SimonD’s workbench

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simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Ah, ally.…. Ok. Not steel, not brass…

A quick google suggests that soap turns black at about 400C which is appropriate for annealing ally and brass.

this seems to talk some sense.

www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

Stress Relief Annealing cartridge brass

I have been exploring the subject of cartridge case annealing...well more accurately it is Stress Relief rather then full Annealing temperatures that most reloaders advocate for cartridge case necks. Full annealing of brass (not cartridge cases) when you are working it in the workshop, is...
www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk www.thestalkingdirectory.co.uk

anyway, I don’t think I softened the brass enough.
 
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simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Not looking too shabby.

image.jpg

Just out of the second scrub and ultrasonic wash this evening. Next job will be the beading around the edges of the side sheets, and then the upper sides can be fitted, and then I can sort out the flare “fingers”. Then we’re on the home straight.

The “L” shaped part was a bloody nuisance to assemble, as was its rectangular oppo (hidden) on the nearer side. Not great design. I’d quibble with the supports for the rear deck being adjacent to the rear of the tank. Bit awkward, but easily sorted.
 
jonte

jonte

Western Thunderer
Nice job, Simon.

What method do you have in mind for the ‘fingers’; shaped blobs of solder or aptly shaped sections of scrap brass etch?

Jon
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Thanks Jon,

I shall use wire for the beading. This will involve burnt fingers and bad language, but MrsD is used to it… (and it won’t be her fingers)

once that‘s in place, I think the fingers will provide sufficient basis for a bit of low-melt - I’ll tin the fingers as I fit the beading. Shaping the outside is relatively easy, I might have to grind an old needle file to make a scraper for the inside surface.

Alternatives - there are castings in the kit, and I have the 3D option if it all goes pear shaped.

atb
Simon
 
jonte

jonte

Western Thunderer
simond said:
Thanks Jon,

I shall use wire for the beading. This will involve burnt fingers and bad language, but MrsD is used to it… (and it won’t be her fingers)

once that‘s in place, I think the fingers will provide sufficient basis for a bit of low-melt - I’ll tin the fingers as I fit the beading. Shaping the outside is relatively easy, I might have to grind an old needle file to make a scraper for the inside surface.

Alternatives - there are castings in the kit, and I have the 3D option if it all goes pear shaped.

atb
Simon
Click to expand...

Now there’s ingenuity!

Jon
 
LaScala

LaScala

Member
LaScala said:
Hi Simon,
I happily chanced on this today as I too have an old Springside 45xx, bought on Ebay about 20 years ago as a seriously underdone part build.
Got it finished and running more or less as intended including the as designed Mashima rigidly soldered to the substantial frames.
This has worked OK for many years, the substantial weight aiding current collection even though built rigid.
The reason for current interest is that the half baked motor to frame joint failed and no longer having a massive old school soldering iron, I could not reattach it.
Rather than buy a cheap iron and bodge the drive train, I fitted an Ultrascale gearbox and a new Taff Vale Mashima lookalike.
I have already changed the driving wheels to Slaters as the Springside originals were all permanently wobbly so no issues with axle diametre.
I like your idea of Warren's pony trucks which I may copy ubt will pass on the great work on CSBs.
Click to expand...
This should look very familiar.............
 

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Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
simond said:
Thanks Jon,

I shall use wire for the beading. This will involve burnt fingers and bad language, but MrsD is used to it… (and it won’t be her fingers)

once that‘s in place, I think the fingers will provide sufficient basis for a bit of low-melt - I’ll tin the fingers as I fit the beading. Shaping the outside is relatively easy, I might have to grind an old needle file to make a scraper for the inside surface.

Alternatives - there are castings in the kit, and I have the 3D option if it all goes pear shaped.

atb
Simon
Click to expand...

Plumbers solder is very good for bridging the gaps. The 66/33 leaded version is best and still available, it is what car restorers use for ‘lead filling’ bodywork.

My stick is years old but you don’t need much and it can be ‘wiped’ into shape as it stays plastic a wee bit longer than ordinary solder.

Ian.
 
Phil O

Phil O

Western Thunderer
simond said:
Thanks Jon,

I shall use wire for the beading. This will involve burnt fingers and bad language, but MrsD is used to it… (and it won’t be her fingers)

once that‘s in place, I think the fingers will provide sufficient basis for a bit of low-melt - I’ll tin the fingers as I fit the beading. Shaping the outside is relatively easy, I might have to grind an old needle file to make a scraper for the inside surface.

Alternatives - there are castings in the kit, and I have the 3D option if it all goes pear shaped.

atb
Simon
Click to expand...

Simon,

Have you considered using the ceramic tweezers used by those that vape? They come as both normal and the self closing types. Available from fleabag and amazon.
 
Phil O

Phil O

Western Thunderer
I have a pretty good vocabulary of rude words, when I did the steam tightening of the waterwall header and was shimmying along a lagged pipe and I got myself over a valve sticking out of the lagging and nothing within reach to pull myself forward and unable to reverse due to the valve and my wedding tackle being an interference fit. I shouted out for some help from other members of the gang out on the deck plates, who just stood there laughing and shouting back, my language got stronger and stronger, until I was stringing virtually complete sentences together of very rude words. I still get reminded of it now 50 years later.
 
simond

simond

Western Thunderer
Does anyone have a photo of the dome and water filler on one of these? There is an etch in the kit that fts on the tank top under the dome, and I think it should have rivets around the circumference but none of the photos I've found show the area of interest.

1768292500065.png

the etch in question is shaped like "oO"

any help gratefully received!
S
 
Phil O

Phil O

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon,

I don't have any photos, but I have several different GW tender kits from different manufacturers, if you want me to have a look and see what's what, they are in 4mm, rather than 7mm.
 
K

Kev T

Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
I've never yet annealed a brass sheet. I panic that I'd deform it and waste the part. How do you make sure that the heat is applied without a hot spot and warping the sheet?
Kev
 
G

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Kev T said:
Hi Simon
I've never yet annealed a brass sheet. I panic that I'd deform it and waste the part. How do you make sure that the heat is applied without a hot spot and warping the sheet?
Kev
Click to expand...
Warping is inevitable. The brass has been cold rolled which results in internal stresses that keep the sheet flat. Annealing results in those stresses relieving, which allows the sheet to return to its desired shape. But once the brass is soft, it’s easy to form into shape.
 
SimonT

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Simon,
the lop sided figure of 8 is a little strange as the flange, assuming a .45mm thich sheet of metal, is nigh on a scale inch thick! I haven't sen a dimensioned drawing but would put the flange at 3/16" - 1/4" thick. From my experience the dome always had a riveted flange and some had a flange on the water filler but some didn't. Most of the F7 ones don't. I have no idea if it is down to individual lots and do not intend to spend my remaining time researching!
T'other
 
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