an angle which left the bracket with eh chain protruding from the side at an odd angle when the whole piece was put right way up.
But buoyed by the success I did the other end using a different pair of tweezers and a wood chisel to cut through the chain without distorting half the links. Once I was happy with that end, I unsoldered the other end, cut a new piece of chain, soldered in a rivet and had it complete in no time.
Now I have bored you to death with the monologue here are the pictures - I think that it was worth the effort.
I just need to glue the rivets into the holes in the ends of the caps now - I have had quite enough of trying to solder them in.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Now that is booootiful!
I like the description of how you got from a friendly prod to a final result and a result that is so pleasing.
You now have a way of emulating a small detail on Diamond Jubilee, after all you are doing an A3... an un-named one at that. I am referring to the chain attached to the access door for the fulcrum lever pivot. Maybe Richard can favour us with a picture?
Well Done, regards, Graham
I like the description of how you got from a friendly prod to a final result and a result that is so pleasing.
You now have a way of emulating a small detail on Diamond Jubilee, after all you are doing an A3... an un-named one at that. I am referring to the chain attached to the access door for the fulcrum lever pivot. Maybe Richard can favour us with a picture?
Well Done, regards, Graham
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Thanks Graham, I have a few techniques stored up from this one that I will use for lots of other adventures. Especially not bad from my point of view as my head really hasn't been in it this week. I seem to think it was Richard who referred to WT as helping keep his sanity - bizarely this has helped mine this week.
Dikitriki
Flying Squad
Hi Guys
Graham, I think this is the picture you are referring to....
You can just see the chain through the vac hose. It's made from 2 strands of soft brass wire, about .35mm diameter, just wound tightly together. One end of the both strands is fed into a chuck, the other held in a pair of pliers, and the chuck twisted by hand until the required tightness of the 'links' is achived. the eye is farly easily fooled into thinking you're looking at separate links.
WT is still keeping me sane. I have only 5 days left of my 10 hour a day, 7 day a week work schedule, and I value the ability to drop in every hour or so in a break to see what my online mates are up to.
Cheers
Richard
Graham, I think this is the picture you are referring to....
You can just see the chain through the vac hose. It's made from 2 strands of soft brass wire, about .35mm diameter, just wound tightly together. One end of the both strands is fed into a chuck, the other held in a pair of pliers, and the chuck twisted by hand until the required tightness of the 'links' is achived. the eye is farly easily fooled into thinking you're looking at separate links.
WT is still keeping me sane. I have only 5 days left of my 10 hour a day, 7 day a week work schedule, and I value the ability to drop in every hour or so in a break to see what my online mates are up to.
Cheers
Richard
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
Looks smashing Richard. I use the same technique for door chains and brake pin chains on wagons.
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
Aha! the truth is out, and heres me trying to fine extremely fine chain without going to the jewellers and paying through the nose for some fine silver chain.
Alan
Alan
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Thank you Richard, that is just the picture. Whilst your second photo may be "better" I like the first picture because of the greater presence of DJ - and lots more to see and enjoy.
When are you going to change the nickel spacer block, in the end of the slidebar, for one made of brass? Just Like The Real Thing.... honest, guv!
regards, Graham
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Hi Richard, thanks for posting this - it's aways nice to look at your A3
.I did try a variation of that technique that I have used successfully before on wagon brake for the pins through the brake lever. I did similar with the chuck but using brass pins to create the links (and I missed that bit out of my treatise above) but for what ever reason I just couldn't get it to look right so I carried on bashing my head until I got there.