Lightening the load

GrahameH

Western Thunderer
Sorry Grahame, there was an activity overlap going on there!

Lovely boats! I'm afraid I never got round to finishing my own little version of a classic "sprittie"!

Pete.

No problem Peter, very much enjoying your build and done in a similar way to the ones I produce.
Having never built a boat of any description prior to these I found it the best way for me plus learning how to steam and bend ply !
( Cost me a new kettle !!! ) .
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Seriously folks, thanks Heather for posting that super pic. When it comes to making the full blown plasticard version I'm going to have loads of fun trying to make the hull skin as bad as the prototype?!!

Thanks Tom for that pic as well. I don't know who thought it was a good idea to rather inappropriately apply the name "Spitfire" to a lumpy, dumpy, Thames lighter?!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Once happy with the shape of the framework, it was time to add the skin.

A heavy paper/thin card would be ideal, being flexible enough not to risk causing distortion to the still fairly flimsy structure, while the material would be thick enough to measure and draw more pencil guide lines on the completed hull for the later platework and rubbing strakes.

Working on a backlit board, the small amount of light showing through allowed me to mark out and cut an over size shape in the sheet, thus reducing the amount of material and any bending resistance. It would be a relatively straightforward job to trim all the excess material back to the sheer, run and chine angles after fitting.

uzSAM_6525.JPG uzSAM_6527.JPG

Doing one side at a time, and when the "flat" centre sections were sufficiently firm after gluing, the difficulty of evenly holding the skin down all around the curves while they set was eased by running a short length of dowel underneath and pulling outwards toward the ends with my thumb held firmly over the top to preform some shape.

uzSAM_6529.JPG

The only device needed was some masking tape to apply a bit of tension at the outermost ends.

While the water based adhesive was still wet, but just beginning to set, repeatedly rubbing the hull surface with fingers and thumb slightly stretched and bowed the paper inwards, nicely revealing the frames beneath. The subsequent finish would not only help with later checking and measuring, but also nicely mimics the effect observed on the full size prototype!

uzSAM_6540.JPG uzSAM_6542.JPG

The last act was to add the "budget" - an inverted, drag inducing fin under the after swim, that was absolutely essential on an unpowered (and rudderless) vessel to reduce the tendency to turn broadside when running on the tidal flows.

uzSAM_6535.JPG uzSAM_6534.JPG

I don't think this thing would stand much of a chance in any sort of beauty contest - but am quite happy to admit that I love it nonetheless!

Looking forward to starting work on the proper, pukka, plastic, plated, pocked and patinated version now!!

Pete.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
"Oh!" said my wife, when she came home from shopping, "you've scribbled all over it now!"

"That's the whole point" I replied, but she didn't seem to be that interested in any sort of explanation - probably because she knows full well that the answer would have been far too long winded?!

She is a very patient lady, she has had to be, but there are limits!

Anyway, here is the result of much measuring in the marsh:

uzSAM_6544.JPG

And where the harsh reality dawns: The sad truth is that those lovely graceful lines did look quite pretty in their almost smooth, off white clothing, but the rather brutal plate work, dictated by the structures beneath, does rather draw the eye and spoil it!

There is some consolation, in that on (most of) the prototypes, the vertical joints on the hull plating were butted, and flush rivetted with a strip behind that lay between adjacent frames, while only the long horizontal joint was lapped. That had to be thus anyway, as there would have been gaps in the reinforcement, and an inherent weakness at the perpendicular crossing point with each frame. The lapped joint was always upper plate over lower, and commonly joggled to set flush, with the resulting bulge usually covered over with a half-round, or other deep moulding - presumably to act as an additional stiffener?

As usual, there always appear to be exceptions to the rule - as can be seen in the rather splendid example below, taken in 1937...

uz b_1937 Wapping New Stairs.jpg
(Image reproduced for research and illustrative purposes only)

The four joints on the lower three hull plates seem to be far too obvious at the distance viewed from the camera, despite the superb quality of the original negative? Maybe they were lapped also in this case?

Another decision that had to be made was whether to mark out the horizontal joint parallel with the chine, (as in the pic) or curved in line with the sheer, which would be a slightly more attractive, but marginally less representative form?

I opted for the former, while hoping to do the latter in a later, lighter, lighter variant at some time soon...?!!

uzSAM_6546.JPG uzSAM_6545.JPG


The odd plate sizes, and stepping are purely determined by the frame spacing and most likely, economic use of steel stock, lightly drawn in and then checked for scale before committing.

More perplexing was the problem of placing the precious few deck fittings.

All of course have to align correctly with the beams beneath, and while the the types fitted were more or less universal, their precise locations seemed to be simply a matter of whim!

uzSAM_6548.JPG uzSAM_6549.JPG

There are few good enough reference photographs to show them, but in at least one the windlass bits straddle a deck beam - something that I imagine to be slightly strange: I would have assumed that they were more likely to be fitted in between - with straining support shared more evenly between two?? I have drawn it as per the pic, but may well decide to move them forward in the end!

Otherwise, I am fairly happy with how it is turning out.

I already have some plastic sheet to be getting on with, but will have to order several bundles of Plastruct half round styrene, in three jolly sizes, to go twice all round the huge hull, and once round the gaping hold!!

Then the mucky and smelly fun can really start!

Pete.
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
....
As usual, there always appear to be exceptions to the rule - as can be seen in the rather splendid example below, taken in 1937...

I guess that is a load of newsprint?
I worked with a driver who used to haul reels of newsprint down to the Isle of Dogs from where it was transferred onto barges for a cruise up the Thames (to Wapping?).
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
That is a very good question Simon, and thanks for asking.

On the face of it, there is not much wrong with card, indeed, many beautiful models have been made in it for generations! This particular "Proof of concept" model is quite nice, just as it is. I suppose the truth of the matter is entirely down to my own personal preference?

It was always my original intention to build it entirely in plasticard, for three reasons: Firstly, the initial motivation for designing the model was to provide a vessel for the specific purpose of being placed in a "front of layout" location. In such a position, any detail would have to be very fine, but it might also be a bit vulnerable there?

And that leads to the second point: This card "test" piece has had to have extra (and visible) strengthening added - just to ensure it remains absolutely true and square - something that I'm afraid that paper and card alone might not do. Humidity is the great, and almost uncontrollable enemy of paper and card, and it could look truly awful if a model of something representing a huge great, 100 (plus) ton leviathan, sitting on what is supposed to be a soft "mud" berth started to curl it's hull up and show daylight in the middle or at the corners?! Admittedly, plastic is not that much better, but with care in assembly - should be a little more stable and durable. Getting the model drawn up in CAD and etched in metal for a fully soldered construction would be the unquestionable ideal, but would not only be prohibitively expensive, (for what it is, it's size, and bearing in mind that multiple examples will be required!) making it not just way beyond my pocket - but also way, way out of range of my own abilities!!

The third issue that troubled me was that this vessel is one of the "bigguns" - primarily designed for carrying coal, sand and other aggregates, or regularly shifting the City's "rubbish" for dumping on the Essex marshes! As such, they were never provided with hatches, nor any facility to fit them, and were officially referred to as "Open Barges". As such, the fine array of slender, steel ribs will need to be be present - even if not all visible at the same time! I notably overcooked, and reduced the number by half, of those frames on the test model, realising that the skin would need to be kept thin enough not to start fighting back against that "subtle outward curve" in the hull sides! In plasticard, the skin will be almost prototypically thin - and hopefully wobbly, while the myriad of frame angles must do the main structural work?!

Finally, despite what I have been doing with the "Little" engine - albeit in a massive scale with lots of hidden "belt and braces" solutions, I still have a pathological dislike of mixing media in modelmaking - having suffered the despair of seeing so much hard and dedicated work quietly destroying itself as materials with entirely different expansion and contraction behaviours do battle and cause all sorts of problems down the line!!
I just can't get myself away from the notion that, wherever practical, if it has to be paper, then do it all in paper - or at least something with similar characteristics, likewise plastic, metal et al!

Do I really fancy trying to glue any sort of fine, half-round plastic or metal moulding to a paper shelled model - only for it to potentially start pulling the hull out of shape - even if it does take another half a lifetime to do it?!!

Pete.
 

michael mott

Western Thunderer
An interesting answer Pete. I must say in defense of mixing materials though that I have not fount this to be a serious problem in all my years of modelmaking both commercially and for my current hobby work. with one notable exception that ended up costing the client a lot of money.

I built a very complex hospital model prior to all the computer type drawings that are done these days. This model had to be able to be taken apart floor by floor in order to see overlays within the model for planning purposes the entire inside was transparent. It was a 12 story hospital with six people floors and six interstitial areas for all the services, and had two large internal open spaces covered with curved skylights
The outside of the building had to look like the real building which had spandrels of precast concrete with brick infills. The precast concrete had a rounded horizontal elements in pairs above and below the bricks. I accomplished this with short pieces of steel wire glued to the plex and then a heavy primer and all sorts of flecking and colours to represent this spandrel in model form.
The Hospital management wanted to move the model (it was not finished entirely yet) to the hospital for a meeting. it was -40c degrees the day they wanted to move it. I suggested it was not a wise move and that the temperature differences between my shop the outside and the journey bouncing in the back of the truck for 10 miles or so would be problematic for the model.
They did not want to hear my concerns. As you can guess steel and plastic subjected to extreme cold then warm again then cold then warm again, did the nasty deed. All the steel popped off! the repair bill was about $9000
That is however the only time I have had any problems.

Michael
 
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