Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
Much better now thanks and nice work on the wagon too!
Regards
Dan
Regards
Dan
7mm MMP LMS 13 ton Mineral Wagon
- Thread starter farnetti
- Start date
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Most of the 40 or so parts added to the solebars. I was worried about the lack of strength in the W-irons after my earlier problems so to keep me bending them added the side door bangers early. You may see now that I will have to remove one side to get the V hanger rod through. But hey-ho.
I have also subsequently added fillets of solder to beef up the W-irons. I will be looking at this joggle thing more carefully on the 16 ton mineral wagon.
The third photo shows most of the bits to be added for operating the bottom door, brackets, pin, chain and solebar ring. I may have a go at these this evening, but you will also see a couple of dome headed rivets sourced from a model boat website to go through the solebar. Does anyone whether these would be correct or should I file them down to the more shallow ones?
I have also subsequently added fillets of solder to beef up the W-irons. I will be looking at this joggle thing more carefully on the 16 ton mineral wagon.
The third photo shows most of the bits to be added for operating the bottom door, brackets, pin, chain and solebar ring. I may have a go at these this evening, but you will also see a couple of dome headed rivets sourced from a model boat website to go through the solebar. Does anyone whether these would be correct or should I file them down to the more shallow ones?
Attachments
Yes - you definately need to laminate the W irons with solder BEFORE fixing them to the solebars - this is what is intended. There is no way they will be at all weak once you have done this - but it looks from the photos as if they have been joined to the solebars as two etchings rather than soldered together and the edges cleaned up to make ONE unit, prior to fitting - I am guessing this as the cusping on the sides of both layers of the etchings is still visible, indicating that they have not been fully soldered together.
Regards,
DJP/MMP
ZiderHead
Western Thunderer
I'm intrigued by this joggle you mention - I can see half etch lines on the w-irons on my diag 1/108 but I can find no mention of it in the instructions … *scratches head*
farnetti
Western Thunderer
David,
This is no criticism and I did laminate them before fitting. The half etched lines are very close to the slots for part 4** and I didn't make a good job of it, a couple of them breaking in the process. This is down to my lack of skills not yours, I don't see how you could have improved the etch
Ken.
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Hi Jon,
There is nothing in the instructions but it is clearly shown on the chassis-3 pictures. As you can see the slots are very close to the fold lines, the fold should only be 45 degrees each way, definitely not 90.
As in the previous post no criticism of the kit. I'm looking forward to my next couple of MMP builds.
Ken
From the 1/108 instructions " Shape the components for the ‘W’ irons from parts 22, 23 & 24 for a LH unit and parts 21, 23 & 24 for a RH ‘W’ iron." This is shown on the assembly drawings and as Ken says, the fold is only at 45 degrees - same as for the LMS kit being built here. The thinner etched lines are on the outside of the fold whilst the thicker ones are on the inside, to make them less visible. The lines also do not span the whole length of the fold to retain strength. It is the work of seconds in a Hold & Fold tool to form these.
You can clearly see this feature on any close up of a W iron, on any wagon of the period - immediately below the solebar.
Regards,
DJP
farnetti
Western Thunderer
I made the joggle on the LMS wagon W-irons by clamping in the hold and fold and creating the first 45 degree bend then reversing it and trying to make the next using the edge of a ruler. I think a wiser way of doing it may be to make the first bend and leave it in place, clamp a suitable item (hold and fold blade?) under the reverse side up to the other half etch line and then make the second fold. this way everything stays in place and you are not trying to fold the joggle itself.
Ken
Simon
Flying Squad
I think the joggling came in with steel underframes.
As I understand it joggling of W irons was required on all wagons with steel underframes as steel solebars didn't need to be as thick as the earlier timber ones and there was a desire to have interchangeable wheels between wagons of differing constructions.
Simon
Not that I have joggled many myself
As I understand it joggling of W irons was required on all wagons with steel underframes as steel solebars didn't need to be as thick as the earlier timber ones and there was a desire to have interchangeable wheels between wagons of differing constructions.
Simon
Not that I have joggled many myself
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Rather a satisfying day. Quite a lot done to the wagon and I've already got dinner in the oven (Slow roasted pork belly with honey cumin and chili).
First I fitted the small rings, chain, brackets, pins and handles to each each solebar that are for the bottom doors. Hopefully you can see these on the third photo.
Then I fitted the leaf springs to the pockets on each of the axleboxes. I felt it would easier to do this now rather than after fitting the axleboxes in situ. The leaf springs are necessarily a very tight fit in the pocket and a fair bit of filing with a very fine needle file was needed.
The first two photos show the wheels, axleboxes and springs temporarily in place. I think the left hand spring profile looks about right, the right hand one a bit too flat. Will have a tweak tonight.
The whole wagon now has a satisfyingly weighty feel to it. I put it, and the remaining parts on the scales and it came out at 205 grams. The instructions mention the website of a Danish modeller, who also uses working leaf springs and he suggests a weight of 125 grams per axle for wagons, so not far off.
Here's the piccies.
First I fitted the small rings, chain, brackets, pins and handles to each each solebar that are for the bottom doors. Hopefully you can see these on the third photo.
Then I fitted the leaf springs to the pockets on each of the axleboxes. I felt it would easier to do this now rather than after fitting the axleboxes in situ. The leaf springs are necessarily a very tight fit in the pocket and a fair bit of filing with a very fine needle file was needed.
The first two photos show the wheels, axleboxes and springs temporarily in place. I think the left hand spring profile looks about right, the right hand one a bit too flat. Will have a tweak tonight.
The whole wagon now has a satisfyingly weighty feel to it. I put it, and the remaining parts on the scales and it came out at 205 grams. The instructions mention the website of a Danish modeller, who also uses working leaf springs and he suggests a weight of 125 grams per axle for wagons, so not far off.
Here's the piccies.
Ken -
We'll all be round for dinner in a few minutes! Sounds a bit more exciting than pizza & salad - the fare in west Wales this evening.
DJP
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Now that does sound tasty although I'm stumped for something to drink with it … perhaps something dry and a little sharp, slightly fizzy and made from some kind of fruit … apples maybe? They go well with pork
Lay the pork on sliced apples and onions for the final 1/2hr and then deglazed that with a glass of white wine. Had a couple of glasses myself to go with it. Will go to bed later a happy man.
Ken
Unless you fall asleep in the chair or cannot negotiate the stairs after that!
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Today I have tweaked all of the leaf springs so they all match and folded up and fitted the leaf spring bearers to the sole bars. I won't solder the wire that goes through these permanently until I have wrapped the ends of the top leaf around a test piece to make sure all is as should be. As the instructions say, this can't be too tight as the suspension wouldn't work. You can also see the brake levers in the process of being folded and brackets in the background.
farnetti
Western Thunderer
Have spent today cutting and fettling the brake gear in the photo and fitted the 3 link couplings, pins for the springs and keeper plates on the W-irons.
All of the remaining stuff for the brake gear.
Then getting bored with tiny, fiddly stuff cut out and formed the body for my next build, the BR 16 ton wagon. I will put that on a separate post when this is finished.
An interesting site I found for small stuff, http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/home, might help some of you.
Alcazar, you going permanently or for a long holiday, won't get them done over a week or two.
Ken
All of the remaining stuff for the brake gear.
Then getting bored with tiny, fiddly stuff cut out and formed the body for my next build, the BR 16 ton wagon. I will put that on a separate post when this is finished.
An interesting site I found for small stuff, http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk/home, might help some of you.
Alcazar, you going permanently or for a long holiday, won't get them done over a week or two.
Ken
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
This really is a nice build
John
John