magmouse
Western Thunderer
I'm a couple of steps further on - I've bent up new support brackets for the ramp extensions, using 0.5 x 1.5mm brass strip, and a 3D printed jig.
Step 1:
Step 2:
I soldered the part together where the strip meets itself, and cut the surplus off, ready for the next one. The radius of the bends is really a bit too large, despite annealing the brass to soften it - there's a limit to how tight it wants to bend. The 0.5 thickness is to scale, however. I experimented with filing a triangular groove across the strip at the bend points, but then I got a bend with almost zero radius. I decided the oversized curve was my preferred compromise.
Having made eight, I discovered all but one was slightly too large on one side, so I had to unsolder them, re-bend a corner to tighten it us a little, re-solder and trim the end. All in all, a bit of a faff, and probably a good two hours work, including drawing up the jig - all for eight of these:
My thoughts then turned to positioning the brackets. The need to fit snuggly either side of the buffers guide base, and I don't want to fit the buffers until after painting, as they'll get in the way of painting the ramps and brackets. So, to position the brackets, I've printed another jig:
The pin goes in the hole in the headstock where the buffer will fit, and the block defines where the brackets should sit:
I haven't yet fitted the brackets - I'm nervous that if I try soldering them, the joint in the bracket will come undone, and they will spring open slightly. I used 188 solder on the brackets, so I could use 145 to attach them, which might work, but the headstock and everything attached to it make for a substantial heatsink. The alternative is to glue them on with epoxy once all the soldering work is done.
So, with the thought of finishing the soldering work, I attached the triangular plates under the corners. Of course, having moved the solebars in by 0.5mm, and reduced the size of the bottom flange of the solebars, the angle of the etched plates in the kit was wrong, so that needed adapting. Once soldered on, I filed the plates thinner, closer to the scale thickness:
I can't quite believe how long it's taken me to prepare 12 parts and attach 4 of them. This wagon is a complete time sink....
Anyway - onwards!
Nick.
Step 1:
Step 2:
I soldered the part together where the strip meets itself, and cut the surplus off, ready for the next one. The radius of the bends is really a bit too large, despite annealing the brass to soften it - there's a limit to how tight it wants to bend. The 0.5 thickness is to scale, however. I experimented with filing a triangular groove across the strip at the bend points, but then I got a bend with almost zero radius. I decided the oversized curve was my preferred compromise.
Having made eight, I discovered all but one was slightly too large on one side, so I had to unsolder them, re-bend a corner to tighten it us a little, re-solder and trim the end. All in all, a bit of a faff, and probably a good two hours work, including drawing up the jig - all for eight of these:
My thoughts then turned to positioning the brackets. The need to fit snuggly either side of the buffers guide base, and I don't want to fit the buffers until after painting, as they'll get in the way of painting the ramps and brackets. So, to position the brackets, I've printed another jig:
The pin goes in the hole in the headstock where the buffer will fit, and the block defines where the brackets should sit:
I haven't yet fitted the brackets - I'm nervous that if I try soldering them, the joint in the bracket will come undone, and they will spring open slightly. I used 188 solder on the brackets, so I could use 145 to attach them, which might work, but the headstock and everything attached to it make for a substantial heatsink. The alternative is to glue them on with epoxy once all the soldering work is done.
So, with the thought of finishing the soldering work, I attached the triangular plates under the corners. Of course, having moved the solebars in by 0.5mm, and reduced the size of the bottom flange of the solebars, the angle of the etched plates in the kit was wrong, so that needed adapting. Once soldered on, I filed the plates thinner, closer to the scale thickness:
I can't quite believe how long it's taken me to prepare 12 parts and attach 4 of them. This wagon is a complete time sink....
Anyway - onwards!
Nick.
