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For the record, the layer height was 0.1 and AMS humidity was 6%
The model has definitely printed better in PLA than PETG, there is some banding but generally the iron plates look passable
Support for the flanges is an issue and there is some stringing, probably less than the PETG.
Overall much better, but still not at resin levels of fidelity.
Thanks Martin,@simond
Hi Simon,
You are not going to match resin with FDM, you can only hope to get close. Then decide if you can live with the difference for the lower cost of equipment and user-friendly FDM mess-free working.
But that looks very good. With a 0.2mm nozzle, a layer of 0.1mm is a bit too much. With layers much more than 40% of the nozzle diameter you lose dimensional control. For a 0.2mm nozzle I would suggest 0.06mm or 0.08mm layers.
I think 0.06mm layers would solve the problem with the side flanges. Maybe with a tweak to the CAD to put a slight draft angle on the underside of the flange.
0.06mm layers are going to increase the print time, but not necessarily by a lot. You could use the Height range modifier function to swap to 0.06mm layers for just the layers through the flanges and then back to maybe 0.08mm or 0.9mm elsewhere to save time.
6% RH is good. Are you using silica gel baskets in the AMS?
cheers,
Martin.
Cheers Dave, I think I’d need more inspiration/motivation, but I see where you’re coming from!That one is worth painting and heavily weathering as a rust bucket - where the rust has eaten and split the flanges.


Rob,Simon,
Did you print thst upside down?
Thanks.Rob,
Sorry, missed your note yesterday.
No, on its solebars. I’d need to take the corner plates off to do it upside down
Cheers
Simon
@Rob R @simondLooking at the finish of the top flange, do you have ironing on "all top surfaces" or just "top surface"?

Thanks Martin,
I don’t particularly want to modify the CAD, I’ve already printed a batch of these wagons using the resin printer, but it would interesting to see if similar results are possible with the FDM, as you say, it’s definitely simpler than resin, and it’s somewhat more robust.
cheers
Simon
Thanks Phil,Simon,
Can you do a save as, with a different name and then you can modify it to your hearts content without damaging the original.
It was at times frustrating, but the results were, to my eyes, worth it. Having acquired the FDM printer, I’m playing around to learn how to use it effectively, and to see what the problems and advantages can be. The resin is going to win in some areas, particularly fine detail, and the way the supports can be managed, but the FDM is cleaner, less hassle, and the prints are more robust/less brittle and less likely to warp. Also, materials, it’s possible to print transparent resin, and “rubber” FDM, for example.
Hopefully my observations are grist to the mill for anyone going down the same route.
best
Simon

Like so many things, it may be less about the technique and more about ones knowledge and experience. I've done a lot or resin printing, so it's my go to and generally good first time with maybe an optimisation or two. I end up with a lot of versions, but that's less about printability and more about being unable to resist small improvements. With FDM, of course, it would be back to kindergarten.Just had a read back, the N6 project started late 23, and consistently good wagons were achieved in spring 25.
There were several distractions along the way.
I feel there will be applications where FDM is the optimum technique, and others where 3DP of any sort is just not suitable. Horses for courses, but of course, without trying, it’s difficult to know what’s likely to reward, or frustrate.
Like so many things, it may be less about the technique and more about ones knowledge and experience.
My point was really regarding @simond who has both - so cost didn't come in to it.I suspect it will be more about cost and user-friendliness. An FDM printer capable of printing a 7mm wagon costs £140 (Bambu A1 mini) and can be used on the corner of the kitchen table. Simple FDM printers are available as children's toys. Material costs are minimal. It's likely that an FDM printer will become as common among modellers as a soldering iron.
UV-resin printing is toxic and messy. It requires a workshop area away from living areas, and a means to exclude daylight while handling uncured resin. The results can be superb, but it's not for everyone.
Martin.

I'm not arguing that resin printing is for everyone. The discussion was about which of two technologies @simond had available would be best for the job.Lawrence
There is no doubt at the moment resin prints still has the edge over FDM prints in fine detail, but over the past few years the gap is closing up fast
As martin and others have said, resin printing is smelly, messy and more difficult than FDM printing
With FDM prints, the simplicity of printing especially in the domestic area, coupled with its flexibility and strength is making 3D printing available to far more folk
Advances in both printers and filament as I said is closing the gap as is the strides in better software. I for one gave up on resin printing as it was too fickle especially when temperatures rose, not to say messy and time-consuming
In my mind over the next couple of years both FDM printers and filament will continue to improve, not to say programming of print files will improve, that is until the next jump in technology
John