Simon
Flying Squad
Embryo G1 Garden line
As regards springing, in G1 the Slaters kit is designed to be sprung on all wheels, (which is my favoured approach in my scale anyway) but I cut down their springs (and epoxied them on to the top of the axleboxes for security) if you don't reduce their springs you get a horrible bouncing effect and a dodgy ride height. I also made sure the axleboxes were easily able to move up and down the hornguides and this involced fiddling with bits of plastikard to improve the rather poor fit of the Slaters components at this point.
The problem with the middle wheelset was sideplay, or the lack of. I initially cut off the axle ends to let the wheels slop a bit, but this wasn't enough. What I did last week was to take the wheels out, remove the axleboxes and then carefully file down the face of the brass bearings on both sides to allow the wheelset a bit more lateral movement, this seems to have worked although I haven't tried to run it through on "Pomparles Siding" yet - which is a very sharp curve and a pretty tough test.
Weightwise, I haven't added any, other than my odd use of copper wire instead of plastic and the wagon is probably a little light as a result when compared to my other wagons. I generally try to keep things fairly light but once I start running trains properly then may find that things need extra weight, in which case (for the milktank) I will be carefully gluing suitably shaped lead flashing up under the sections of floor that sit on the chassis.
Going back to the springing, I aim for a situation where there is some movement upwards "against" the spring and the axle can easily drop down away from the spring but not under pressure from the spring, if that makes any sense :scratch:
Another thought, in order to make the outer wheels removeable you also have to make part of the brake rigging "unclippable" so that the wheels can be released - but this is a relatively simple job (well it was in 1/32 :lol: )
Phill Dyson said:Hi Simon :wave: , what did you do with the middle axle on your milk tank ? , I'm not sure whether I will spring the centre axle on my 7mm ones or have it floating . Did you add much weight to it too ?, with the open chassis I suppose all you can do is add weight to the tank :scratch: .......with other wagons I usually add weight under the floor to keep the centre of gravity low
Phill
As regards springing, in G1 the Slaters kit is designed to be sprung on all wheels, (which is my favoured approach in my scale anyway) but I cut down their springs (and epoxied them on to the top of the axleboxes for security) if you don't reduce their springs you get a horrible bouncing effect and a dodgy ride height. I also made sure the axleboxes were easily able to move up and down the hornguides and this involced fiddling with bits of plastikard to improve the rather poor fit of the Slaters components at this point.
The problem with the middle wheelset was sideplay, or the lack of. I initially cut off the axle ends to let the wheels slop a bit, but this wasn't enough. What I did last week was to take the wheels out, remove the axleboxes and then carefully file down the face of the brass bearings on both sides to allow the wheelset a bit more lateral movement, this seems to have worked although I haven't tried to run it through on "Pomparles Siding" yet - which is a very sharp curve and a pretty tough test.
Weightwise, I haven't added any, other than my odd use of copper wire instead of plastic and the wagon is probably a little light as a result when compared to my other wagons. I generally try to keep things fairly light but once I start running trains properly then may find that things need extra weight, in which case (for the milktank) I will be carefully gluing suitably shaped lead flashing up under the sections of floor that sit on the chassis.
Going back to the springing, I aim for a situation where there is some movement upwards "against" the spring and the axle can easily drop down away from the spring but not under pressure from the spring, if that makes any sense :scratch:
Another thought, in order to make the outer wheels removeable you also have to make part of the brake rigging "unclippable" so that the wheels can be released - but this is a relatively simple job (well it was in 1/32 :lol: )
.....your line looks a lot less soggy than mine does at the moment :laugh: 
. Ok i'll get me coat 
